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im stumped as to why my truck kills batteries.

im about to warranty my red top optima soon, itll be the third dead one in less than four years.

i dont drive the toy much, and start it up once a week or two weeks. for the longest time i would just disconnect the cables from the battery and leave it on a battery tender while it sits. if i leave the cables on itll go from 14v to 9v in less than 5 days. now i charged it up, take the cables off, and with a volt meter can watch the battery v drop with nothing hooked up to it.

switched out my toy alt(which tested in working order) for a gm 1 wire. all new wiring for it.
removed the door buzzer, cleaned up all the old stereo wiring(no deck in the truck atm) and am still at a loss as to why my truck drains the battery.

i started poking around with the test light and with the key out of the ignition and checking the fuses to see which ones are drawing power when the trucks off, but havent been able to find much.

is it just the nature of a vehicle sitting for so long in between periods of driving, or am i missing something? anyone gone through this with there crawlers?

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http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120888

guess i just need to put more time into finding the power draw.
 

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Takama's-N-Shit!
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First thing after checking all your fuses and wiring like you're doing is to ditch that POS Optima!...... I had a similar issue with 2 blue tops and a yellow top even with a c-tek charger hooked up to it all the time. I replaced those crappy Optima's with a nice big Die Hard Platinum (Odyssey made) and haven't had any issues since. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First thing after checking all your fuses and wiring like you're doing is to ditch that POS Optima!...... I had a similar issue with 2 blue tops and a yellow top even with a c-tek charger hooked up to it all the time. I replaced those crappy Optima's with a nice big Die Hard Platinum (Odyssey made) and haven't had any issues since. :D
is that a sealed battery? i got tired of having battery acid all over my frame and suspension.
 

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Takama's-N-Shit!
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is that a sealed battery? i got tired of having battery acid all over my frame and suspension.
Yes, it is a gel cell battery like the Optima's. Gel cell batteries are not known for sitting for long periods without a trickle charger....... however, none of the Optima's I had would hold a charge even with a charger. The Die Hard seems to be holding a charge like a champ and doesn't cycle my C-Tek on and off all the time like the Optima's did. ;)
 

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Connect an ammeter to find out your parasitic draw. It should preferably be 50mA or less.
This is what I would do once you got a decent battery in there like faux said. I have seen several issues with optimas same basic issue your having.

Hook your multimeter up one side on your ground post one on the cable with it disconnected and watch what the amp draw is.

Then pull fuses one at a time to isolate which circuit or circuits have a draw...
 

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Not driving it is death on batteries, any battery of any kind or brand.

That said drop, Optima because they've been selling their label for several years now and are widely known to have reliability problems.

If you want a good battery I suggest Odyssey and put some sort of a trickle/maintenance charger on it to keep whatever you put in there from sulphating and being drawn down by the parasitic drain that all modern EFI vehicles have. I've had good luck with Odyssey.

Maintenance chargers aren't made to charge a discharged battery but just to maintain a float charge and keep up with the small parasitic drain.

I have a solar charger on my truck to keep the battery up but you have to park outside for that to work. If you keep your's in a garage, get a plug in maintenance charger and use it.

Be sure you get the right kind of charger for the kind of battery you get. Wet cells and AGMs require different kinds of chargers with different charge profiles.

Infrequent driving and driving for short trips causes a condition called sulfation which is the leading cause of premature battery death. Sulphation is a condition caused by sulphur compounds forming crystals on the battery plates which insulate the plates and gradually reduces it's storage capacity. Sulfation can often be partially or completely reversed with special charges which apply pulses to break up the sulphur crystals. Some chargers today have automatic desulphator circuits built in that can pay for themselves quickly when you consider what good batteries cost.

Now you know.

PS make sure your alternator is working properly. If it isn't you probably need a dollar ninty eight set of brushes, not a new alternator. Maybe some new bearings wouldn't hurt.

In the end the last word is that you get what you pay for. Buy a cheap battery and you'll be buying another one in short order. If you buy a good one, you won't be buying so many so you'll probably save money in the long run. Batteries have a tough row to hoe in an offroad rig so it pays to buy something that can handle the abuse.

im stumped as to why my truck kills batteries.

im about to warranty my red top optima soon, itll be the third dead one in less than four years.

i dont drive the toy much, and start it up once a week or two weeks. for the longest time i would just disconnect the cables from the battery and leave it on a battery tender while it sits. if i leave the cables on itll go from 14v to 9v in less than 5 days. now i charged it up, take the cables off, and with a volt meter can watch the battery v drop with nothing hooked up to it.

switched out my toy alt(which tested in working order) for a gm 1 wire. all new wiring for it.
removed the door buzzer, cleaned up all the old stereo wiring(no deck in the truck atm) and am still at a loss as to why my truck drains the battery.

i started poking around with the test light and with the key out of the ignition and checking the fuses to see which ones are drawing power when the trucks off, but havent been able to find much.

is it just the nature of a vehicle sitting for so long in between periods of driving, or am i missing something? anyone gone through this with there crawlers?

---
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120888

guess i just need to put more time into finding the power draw.
 

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Dick, what charger would you recommend for an AGM?
 

