[ptrautne]

Does anyone have any links for front brake up-grades? I am having problems with the calipers sticking, so I am looking to upgrade my brakes at the same time to improve the braking.

 

[taco23]

Many have upgraded to Brembo rotors while using Performance Friction (I think that's what they're called) brake pads from Auto Zone. That's what I'll be doing when my brakes need servicing.

 

[cbr900rr95]

Does anyone have any links for front brake up-grades? I am having problems with the calipers sticking, so I am looking to upgrade my brakes at the same time to improve the braking.

What do you mean by sticking? Any symtom or info might help.
Did you jack up the frt and spin the wheel by hand with and without the caliper? It can be also the wheel bearing drag.

Couple of things I can think of.

When you step on the brakes, caliper's piston extend out and push on the brake pad, when you release the pedal, the piston seal will pull back the piston (??thousandth of a inch)to clear the pressure on the pad to the disc rotor, so if the seal went bad, you will have constant pressure or drag on the pad to the rotor.

2nd would be the caliper sliding pin sieze, in that case, all you need to do is slide out the pin, sand paper it smooth and apply some white grease and it should be fine.

Another rare case would be the brake pad's metal plate, that contact the caliper, it might be rust/pitting and "cock" at an angle, that will also cause drag on the rotor.

Rotor slightly out of round, not only it will create slight drag, also the rotor constantly pushing the pad>caliper piston in and the piston seal pull it back out, it will eventually worn out the seal.

Hopefully my info will help you pin point the problem before you go out and get the upgrade and end up with the same problem.

 

[ptrautne]

What do you mean by sticking? Any symtom or info might help.
Did you jack up the frt and spin the wheel by hand with and without the caliper? It can be also the wheel bearing drag.

Couple of things I can think of.

When you step on the brakes, caliper's piston extend out and push on the brake pad, when you release the pedal, the piston seal will pull back the piston (??thousandth of a inch)to clear the pressure on the pad to the disc rotor, so if the seal went bad, you will have constant pressure or drag on the pad to the rotor.

2nd would be the caliper sliding pin sieze, in that case, all you need to do is slide out the pin, sand paper it smooth and apply some white grease and it should be fine.

Another rare case would be the brake pad's metal plate, that contact the caliper, it might be rust/pitting and "cock" at an angle, that will also cause drag on the rotor.

Rotor slightly out of round, not only it will create slight drag, also the rotor constantly pushing the pad>caliper piston in and the piston seal pull it back out, it will eventually worn out the seal.

Hopefully my info will help you pin point the problem before you go out and get the upgrade and end up with the same problem.

Sorry the problem is that the pistons are not applying the same pressure which is causing un-even wear of the pads and the truck pulling when the brakes are applied (pulling towards the driver’s side and drivers side locks up before the passenger side). The passenger side pads need to be replaced soon and the drivers side has ~ 1/2 life left. Then on the driver’s side, one pad is worn twice as much as the other pad and similar differences are on the passenger side pads. I started to have the problem after I was playing in the mud (paragon so it had coal mixed in the mud), so I thought that the pads might be sticking to the pin. I cleaned the caliper and pins and I still had the problem. Then I pushed all the pistons in to see if one would not move, but they all went in and came out when you applied the brakes. I have been driving like this for a while and now I can not get either tire to lock up. Currently I have 33” tires but I also run a set of 36” TSL’s for the trail so I would like to upgrade the brake system when I am replacing/fixing the current parts.

 

[cbr900rr95]

Sorry the problem is that the pistons are not applying the same pressure which is causing un-even wear of the pads and the truck pulling when the brakes are applied (pulling towards the driver’s side and drivers side locks up before the passenger side). The passenger side pads need to be replaced soon and the drivers side has ~ 1/2 life left. Then on the driver’s side, one pad is worn twice as much as the other pad and similar differences are on the passenger side pads. I started to have the problem after I was playing in the mud (paragon so it had coal mixed in the mud), so I thought that the pads might be sticking to the pin. I cleaned the caliper and pins and I still had the problem. Then I pushed all the pistons in to see if one would not move, but they all went in and came out when you applied the brakes. I have been driving like this for a while and now I can not get either tire to lock up. Currently I have 33” tires but I also run a set of 36” TSL’s for the trail so I would like to upgrade the brake system when I am replacing/fixing the current parts.

One thing that does not make sense is you said truck pull to the left when brake apply, and also driver side would lock up before the passenger side, if that's the case, then driver side's pad should worn out before the passenger, but you mention

The passenger side pads need to be replaced soon and the drivers side has ~ 1/2 life left.

.

You also mention on the driver side, one pad worn alot more than the other one, but the sliding pin is clean, it sounds like the piston seal on the worn pad side is not retriving the piston back and the pad is riding/rubbing on the rotor and worn out faster than the other pad. ( assuming you have a 4wheel drive with 4 piston caliper)

You said problem start after playing in the mud, possible mud/debris get pass the piston dust boot and damage the seal.

