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Looks good, and beautiful welds! Looks like pulling the motor would be the only "proper" way to do this fix.
 

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can't take credit for welding - my friend welded everything.

and thanks to ballistic for getting my custom plates made in 1 week.

final check would be when the engine gets installed, but first there is some maintenance to do.
Those turned out pretty nice. Good job on the CAD work, makes my job real easy when making them.

Wow! very nice work. I know there isn't much of anything by way of aftermarket 5vz mounts, any chance Ballistic Fab is going to be able to re-use that CAD drawing for others?
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thank you!
If anybody wants mounts like these, contact me through PM and I will get you these same plates for around same price as factory mounts from the dealer. Yes, you would have to weld them together (and cut-off extra material just like in my pictures), but since you already need to weld mounts to the frame welding 3 plates into 1 mount should not be a problem. Especially if I provide an engraved line on the plates indicating where they mate.

If I get a lot of interest I could order these in larger quantity and get better pricing.
 

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Very nice! If you ever have a problem with the rubber isolators, TG makes a "bomb proof" replacement. I want to do something with my engine mounts before I throw the front axle under it. Mines not too bad yet but there is definitely a crack.
 

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How long does it take to pull a motor? My motor mount rubber has a crack in it as well. When I do my 4x4 swap my T-case will have a Marlin HD Mount. I'm worried it would put to much strain on the motor mounts. This looks like a big task to take on though.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I would say you can do it in a weekend if you have a friend a friend or two handy and are willing to work on it all day. This was the first time I had to pull the engine and even though it was lengthy it wasn't that complicated.

Some things I still remember:

Disconnect all the hoses going between engine and other parts (body, front diff, etc.), disconnect engine wire loom from ECU (4 plugs total I think, located behind glovebox) and from tranny and transfercase (this was a pain cause connectors on top of tranny and t-case can be hard to get to), disconnect all ground wires from engine block and/or body/frame, disconnect power wires and control wires from starter and alternator and then undo plastic wire guide for this wire from the engine (this way you can leave battery cables in place), drain and remove radiator (only 4 small bolts, don't forget that if you have automatic then tranny fluid runs through bottom part of the radiator and you will have to drain tranny first), remove fan, unbolt power steering pump and aircondition compressor and hang them on the side with some bungee cords or similar), unbolt starter from tranny/engine (2 bolts) and undolt tranny to engine mounting bolts (6 bolts on automatic and some very hard to reach - long extensions and try accessing some from the top) then unbolt the 6 torque converter bolts behind the cover on the tranny (see manual - very important to unbolt these), unbolt engine mounts from frame, unbolt exhaust flange (3 bolts) on the passenger side (right where 2 tubes go into one so there is only 1 flange to unbolt, spray bolts with aero-kroil or similar ahead of time), remove the hood, triple check that everything is disconnected then try pulling the engine forward about an inch or two and then up after it slides off the pilot bearing in the tranny. Be carefull and read the manual.
 

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That link I have above at the bottom it says "Tacoma 2.7 & 3.4 95-04". It also says new and improved so maybe its new that they fit? I think I do remember looking them up a few months ago and my year was not listed. I have an '02 V6 so that would fit mine
 

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Discussion Starter #56
When I looked before I didn't see Tacoma listed, but you are right - now it does say that it will work for Tacoma! That's cool! I wonder if anybody has exeprience with these and how much extra vibration do you feel? Might not matter for a rockcrawler but for daily driver it might...
 

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I've heard a lot of bad things around the toyota boards about the tg bombproof mounts
Its in the link he provided already

http://www.trail-gear.com/bomb-proof-motor-mount-kit

"Applications:

* Pickup and 4Runner 4 Cylinder 22R & 22RE
* Pickup and 4Runner V6 3.0 89-94
* Tacoma 2.7 & 3.4 95-04"
He meant a link about the bad things hunter4runner has heard. I was going to ask the same thing. What is the bad things about them cause I def want to go solid mount

If most of the bad things are about vibes I have heard that about all solid mounts. Mainly people say the worst part is when sitting at idle. Mine is for a DD but the benefit of my tranny no longer jumping out of gear is worth the extra vibes I might feel
 
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bretdonovan
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