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Discussion Starter #21
OP: sorry bout the hijack. The plans look good. You could probably make that out of 2x3x.25 box. Why not throw some extra gussets around it while you're at it (outside to the frame)?
I think with .25in material it should be plenty strong, taking into account shape of the bracket. Where would you put the gussets?
 

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People break both the perch and the motor mount itself Ilya. you should really consider doing it all while you are at it IMO...
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks! Do you know where the motor mount bolt-on bracket breaks? Maybe I could just reinforce the stock ones.

BTW, Mike, have you replaced yours? I will probably order new brackets as shown above from Ballistic Fabrication based on my drawings. I could order more than 1 pair if you are interested.
 

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on mine the actual rubber separated, but the metal stayed intact

then the perches collapsed

you could get away with drilling through the assembly and putting a bolt so it cant separate enough to tear the rubber loose, or weld on some chain like the rock crawler guys do
 

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Easy fix. Ive done it as mine broke around the flange and bolt holes.. Use a jack and push motor off of it and to support it.... You dont need to disconnect shit. Now with band saw cut off tower and whole broken flange. Take plasma cutter and make new oval flange 5/16 or whatever cut oval big enough to cover tower and bolt to motor. Mark holes. Cut holes. Now bolt new flange to motor using original motor bolts and nuts. Now release jack lowering new flange to tower... Weld to tower.. Now your done.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
going forward with this -

I eliminated big hole on the mounting plate so that water will not be leaking inside the bracket, thus no drain holes necessary. extended the bottom plate all the way up and added a little material around the mounting holes.

this was a bit of a pain to figure out geometry right to match stock bracket, but I think this is pretty close now. The new design bracket matches original factory bracket down to .020-.050in and about .2-.5 degrees on plane angles according to solidworks measurements and CMM data on plane angles I took at work. welding bracket slightly off will amplify these discrepancies though, but I think should be good enough.

click - video


no polyurethane bushings for now because truck is not caged, so engine would actually see more stress from frame twisting (again no cage to stop it from twisting) if mounted with polyurethane bushings vs stock rubber mount. also, keeps me from having extra vibrations. I will order new bolt-on rubber mounts though and replace them just in case. Might also end up reinforcing stock bolt-on engine mount brackets (the piece that goes between engine and frame perch) while I am at it.

if the truck was going to get caged soon, like jonsangel's, I would have gone with polyurethane bushings too, since now you don't have to worry about frame twisting so much.
 

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did you have to remove the front diff to get in there or was it after you SAS'd your truck. that's alot of travel btw!

also, sometimes the "tower legs" would buckle right at the holes so flange is only part of the problem.
Oops yea I did mine with IFS ready cut off. So I can't remember how much room there is.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
so I decided to go the long way and pull the engine to make welding easier and hopefully end-up with good welds all around the mount

start with this


after a lot of cursing at toyota engineers for making everything so tight and not separating engine harness from tranny harness end with this




 

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Discussion Starter #34
any suggestions on any maintenance I should do on the engine while its out?

I will replace oil, filter and spark plugs cause its about that time anyway and will fix a coolant leak from cross-over pipe. Considering replacing the rear main seal even though it's not leaking. Anything else?
 

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any suggestions on any maintenance I should do on the engine while its out?

I will replace oil, filter and spark plugs cause its about that time anyway and will fix a coolant leak from cross-over pipe. Considering replacing the rear main seal even though it's not leaking. Anything else?
rear main, timing belt & water (if needed), crank seal, cam seals, valve cover gaskets

All of this stuff would be easier to do with the motor out of the truck,
 

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Discussion Starter #38
so we made a fixture to position new engine mounts - we decided to slice 1 mount at a time and use the other side as a reference point. welded a piece of angle between old bolt-on engine mounts and used that for positioning. after using it though we figured out that we should have welded directly to the bottom metal plate on the bolt-on mount (duh!) - otherwise rubber in the mount allows it to move a bit, so some final position eye-balling had to be done.



 
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