You are on the right track to replace the caliper, but overhauling the caliper is alot cheaper, if they make a kit for it. I graduate from automotive 18 years ago, and the old days, you overhaul alternator, starter, caliper, but now days, you buy a rebuilt and turn in the core and they rebuilt and test it on a bench, than they sell it as a rebuilt again.

 

[ptrautne]

Ok after some searching, it looks like I have two options.

1) Big Brake upgrade from Stop Tech
2) Drilled and Slotted rotors with performance pads

The first option is ~ 2000 dollars and requires 17" rims so the first option is out. Now I am looking at the rotors and pads upgrade. After searching e-bay for some time I was able to find a lot of cross drilled and slotted rotors but I have some questions. Are the brembo or power rotor worth the extra money or are you paying for the name?

Brembo:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7944193050&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
Power Slot:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944228404&category=33586
Generic 1:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944285741&category=33564
Generic 2:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7945118548&category=33564

Does anyone else have any better options?

 

[taco23]

Suck it up and pay for the Brembo rotors, I bet you won't regret it. Slotted/drilled rotors won't make that much of a difference if any IMO. Once again, this is only my 2 cents, FWIW.

 

[joeylead]

Does anyone have any links for front brake up-grades? I am having problems with the calipers sticking, so I am looking to upgrade my brakes at the same time to improve the braking.

I have no experience with the brembo rotors or the generic ones you fond on ebay. But before installing my lift, I installed stainless steel lines, ceramic pads from autozone and drilled/slotter rotors from JC Whitney. They are Rototech and cheaper than the ones you found. The combo definitely stopped better than the original setup. Also check out this link

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/

it shows installing a chevy master cylindar and T-100 brake booster. It is a project I may undertake next summer. Hope the info helps!

 

[ptrautne]

I have no experience with the brembo rotors or the generic ones you fond on ebay. But before installing my lift, I installed stainless steel lines, ceramic pads from autozone and drilled/slotter rotors from JC Whitney. They are Rototech and cheaper than the ones you found. The combo definitely stopped better than the original setup. Also check out this link

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/

it shows installing a chevy master cylindar and T-100 brake booster. It is a project I may undertake next summer. Hope the info helps!

How long have you had the rototech rotors? Have you had any problems with them?

 

[SAR_Squid79]

I just got the Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors, and Carbon Kevlar Brake pads from Wheeler's Off Road, and installed them this past saturday.

One rotor said Left, and one said Right. I asked a guy and as per HIS instruction, I put the one that said Right on the Passenger side, and the one that said Left on the Driver's side. Was this correct? The way they are installed, the slots are swept back.

Also - Does anyone know if Carbon Kevlar pads get hotter than regular brake pads.

The reason I am asking these questions is because twice now, on a fast stop, my brakes have heated up tp the point of smoking, and I can smell them. They feel like they are stopping good, but I just want to make sure I installed everything correctly, and figure out why they are heating up.

 

[TacoCrazy]

I just got the Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors, and Carbon Kevlar Brake pads from Wheeler's Off Road, and installed them this past saturday.

One rotor said Left, and one said Right. I asked a guy and as per HIS instruction, I put the one that said Right on the Passenger side, and the one that said Left on the Driver's side. Was this correct? The way they are installed, the slots are swept back.

Also - Does anyone know if Carbon Kevlar pads get hotter than regular brake pads.

The reason I am asking these questions is because twice now, on a fast stop, my brakes have heated up tp the point of smoking, and I can smell them. They feel like they are stopping good, but I just want to make sure I installed everything correctly, and figure out why they are heating up.

Your rotor position is correct, although it would seem the opposite would be..If you are doing these fast stops fairly early on it's perfectly normal until the pads "seat in"..Just be easy on for the first few hundred miles if you can..

 

[SAR_Squid79]

*Whew* - I was hoping it was something like that.

 

[joeylead]

How long have you had the rototech rotors? Have you had any problems with them?

I have been tunning the rototech rotors for a little over 20k no problems yet. And of course I have been to lazy to install the master and booster. But braking os good, I have no complaints.

 

[link817]

left, right damn how general concerning instructions. I know when a buddy of mine bought super expensive baer rotors/ calipers set for his mustang they gave instructions on break in setup. you know do a set of certain stops from this speed, and then some from another speed.

 

[tomstin]

I am having problems with the calipers sticking, so I am looking to upgrade my brakes at the same time to improve the braking.

ptrautne, lot's of discussion about rotors in this thread, but if you have calipers hanging up you will continue to burn through pads and rotors. From my experience, when calipers hang up, it typically from one of the pistons binding on some corrosion between the piston and wall. Time to either rebuild the capilers or buy some rebuilt units. Get those caliper fixed before spending a bunch of cash on pads and rotors.