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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My 85 4Runner's brake and charge dash lights come on when I start the truck, and usually stay on until I get the wheels rolling forward. After a few minutes of driving, the lights turn out. Lately the problem has gotten worse, with it taking longer for the lights to go out, sometimes a few miles. The engine starts rough about 1/2 the time, but once it's started, other than the dash lights, I have no problems. I just replaced the starter, and the battery is newer optima red top. Any ideas? Alternator, wiring harness? Thanks.
 

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That would mean your alternator isn't putting out enought juice, which would also cause the bad starting due to low voltage. I would get it fixed asap, red tops usually die for good if you kill them once.

You can take the alternator out and have it tested at a schmucks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When you say "get it fixed," what does that mean. Replace the battery? Replace the alternator? I'll take the alternator in and have it tested, anything else?
 

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You already replaced the battery... Sooooooo, replace the alternator.

If you are going to run winches and other high amperage drawing equipment, now would be a good idea to upgrade your alternator.
 

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Replace the Alternator.

Or at least, take it off and check the brushes. Worn brushes are the cause of many "bad" alternators; and are very cheap and easy to replace yourself :)
 

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When you say "get it fixed," what does that mean. Replace the battery? Replace the alternator? I'll take the alternator in and have it tested, anything else?
Test it first... but also check you connections from the recent replacments, thou a loose wire on the starter wont cause this.
 

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My 85 4Runner's brake and charge dash lights come on when I start the truck, and usually stay on until I get the wheels rolling forward. After a few minutes of driving, the lights turn out. Lately the problem has gotten worse, with it taking longer for the lights to go out, sometimes a few miles. The engine starts rough about 1/2 the time, but once it's started, other than the dash lights, I have no problems. I just replaced the starter, and the battery is newer optima red top. Any ideas? Alternator, wiring harness? Thanks.
When brake and alt lights go out, do they go out at the same time?
I noticed on my '85 truck, the parking brake tube slot under the dash it really worn, you have to wiggle the brake handle so to make the tab touch the micro-switch.
 

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When brake and alt lights go out, do they go out at the same time?
I noticed on my '85 truck, the parking brake tube slot under the dash it really worn, you have to wiggle the brake handle so to make the tab touch the micro-switch.
When you get a charge light you will get a simultaneous brake light.
 

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When you get a charge light you will get a simultaneous brake light.
Hu.. didn't know that. So... how do you know if you have a brake or chg'ing problem? yea, yea, when the truck doesn't stop it's the brakes; if the battery is dead it's the alt....could hear it coming :p .
What's the Yota thinking behind that I wonder???
 

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Hu.. didn't know that. So... how do you know if you have a brake or chg'ing problem? yea, yea, when the truck doesn't stop it's the brakes; if the battery is dead it's the alt....could hear it coming :p .
What's the Yota thinking behind that I wonder???
Something about how the wiring works, so if you loose the charge the brake light and charge light came on... IIRC my 95 didnt do it, but my 92 was before the wiring change and it did it.. .talk about throwing me off.. I have busted that belt on both motors...and the indication was different...
 

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Something about how the wiring works, so if you loose the charge the brake light and charge light came on... IIRC my 95 didnt do it, but my 92 was before the wiring change and it did it.. .talk about throwing me off.. I have busted that belt on both motors...and the indication was different...
Weird, learn something new every day...well, almost every day. Thanks for the info!!

Now, back to Peanut Butter... You get it fixed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No! Son of Bitch!!! I pulled the old alt out, and "borrowed" a new one from baxter's to use in case the old one couldn't be reused. So I had to pull the radiator hose off the bottom, drain my radiator, just to squeeze the old one out!!! There is no room on the driver's side of the motor to remove it, or install a new one, unless I pull apart the steering!! Anyone else have this problem? Then, to make things worse, the new alternator is about 1/32 of an inch too wide to fit in the lower housing. So, now it's stuck in there, without enough room to mount, but not enough room to pull back out and grind. help!!
 

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Uh oh, not good... Need to somehow get leverage between the alt bracket and alt and get it outta there. Once you have it out, verify dimensions against the old alternator. Obviously something ain't the same.

I killed my alt last weekend cleaning the engine, or at least that's what it appears. Hence the interest in the thread. Didn't realize the alt had 12v on it all the time, even with the key off. The power comes from the batt (duh) to the output side of the alt. I'da figured there would be a diode (check valve) or something between the power and alt. Gotta a little "happy" with the Simple Green I'm afraid. And yea, what a PIB!! Had the thing completely loose and rolling around down there and didn't have a hole big engough to get it out!! The FSM says take the lower rad hose off but I wasn't willing. Took the fan & shroud off instead and it dropped right out the bottom.

Note to self: Remove battery cable before washing (even though I've pressured washed engines hundreds of times without an alt issue)... :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, that's what I was affraid of. I will work on it and post up this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Alright. I decided to try the fan shroud and fan technique, and was actually able to squeeze the new alternator back out after just loosening, and rotating the shroud 45 degrees. I ground the alternator's mounting area flush, and then installed the alternator with no problems. It starts great, but I get a little squeal as the starter catches. I assume that it is a belt issue, but is the belt too loose or too tight?
 

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A squeelin belt is too loose...

Don't go too tight because you can destroy your bearings...
 

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Alright. I decided to try the fan shroud and fan technique, and was actually able to squeeze the new alternator back out after just loosening, and rotating the shroud 45 degrees. I ground the alternator's mounting area flush, and then installed the alternator with no problems. It starts great, but I get a little squeal as the starter catches. I assume that it is a belt issue, but is the belt too loose or too tight?
Its a PITA to get that belt tight, I usually use a large/long std screwdriver as a prybar on the alt housing, and the tighten the upper 12mm bolt, then the bottom 14mm pivot bolt/nut.
 

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Its a PITA to get that belt tight, I usually use a large/long std screwdriver as a prybar on the alt housing, and the tighten the upper 12mm bolt, then the bottom 14mm pivot bolt/nut.
X2, and don't overtighten as mentioned (why doesn't my multi-quote work?..humm)
Glad you gotter' goin' :)

ah64id, like the war bird ya got there!!
 
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