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Discussion Starter #1
Well I'll be picking up my TC kit here in a couple days and after buying some shocks (still not sure which brand yet) I'll be installing the kit. Question is. What should I do about a bumpstop. Polyurethane on the LCA? Or mount air bumps there instead? I heard having your air bumps hit there on the front part of the lca isn't the best place to have them strike. Anyone know any different? Originally I was going to run a 10'' coilover and cage the engine thus allowing me to run the bump off that onto the spindle. I just read an older post about not having a hydraulic bumpstop hit the top of the spindle now because the c-clip is too weak. Either way that's another story. My stock rubbers wouldn't get the job done would they?

Thanks. :welder:
 

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I would say bump it off of the upper uni ball still. I have not heard anything about the c-clip being too weak, it may be possilbe, but I have a friend who has had his tc kit for a while now and it bumping it off the upper uniball. The bump is way more affective bumping off the uniball because of its leverage point. We beat his truck bad out at Barstow and Glamis so I think you should be fine. Also I would suggest shorten the bump like an inch or double check your mounting location becuase way too many people are riding around on their bumps when they shouldnt be. Scott from Camburg went into this discussion further and if I can find the post from DR than I will, hope this helps.

-Justin
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would say bump it off of the upper uni ball still. I have not heard anything about the c-clip being too weak, it may be possilbe, but I have a friend who has had his tc kit for a while now and it bumping it off the upper uniball. The bump is way more affective bumping off the uniball because of its leverage point. We beat his truck bad out at Barstow and Glamis so I think you should be fine. Also I would suggest shorten the bump like an inch or double check your mounting location becuase way too many people are riding around on their bumps when they shouldnt be. Scott from Camburg went into this discussion further and if I can find the post from DR than I will, hope this helps.

-Justin
Well there is no way to bump it off the upper uniball right now given I wont have an engine cage to mount the cans =p But yea I see so many people with about 1/4'' of space between their lower arm and their air bump. Kind of makes me wonder.
 

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save for an engine cage, trust me. if your going LT and plan to offroad get an engine cage or your frame si going to flex and bend like no other,
 

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As per TC's instructions, you move the stock bumps from the stock LCA's to the bottom of the frame. That will work just fine until you figure out something different you want to do. I've heard somewhere not to bump it off of the uniball, don't remember the exact reasoning but look around.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok cool. I'll just do what TC sais then. Thank you. Oh and Brock, since I wont have a roll cage I dont plan on beating too hard but to be safe i'll be reinforcing the stock coil bucket until I can put in an engine cage.
 

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Yeah with the secondary shock hoop you can run bypasses, and some people tune the 3rd tube as a bump.
 

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The stock Toyota spindle will not hold up with a air bump hitting it on the top bolt. It will break eventually. Your best bet is inverting the stock bumps and a secondary bypass like Derek said.
 

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Yes. The stock spindles on our trucks suck balls. The TC gusset helps, but it can still break relatively easy compared to an aftermarket spindle. That's why Yota4life will be set with his aftermarket ones...baller for sure. You CAN I mean it's not illegal, but I am pretty sure it will break...there's enough stress on that part as it is. Spindles break without running air bumps, ask Shroom, he'll tell you about it.
 

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You can tune a bypass to act as a bump, but it is better to have a seperate hydro bump. That way you can set up your front end to be relatively soft for average running and the bump will soak up the hard hits (what I need). I say you would be fine running hydros off the LCA, and you could even weld a small strike plate on the arm for extra sleep at night if you want.
 

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You can tune a bypass to act as a bump, but it is better to have a seperate hydro bump. That way you can set up your front end to be relatively soft for average running and the bump will soak up the hard hits (what I need). I say you would be fine running hydros off the LCA, and you could even weld a small strike plate on the arm for extra sleep at night if you want.
i dunno, i'd say the stock spindle pretty much fucks any chance of having a real bump stop in there....ive heard of 2 cases where a hydro bump was ran off the lower arm and it seperated the lower arm from the spindle....basically the lower arm stopped but the spindle/tire kept goin and it was not the 4 lower bj bolts that failed

never actually saw any pics though, so who actually knows
 

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Maybe this is a case of mega huck going badly:rolleyes:
you can always break anything if you run it hard enough, what % of trucks usually finish the 1000 again?
 

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Ok i'll ask in fear of humiliation. When you guys say hydro(water) or hydrogen does this mean the bump oil pressure is kept by using water or hydrogen? And when someone says air bumps, Nitrogen is used? Or is it the same thing, just different connotations? lol.
 

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as far as the C-clip being a problem... take it out, and weld the slug to the spindle. especially if your doing an engine cage, its not like your going to worry about putting the truck back to stock.

and as far as the hydro bump striking the lower arm being a problem... if the lower arm was seperating from the spindle because of it, then wouldnt you have the same problem with the rubber bumps? the lower arm is still stopping, and the tire/spindle are still going to try to keep moving... regardless of what type of bump you have. id say running the bump on the lower arm would be your best bet, but possibly contact TC and ask if they would suggest having the hydro bump strike on just the front side, instead of how it bumps with the rubber stops... both front and rear sides of the arm hitting bump at the same time.

also, ive heard that if you were to run a bypass up front, once the piston passes the end of the compression tube(s), the valving is being used at its full effect (instead of oil being able to bypass it), which can partially resemble a bump stop with the higher compression resistance. is this true?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Oh, my friend has the JD Fab Taquito kit. His air bumps were practically riding on his lower arm. He mega hucked it farther and higher than I've ever seen in person and.... stuffed his front end into another jump. The air bumps bent his lower arms where they kept wanting to go.
 

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I figured i'd bring back an ancient thread instead of start another one. I was hoping some people could post up some pics of how they have their air bumps mounted. Having it bump off the spindle is out of the question for me at the moment. Maybe when i have money for an engine cage. Thanks for any advice.
 
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