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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure how long they've been out but noticed last night.

Checked continuity on the following and all seem to be okay: bulbs and connections, 15 fuse, switch on transmission (no continuity when free, continuity when pushed per FSM).

What else can this be?
 

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Are you testing the switch on the truck or off? My switch tested good off the truck but not on. I just removed the crush ring (gasket) and used sealer. That effectively gave a little more push to the switch plunger. It has been a few years, working fine. That switch isn't cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tested on the truck... If I remove, do I need to drain the tranny?

Is the switch simple screwed on?
 

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To be clear, I have a manual. No need to drain oil, none will spill out and it just unscrews. If it tests good on the truck this trick might not work and your problem is in another area.
 

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Check your ground connection. The backup lamps' joint ground line runs forward to the BN7 connector underneath the driver's seat, then to a ground point around the left end of the dash reinforcement.

I've seen cases where odd rear light behavior ends up being explained by something amiss with the ground connection up in the cab.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Enola.

I see what you're talking about on paper in the FSM but I'm a newb at electrical so I don't know what I'm looking for when it comes to reality.

Are wires, connectors, and grounds marked in any way? Any advice to find the BN7 connector and IG?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Edit: I am watching tutorials on multimeters and how electricity works. I'll come back when I have clear questions.
 
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