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My red top has been in the buggy for who knows how long before I owned it (for me it's about 4 years). Has been run down/dead at least a dozen times and seems to work fine after a charge. If I were to buy another battery I would buy another Sears Platinum/Odyssey like I had in my tacoma, it was a great battery and likely still working well today.
 

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For an Odyssey, Odyssy has a nice one with the desulphating built in the right charge profile etc. Just size it for the capacity of battery you run. AGMs like to be charged hard with a decent current but as with any battery they don't like to be overchared.

Just look on their website for all the tech info you ever wanted to know. I don't have one of their chargers but I do have some decent power supplies, meters and such to do it like they like it.
There isn't much call for a full charger to charge dead batteries, the idea is to keep them from going dead in the first place. I have a couple of extra batteries, old ones that I brought back from the brink of death, that I keep on small float chargers. I use them for welding and such plus they're still plenty good for spares. There are other chargers out there but they all cost pretty much the same for good ones with the right features for use with AGMs and standard wet cells too for the most part.

I need to get my wife to take the plunge too, she just bought yet another Interstate the other day. IMHO those things are made only for max profit margin for garages n such. I think she only got 4 years out of the last one she paid way too much for. But that's women for ya. I can't get her to go to synthetic oil either. She'd rather pay a quarter three or four times over rather than pay fifty cents once. I think she sees it as one less pair of shoes or some shit.

Dick, what charger would you recommend for an AGM?
 

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It ain't really a gel cell. An AGM is a slightly different beast. Odyssey calls them dry cells but they ain't really dry either. They just won't spill acid because it's all absorbed as in absorbed glass mat. They have a video of their manufacting process on the Odyssey website. At the end of the day it's still a lead and liquid acid battery just built different from either a standard wet cell or a gel cell.

I don't know what the hell happened to Optima. They once made good batteries and had a good rep but ten or so years ago they went to making shit and selling their label. I guess they fell victim to the MBA/bean counter bullshit of making max profit over the next quarter and to hell with tomorrow thing and started cutting corners. Still Odyssey has better charge density than Optima because of the way they're made and simple geometry. There's lots of unused space in a six pack.

Yes, it is a gel cell battery like the Optima's. Gel cell batteries are not known for sitting for long periods without a trickle charger....... however, none of the Optima's I had would hold a charge even with a charger. The Die Hard seems to be holding a charge like a champ and doesn't cycle my C-Tek on and off all the time like the Optima's did. ;)
 

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I have the Diehard Platinum. Also a regular Sears charger. I guess I need a new and proper charger. Thanks Dick.
 

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I think Sears has a number of different chargers avaliable so I can't really say if you need a new one or not. If it's just for wet cells and you have an AGM then yes, you need another charger unless you get it charged by someone with the proper charger that has the correct charge profile.

I have the Diehard Platinum. Also a regular Sears charger. I guess I need a new and proper charger. Thanks Dick.
 

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Your alternator should not be drawing current if it's not running. It will consume current in the rotor windings in order to generate the magnetic field for the alternator to work with but it should not be connected to the battery or consuming current unless it's running. When it's running it is supposed to make more current than it's using.
It sounds as if your regulator may be bad.
The regulator regulates the current to the rotor windings and therefore controls the output of the alternator. If the output drops below the set voltage then the regulator increases current to the rotor making the magnetic field stonger which then increases the voltage output. If the output voltage gets too high then the regulator reduces current flow to the rotor windings which cuts the output down to what the regulator is set for. That's why it's called a regulator.

so ive traced it to the alternator drawing .5 amps

isthis normal for gm 12si alts?
 

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I don't know what the hell happened to Optima. They once made good batteries and had a good rep but ten or so years ago they went to making shit and selling their label.
They moved production from Colorado to Mexico and they swear up and down they have the same reliability and return numbers, but it seems like the Mexican Optimas just don't last and aren't as resilient. Optima also is now really pushing the "you just don't know how to properly recharge an Optima battery" line. Basically they are blaming the consumer that their product is shit.

Buy an Odyssey.
 

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I've been on the Odyssey kick for some time now. Even before it was popular or was even Odyssey. Hawker Energy who sold to Odyssey, once sold their product under the band name Black Panther, I think it was. I had one of those before my welder/voltage regulator went crazy and blew it up by overcharging it. LOL It was all swelled up like a toad. Proving that there can indeed be too much of a good thing.

I smell MBAs at work. They only know a limited amout, make it cheaper and sell more to make the next quarter look good inorder to score a bonus. After that they're at a complete loss. To hell with the customer, to hell with the future and to hell with a good name. For them a good name is only something to prostitue and sell for the most they can get for it today. That's too bad because I've seen a lot, too many, once great brand names flushed down the shitter in the very same way. One thing about reputations is that they're always earned and simply can't be bought but they can be wasted or thrown away.

They moved production from Colorado to Mexico and they swear up and down they have the same reliability and return numbers, but it seems like the Mexican Optimas just don't last and aren't as resilient. Optima also is now really pushing the "you just don't know how to properly recharge an Optima battery" line. Basically they are blaming the consumer that their product is shit.

Buy an Odyssey.
 
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