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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,
When I’m up to about freeway speed and I need to slow down I’m getting a pulsating from my brakes. My Taco is a 2004 with ABS, but I’m wondering if I’m that pulsating means that my rotors need to be machined….

Has anybody else had this issue?
 

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PRBond said:
Hey All,
When I’m up to about freeway speed and I need to slow down I’m getting a pulsating from my brakes. My Taco is a 2004 with ABS, but I’m wondering if I’m that pulsating means that my rotors need to be machined….

Has anybody else had this issue?
Does it feel like it does when the ABS kicks in? Or is it more of a pulse that scares the crap out of you? The reason I ask is it is possible that your rear axle seals are leaking on your rear shoes. When you stop it makes the rear brakes really weird. When mine first started doing it I thought my truck was going to fall apart. I had to change out the axle seals and put in new brake shoes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, I feel it more when the ABS kicks in. It's a small pulse that doesn't really scare me, and the truck still stops as normal...
 

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First would be to pull the tire off and look at the rotors/drums. They may need to be machined. If that doesn't do the trick you might have an issue in the brake system. Did you replace anything in the brakes recently? Do they need to be bleed? Sounds like typical wear issues that should be addressed.
 

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PRBond said:
Hey All,
When I’m up to about freeway speed and I need to slow down I’m getting a pulsating from my brakes. My Taco is a 2004 with ABS, but I’m wondering if I’m that pulsating means that my rotors need to be machined….

Has anybody else had this issue?
Sounds like your rotors are slightly warped.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll pull them off and take a look this weekend... If it is the rotors, I hope that I can just machine them and that will cure it... I really don't want to spend the money on new rotors if I can help it.
 

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PRBond said:
I'll pull them off and take a look this weekend... If it is the rotors, I hope that I can just machine them and that will cure it... I really don't want to spend the money on new rotors if I can help it.
They should be able to machine them as long as they are not super bad.
 

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...more than likely they have developed a hard spot in the rotor.

Try the proceedure below before you get'm turned:

You can anneal the rotors by making 8 hard (just before the brakes lock up) stops from 60 to 10 mph, then 2 from 80 to 10. Do not come to a complete stop in between to avoid imprinting pad material in the rotors.

The brakes will be fading severely when your done, and will in all likelyhood be smoking. Drive for at least another 15 to 20 minutes to allow them to cool - again this prevents pad material from being imprinted into the rotors.

The rotors will be a deep blue if the process is done correctly, and should be evenly annealed.

This process should be done with new rotors and pads too to correctly brake in the system.

The hard part about this is finding a safe place to make the stops - it's not easy to find a place with no or little traffic anymore...
 

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so when your breaking hard? - right? Isn't normal for abs to give a slight pulse when operating?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's not when I'm brakeing hard, just when I have to slow down from freeway speeds. ABS does make a pulse, however I never use to feel it before. Now I can feel the pulse, and I'm not so sure that's a good thing...

I don't know if I'm up for Crawler's method of fixing it... Although it doesn't require that I take the wheel of, more than likely I'd mess the rotors up worse than they already may be by trying something like that... If they weren't warped before I tried that, they sure would be by the time I got done with it.

I've seen places that will machine your rotors pretty cheap, so I'm probably just going to pull them out and have them machined. While I'm at it, I might as well replace the pads as well. New pads are usualy only about $20 or so anyway... Hopefully that will fix it and everything will be cool.

So long as my wife doesn't go into labor on Saturday, it shouldn't be too big of a deal.
 

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Sideways vibration or back and forth vibration?

You could get your rotors machined, but this tends to make them more prone to warping. Diagnostically, machining a rotor should tell you whether the problem is with the rotors or not though.
 

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1. Abs is not the cause. If it was the abs pulsating you would know it.
2. Annealing a rotor is almost impossible. If anything it will just warp the rotors worse.
3. Cheap pads ($20) will usually wear the machined rotors very quickly, ie: squeaking and warping. Or they will just wear out completely in a few thousand miles.
4. Air in the brake lines won't cause pulsations, due to the decreased braking power. However, very warped rotors can cause a spongy pedal.
5. Your axle seals are not leaking. If they were leaking bad enough to mess up the brakes, we would have seen it while doing the lift.
6. After you get it fixed, go easy on the rotors for a while.
 

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PRBond said:
I don't know if I'm up for Crawler's method of fixing it... Although it doesn't require that I take the wheel of, more than likely I'd mess the rotors up worse than they already may be by trying something like that... If they weren't warped before I tried that, they sure would be by the time I got done with it.
The process I describe is pretty much standard practice.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm


http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

read'm and then make a judgement...


Mark
 

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I just replaced rotors and pads after having a similar problem. I used the method above prior to getting new rotors, and it eliminated the problem for about 4 months, but it eventually returned.

I posted up my method for putting on new rootors and pads:

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61987&highlight=rotors

parts used:

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=SS&PartNumber=SS7549X&Description=Brake+Pads+-+Front,+Ceramic+Safety+Stop

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NB&PartNumber=4886575&Description=Brake+Rotor+Only+-+Front
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I just had the rotors machined and had new pads installed by Bell Rd Toyota in October.I took it in then for the 60,000 mile tune up and they did almost $700 worth of crap to it. I just got off the phone with them and told them what I was experiencing. They told me that the rotors were probably warped and to bring it in. I asked if they would cover machining the rotors since they just worked on them a short while ago. They said that they probably would, but they would have to look at it first... So, I'm going to drop it off there before work on Friday. If they give me some outrageous price to machine the rotors, than I'm going to say, "Forget it" then take it home and do it on Saturday.

Quote: I just replaced rotors and pads after having a similar problem. I used the method above prior to getting new rotors, and it eliminated the problem for about 4 months, but it eventually returned.

Crawler, I hope that I don't have this problem every 4 months...

I don't usually drive that hard, but I do drive a lot. My Tacoma is my daily driver and I put about 110 miles on it each day. No bull, it's a 2004 and I already have 84,000 miles on it. That's 1/2 the reason I bought a Toyota, if it had been a Ford the engine would probably have ceased by now...
 

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Warranty

Don't let the dealer give you that crap! The toyota parts warranty is for one full year, with unlimited mileage. They have to machine the rotors and should replace the pads also at no charge. They have pretty crappy brake lathes though, so ask them to use the on car one. That one is newer and will give you a much better surface because it accounts for wheel bearing runout. If you have any problems, ask for Todd or Mark, the service managers, they will take care of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Ray, that's good news to hear!

Once again I owe you one bro!
 
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