What do you mean by sticking? Any symtom or info might help.ptrautne said:Does anyone have any links for front brake up-grades? I am having problems with the calipers sticking, so I am looking to upgrade my brakes at the same time to improve the braking.
Sorry the problem is that the pistons are not applying the same pressure which is causing un-even wear of the pads and the truck pulling when the brakes are applied (pulling towards the driver’s side and drivers side locks up before the passenger side). The passenger side pads need to be replaced soon and the drivers side has ~ 1/2 life left. Then on the driver’s side, one pad is worn twice as much as the other pad and similar differences are on the passenger side pads. I started to have the problem after I was playing in the mud (paragon so it had coal mixed in the mud), so I thought that the pads might be sticking to the pin. I cleaned the caliper and pins and I still had the problem. Then I pushed all the pistons in to see if one would not move, but they all went in and came out when you applied the brakes. I have been driving like this for a while and now I can not get either tire to lock up. Currently I have 33” tires but I also run a set of 36” TSL’s for the trail so I would like to upgrade the brake system when I am replacing/fixing the current parts.cbr900rr95 said:What do you mean by sticking? Any symtom or info might help.
Did you jack up the frt and spin the wheel by hand with and without the caliper? It can be also the wheel bearing drag.
Couple of things I can think of.
When you step on the brakes, caliper's piston extend out and push on the brake pad, when you release the pedal, the piston seal will pull back the piston (??thousandth of a inch)to clear the pressure on the pad to the disc rotor, so if the seal went bad, you will have constant pressure or drag on the pad to the rotor.
2nd would be the caliper sliding pin sieze, in that case, all you need to do is slide out the pin, sand paper it smooth and apply some white grease and it should be fine.
Another rare case would be the brake pad's metal plate, that contact the caliper, it might be rust/pitting and "cock" at an angle, that will also cause drag on the rotor.
Rotor slightly out of round, not only it will create slight drag, also the rotor constantly pushing the pad>caliper piston in and the piston seal pull it back out, it will eventually worn out the seal.
Hopefully my info will help you pin point the problem before you go out and get the upgrade and end up with the same problem.
One thing that does not make sense is you said truck pull to the left when brake apply, and also driver side would lock up before the passenger side, if that's the case, then driver side's pad should worn out before the passenger, but you mentionptrautne said:Sorry the problem is that the pistons are not applying the same pressure which is causing un-even wear of the pads and the truck pulling when the brakes are applied (pulling towards the driver’s side and drivers side locks up before the passenger side). The passenger side pads need to be replaced soon and the drivers side has ~ 1/2 life left. Then on the driver’s side, one pad is worn twice as much as the other pad and similar differences are on the passenger side pads. I started to have the problem after I was playing in the mud (paragon so it had coal mixed in the mud), so I thought that the pads might be sticking to the pin. I cleaned the caliper and pins and I still had the problem. Then I pushed all the pistons in to see if one would not move, but they all went in and came out when you applied the brakes. I have been driving like this for a while and now I can not get either tire to lock up. Currently I have 33” tires but I also run a set of 36” TSL’s for the trail so I would like to upgrade the brake system when I am replacing/fixing the current parts.
.The passenger side pads need to be replaced soon and the drivers side has ~ 1/2 life left.
I have no experience with the brembo rotors or the generic ones you fond on ebay. But before installing my lift, I installed stainless steel lines, ceramic pads from autozone and drilled/slotter rotors from JC Whitney. They are Rototech and cheaper than the ones you found. The combo definitely stopped better than the original setup. Also check out this linkptrautne said:Does anyone have any links for front brake up-grades? I am having problems with the calipers sticking, so I am looking to upgrade my brakes at the same time to improve the braking.
How long have you had the rototech rotors? Have you had any problems with them?joeylead said:I have no experience with the brembo rotors or the generic ones you fond on ebay. But before installing my lift, I installed stainless steel lines, ceramic pads from autozone and drilled/slotter rotors from JC Whitney. They are Rototech and cheaper than the ones you found. The combo definitely stopped better than the original setup. Also check out this link
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/
it shows installing a chevy master cylindar and T-100 brake booster. It is a project I may undertake next summer. Hope the info helps!
Your rotor position is correct, although it would seem the opposite would be..If you are doing these fast stops fairly early on it's perfectly normal until the pads "seat in"..Just be easy on for the first few hundred miles if you can..SAR_Squid79 said:I just got the Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors, and Carbon Kevlar Brake pads from Wheeler's Off Road, and installed them this past saturday.
One rotor said Left, and one said Right. I asked a guy and as per HIS instruction, I put the one that said Right on the Passenger side, and the one that said Left on the Driver's side. Was this correct? The way they are installed, the slots are swept back.
Also - Does anyone know if Carbon Kevlar pads get hotter than regular brake pads.
The reason I am asking these questions is because twice now, on a fast stop, my brakes have heated up tp the point of smoking, and I can smell them. They feel like they are stopping good, but I just want to make sure I installed everything correctly, and figure out why they are heating up.
ptrautne said:How long have you had the rototech rotors? Have you had any problems with them?
ptrautne, lot's of discussion about rotors in this thread, but if you have calipers hanging up you will continue to burn through pads and rotors. From my experience, when calipers hang up, it typically from one of the pistons binding on some corrosion between the piston and wall. Time to either rebuild the capilers or buy some rebuilt units. Get those caliper fixed before spending a bunch of cash on pads and rotors.ptrautne said:I am having problems with the calipers sticking, so I am looking to upgrade my brakes at the same time to improve the braking.