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Discussion Starter #1
Does anybody know where I can find a place to research and buy some King shocks and coilovers for a 2007 Taco. I have done a lot of searching and have found very little.
 

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Call King shocks directly 714-530-8701. They are very helpful. But it is probably a better bet to go with the tried and proven valving of the hoes. I ran kings on my long travel sand rail, but went with hoes on my 05 taco for the simple reason that I did not want to experiment with the valving to get it just right.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yeah, point taken. I have not made my final decision decision yet. I like the Donahoe coilovers, but I am not crazy about the rear shocks. They are kinda chinsy. I also don't like the reservoir, I would rather have a monotube design with no clutter. That is what attracts me to the SAW setup, but I had the SAW rear shocks on my last truck and they were stiff as a brick. I even revalved from the 10 stack they came with to a fluttered 8 stack and they were still pretty stiff. I don't know what to attribute that too, but that is what happened. They may have been stiff still because the rebound was left at a full 10 stack though and that could have contributed to the stiff ride, but I am not sure because the compresion was really softened. I also used the Hoes in the rear as well for a short time and loved how they rode, just could not stand the reservoir and how it had to mounted. The shock mount gets in the way of the reservoir hose and I hate having to drill into my frame. I heard you can mount the reservoir to the shock body itself, but I have never seen that done and from my recolection the hose is very stiff and it seems that would put a lot of stress on the valves the hose is connected to.
I know the Kings have reservoirs all the way around, but it seems as though they came up with a clean way to mount it with their brackets. I am not sure how the install goes and that is one of the things that I wanted to reseach about them. Not to mention they are kinda rare, not many people have them and I kinda like the unique nature of having something like that. I would jump on the Dhoe setup if they had a rear shock without a resi. I tried to see if the FJ rear shock would work, but they said no because the lower bushing is a different size.
My final choice is just going with a lift spindle, deavers and bilstein 5100 all the way around. I am scared to that though because I dont want to be a guinea pig for that setup. I would like to know if I can run 295/70/17 or 295/75/16 tires, but nobody knows because nobody has tried it, I even contacted Allied and they had no clue. Finding shocks to work with deavers is tough though because those springs have so much travel that every shock I have tried tops out before the spring can totally extend. I tried both SAW and Dhoe with deavers. When you comepare the SAW to the Dhoe shocks the SAW are a smidge longer, but still not long enough to keep up with the deaver springs. You would think by now somebody would make an extended travel shock for the rear of this truck.
 

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10-4. I'm running Bilstien 5150's with the eye to stud adapter on the back of mine and I like the ride. Plus the resi is attached to the shock body...problem solved. IMO the 295 tire will rub the body mount worse than the 285, so it may not be worth it for you in the long run. I can help you with picking out the correct shock for that app, if you ramp the truck and give me the extended and compressed dimensions at the shock mounts. I am running a limit strap on the rear of mine. This will prevent you from damaging the shock at full droop.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate that dude, however I really don't want to have to run a limit strap because I would like to capitalize on all the suspension travel. It will be a 99.999999999999999% street queen, but will see the dunes approx. once a year. I definately don't plan on jumping it like the previous LT Taco of mine. I know that 295 will rub super bad with a 2.5 inch coilover lift, but if I go with 4 inch spindles do you really think I will have trouble with 295s, that is a full 1.5 inches higher than everyone with coilovers. Maybe I will have to combine the spindle with some coilovers to get it to clear, but nobody really knows for sure
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am not objected to using both spindles and coilovers to gain 5 inches of lift, but I don't want to go too high and have the tires look small. the biggest I want to go is 295/75/16 or 295/70/17. That is what I ran with my LT kit and it looked proportional to the size of the truck. If I go 5 inches in the front though that leaves a problem with the rear because a deaver 11 pack will only net approx 2 inches so I will be approx. 1/2 inch to 1 inch lower in the rear. 1/2 I can live with, but 1 inch will be a little too much sag for my tastes. I could go with Dakars, but I hear they ride stiff and I want a smooth as a cadillac ride.
 

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Gotcha, you're welcome. IMO that much lift will probably clear that tire, but why go so high, when all you really need to do is trim and plate the body mount? That is a lot cheaper than the spindle/CO suspension mods. The spindles will correct the rack geometry, but be prepared to deal with the rear DS vibe issues. Just MHO & :2cents: but I would cut :saw: and weld :welder: before going that high on a DD.
 

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By the way, if you set up a limit strap properly, you really don't lose much droop. You set it up so that the stretch in the strap falls just short of the total droop. That way you don't damage the shock. Plus it hits the bottom of it's travel without the jolt that you would normally feel as the shock runs out of shaft. Because the strap stretches, it's much less noticeable. Rock on.
 

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Just to affirm- go with Donahoe. Once you get those Kings they are yours better or worse. DR is top notch in the first place, then they take care of you all the way from what I hear.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah mojave I guess you are right. I should just go with a coilover lift with some control arms and call it day. If I trim I can clear 285 with out a problem? Stupid Toyota putting that big chunk of steel their. It is like they intentionally did that so we could not lift the truck and make it look decent.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Not to mention I think if I went with 5 inches of lift 295/75/16 tires would look to small in the wheel well. I hate the look of a lifted truck with tires that are too small.
 

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10-4 sounds like a plan. I agree with WES, you will have zero probs with the hoes and great customer service. Plus, you have the right valving from the git go. Cutting the body mount is a slam dunk fab job that will cost you so much less than the other route and won't mess up the handling of the truck. Plus, you will have a much better chance of not messing with your factory warranty if you keep the truck at a reasonable lift. Rock on!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I guess I will go with Dhoes and 5100s in the rear since I do have to worry about mounting a reservoir and drilling a hole. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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SinCity,
How did you clear 295s with LT? Doesn't LT give you 4" of lift? I know you didn't cut and plate bodymounts either.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I did run 295/70/17 tires and they did rub, bad. This was before I cut and plated the body mount though. The LT kit does push the arms out 4 inches per side, that would make it more prone to rub though. Not to mention I am not quite sure how much lift I was running. I had it sagged down, I think it was closer to 3-3.5 inches.
 
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