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Discussion Starter #1
I knew it wouldn't be too long before I blew out one of the front shafts on my waggy 44. I could just replace it with junkyard parts, but I may upgrade to some chromo's and some better u joints.
I called my local 4wheel parts and they told me 900 bucks just for the warn shafts without any u-joints. Too rich for my blood :rolleyes:
What is everyone here running?

I suppose the "dream" setup would be Superior shafts and CTM u-joints, but that would be an extremely pricy combo.

I'm hoping to find a good combo that is alot less than that.

So, maybe you guys could help out with the following

1.) What shafts are you running?

2.)What U-joints?

3.)Any breakage? If so, any issues with warranty replacement?

4.)What was the total cost?

5.)Where did you get them?

Feel free to add anything else.
 

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Big tars, little bed.
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IIRC Yukon shafts are pretty popular around here and half the price of Superiors.
 

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I have researched the hell out of this on pirate4x4 and it seems like for the money alloy usa shafts are badass. They also have a 10yr no q's asked guarantee warantee. A buddy just put a set in his d44 and they are kickass and affordable.
 

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KStacoma said:
I have researched the hell out of this on pirate4x4 and it seems like for the money alloy usa shafts are badass. They also have a 10yr no q's asked guarantee warantee. A buddy just put a set in his d44 and they are kickass and affordable.
I too run usa alloy's chromos and CTM's. I agree best bang for the buck.
 

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I run alloy usa shafts and yukon superjoints. Great cost effective combo, and I have no worrys about its strength. Alloy USA has great service too, 2 weeks from order to my door. (custom length inners)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oztaco said:
i got my superior chromollys for sale for 500 the whole set with spicer ujoins, they are in great shape. let me know.
Man that sounds like a good deal, but what if I needed to have one replaced under warranty??? i thought it was only good for the original owner
 

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I am running the Yukon Superjoints and love them. They are cheaper than the CTM's. I had one destroy a stock grade yukon stubb shaft and not even get a scratch on it. Randy's Ring and Pinion sent me replacement caps free and I am still running it, now only with Chromo shafts.



-Trent
 

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The Satanic Panic
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dstrbdone said:
I am running the Yukon Superjoints and love them. They are cheaper than the CTM's. I had one destroy a stock grade yukon stubb shaft and not even get a scratch on it. Randy's Ring and Pinion sent me replacement caps free and I am still running it, now only with Chromo shafts.



-Trent
now thats what i call a conversational piece
 

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I just upgraded to alloy usa shafts (10yr warranty) and longfield ujoints (lifetime)

Both have a good rep for replacing parts and are affordable. I think I paid around $800 for everything.
 

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swank501 said:
Man that sounds like a good deal, but what if I needed to have one replaced under warranty??? i thought it was only good for the original owner
i broke a stub and i emailed superior, all they asked me was to take 3 pictures of the shaft and email em to them, within a week i had the replacement shaft.
no questions asked.
can't get better than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, i called summit racing and got a sweet deal on some alloy usa chromo shafts (sorry oz). They sell them as a kit and they come already assembled with ujoints and seals ready to put in the housing. Everything I researched about them leads me to believe they are equal to the superiors, but much less $$$$$$
 

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Discussion Starter #15
While I got my axle torn down, does anyone know the mfg spec on tightening the spindle nuts on a mid 80's Waggy D44? I have my method, but I may as well do it the "right" way if possible.
 

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Inner nut is 'tight' to seat the bearings, then back off about 1/8 turn. Then install lockring, and tighten outer nut to 55 ft lbs is what the book says I think, but I know many people tighten the crap out of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
well, I tightened it based on the specs from my K5 Blazer manual(corp 10 bolt). I tightened the inner to 50 ft/lbs then back it off and tighten again to 35 ft/lbs. Then I installed the lockring and tightened the outer nut to 140 ft/lbs. The wheel feels good when I turn it freely so I think it's good.
 

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I have always used 50 ft lbs on the inner to seat it while spinning the rotor. Back off 1/4 turn and tighten with just your hand on the socket. Then tighten the outer to 80 ft lbs. I have yet to ruin a bearing or have the nuts back off in over 40,000 miles since my swap. Tightenning the inner to 35 ft lbs and leaving sounds like it would burn up the bearing in a hurry.

-Trent
 

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Spec is something like 8-12 ft lbs or some shit. Agree, 35-50 is too much.
I ruined my first inner bearing w/in a month running it around 50.
 
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