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Discussion Starter #1
After my SAS the group 34 Diehard has taken its toll on the fender liner and core support at the front of the engine bay. I added some extra sheet metal in hopes of gusseting it, but it bent after 1 mild trip.

Lots of people have relocated to the bed, bed toolbox, inside the extra cab.. etc. But, I don't want it in the bed nor do I have any extra cab, so all of that is out.

It looks like Dell has had some success with his auxiliary battery where the ABS block would normally be. See his thread.. http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84740
Here is Dell's mount (hope he doesn't mind me hijacking his pic..)


My empty space


I don't have ABS so thats not an issue.

Dell, Any issues since your last update?
I've been wondering if the heat from the exhaust might lead the battery to an early death.. I need to start looking for that old heat shield for the mini header.


What I'm here to ask, or rather brainstorm, is whether or not you guys think it would be structurally safe to sink the battery into the fender well.
I want to do this because a) the box I plan on using keeps the battery standing up and b) space concerns. The Barnes box keeps the battery upright, and I think I may have a larger battery than Dell.



If I have to cut some of the inner fender out in order to sink it further down, do you guys think that will wreak havoc with the structural integrity of the fender skirts?
I'm thinking realistically I may have to cut out enough to sink it down 2" or so. About half of the battery will still sit on the stock sheet metal, and I could weld in sheet to box everything back in.

Comments, concerns, flip off smilies?
 

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Going on 3 years now, got the idea from Dell and even made it work with abs.

*Don't worry about the black tape, was checking clearance at the time.






No stress cracking, yes I do check to verify. Rather than beating the fender well to "fit", I built the mounting feet to different lengths so that the battery sat flat as possible. Wasn't to keen on welding it to sheet metal so this box is bolted in. Each foot has fender washers on the inside (between the leg and sheet metal) as well as underneath the fender as well.

My suggestion if your dead set on using the prebuilt battery holder, mount it as close to the firewall as possible. Its deeper there and then becomes more shallow as it nears the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the input. I've already got the box on order and really have (had) no aspirations of making my own box. Seems like I'm on the right path as far as a good spot to place everything. Maybe I can get it all to work without cutting down into the fender skirt. I'm hoping to have this done in at least the next couple weeks. Will make sure to update this with whatever I end up doing!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Alright, got the battery relocated yesterday. Everything went pretty smoothly save for a missing right hand man to shuttle me to/ from the shop and some bad hardware I purchased to bolt the box in.

I started by deleting the cruise control. I may have been able to save it, but considering I don't ever use it anymore, it won't be missed. The throttle cable that runs to the CC actuator connected right to the throttle body and took out a lot of slack I felt in the pedal.
From there I had to beat down the fenderwell here and there to get a mostly flat surface for the box to sit on. BFH FTW! A few 3/8's tapered head bolts are sunk into the beefy 1/8" steel battery box to secure it to the fender skirt.
After that, I needed 1- 75" 2ga cable for the fuse box lead and 1- 90" 2ga cable for the starter lead. Both cables were soldered/ crimped. The 75" cable wouldn't hook directly into the fuse box due to the connector being pretty oversize and the tiny M6 (?) bolt being too short. Oh well. I just bolted it to the stock lead coming out of the fuse box. It'll do for now.
The stock battery to engine block ground was re-used. I hooked it into one of the engine mount bolts. There appears to be a matching hole on the opposite side of the block from where it originally was, but the bolt felt like it was starting to cross thread before it got anywhere close to clamping the connector down.
Same goes for the short 6" battery to body ground. It swapped over just fine. I ended up using a small self tapper to connect on the fender skirt.

Everything ran smooth yesterday and today and I'm getting a cool 14.6 volts at idle. This location seems a hell of a lot more sturdy for the heavy Die Hard battery. The hood is pretty close to the top of the battery. I need to get some rubber to place over the positive terminal just in case.
Otherwise I'm happy with everything.

CC out of the way.




 

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nice work at getting 'er in there Stephen :kewl:

I'm running dual yellow tops now...

haven't had one issue
since my first 34/78 (aux batt) was purchased and installed.

So what the heck...
threw in a new yellow top for the house battery as well
It's the newly manufactured Optima...
But it hasn't failed in 3 years use.
So I don't really buy into the hater hype.

I bought my 1st/original Aux YT back in '05
was already two years old (used/industrial)

and it's still going strong and maintaining high voltage/capacity
even after 10 years use and abuse.

Tho' I might have interest in running those SEARS platinum batteries...
I would have to build a new aux battery box/tray.

That reason alone... is why I'm still sporting Optima batteries.

Just don't buy the Optima red tops...
they rather suck IMO

 
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