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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently upgraded from my Deaver AAL to the Dakar pack on the rear of my DC SB. I have the OME shocks as well. There is about 6" of up travel left in the shocks and about 4" between the bump stop and the frame. I think I should be able to trim the bump stop to at least make up for the difference in thickness between the stock springs and the Dakars but I'm not sure how much is too much for the springs. Is there any way to tell how much travel is acceptable without overstressing the spring and causing sag? I was planning to just shorten the stops by about an inch and call it good.
 

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I thought the dakars gave a lot more up travel. am I understanding you correctly to say it decreased travel? 6 inches of up travel from resting position sounds like a lot. do you know how much you had with the deaver add a leafs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is more up travel left in the shocks than with the Deaver AAL because the truck is 1 1/2" higher. With the truck sitting on the wheels and the bottom bolt removed from the shock, when the shock is fully compressed there is approximately 6" - 6 1/2" of space between the shock mount and the bottom hole in the shock. I don't think that means I should cut the bump stop to give me a 6" gap though. If I loaded the truck to max capacity without the bump stops installed, I could measure the gap, add about 1/2", and cut the stop accordingly, but I'd rather not go that route.

I left everything as stock with the Deavers and didn't worry about it because they were so weak that I was on the stops if I was hauling a significant load. Some of the loads that were too much for the AAL were: 2, 400cc dirt bikes, a 4 drawer fireproof filing cabinet (beast!!), 46 12" square cement walkway blocks. So for me, a 500 pound weight limit doesn't work.

I hope I explained it right. I'm thinking there is more available up travel but I don't want to overdo it.
 

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Keep in mind that the bump will compress more under heavy loads. IMO, don't cut it, it has an OH SHIT factor built in. I actually extended my stops and had no problems with articulation. The longer stop may save your shocks in the long run. :2cents:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Even with no bump stop, I can't bottom the shock.
 

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That is amazing being as that the OME shocks are extended. They do make great products, but damn that is an engineering marvel compared to what is out there if they have that much travel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Even with no bump stop, I can't bottom the shock.
I take it back, I just measured it again. With no bump stop it would bottom out the shock by about an inch if the spring compressed fully to the frame.

The next time I load the bikes up, I'll measure it and then decide what to do. With the double overload springs in there, it should be a lot better than the old setup.
 

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10-4 also watch out for running a heavy load on those springs with a shorter bump. You will be running them in negative arch. That isn't good for long hauls with a heavy load. Before you decide to shorten the bumps, do this: Ramp the truck and re-check the shock stroke. Put a ramp under the drivers front and pass rear, then drive it up. I think you will be surprized with what you see. The axle moves in an arc and the travel dimensions change. It's not a linear change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
watch out for running a heavy load on those springs with a shorter bump. You will be running them in negative arch.

Yeah, that's what I am wanting to avoid. I'll do the ramp thing and measure again. I see what you mean. Because the lower shock mount is outboard of the spring, when the opposite side wheel is lower, the shock compresses further.

I'm really not too concerned about the shock travel. I think there is more than enough travel. (I'm going to check articulation anyways) I think the springs will be over arched before the shock bottoms out. I really don't want to over arch the springs but I also don't want to be on the stops prematurely. I'm building a U-bolt flip and I'll lose another 3/8" on the bumps.

When you ramped yours, was the right spring sitting on the stop?
 

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No, the shock was bottomed out. That's why I extended my stops. Keep in mind that I am running a 10.17 stroke Bil 5125 in this application. So you may be able to make it work with a shorter stroke shock. Ramp it and see if you can get away with it. IMO there is a good reason why that factory bump is built to that dimension. It's the OH SHIT factor. Notice how the bump is tapered from top to bottom. It's designed so that the bump gets firmer as the stop compresses. So if you cut it, you will feel the impact more and the impact to the frame will increase also. You probably won't ever hurt the shocks if you leave it stock length. :2cents: Good luck and keep us posted on your results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
IMO there is a good reason why that factory bump is built to that dimension.
Yes, that makes sense to me as far as the factory suspension goes, but since everything but the stops has been changed, that is no longer true, as you have proven with your setup.

I will fiddle with mine some more and post the results. Thank you for your input. You've given me some good direction.
 

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Yes, that makes sense to me as far as the factory suspension goes, but since everything but the stops has been changed, that is no longer true, as you have proven with your setup.

I will fiddle with mine some more and post the results. Thank you for your input. You've given me some good direction.
10-4 I hope it works great for ya. Have you considered a poly bump stop? Just figured I'd throw that one out there. Since you have a u-bot flip, you can make just about any bump work on that set up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I finished the U-bolt flip today and ramped and measured stuff. With the truck on the ramps, (before installing the U-bolt flip) I had 1" clearance between the bumpstop and the frame. I disconnected the lower shock mount and compressed it fully and there was 3 1/2" of travel left in it. All this with no load in the truck.

With everything on the level there is about 4" between the bumpstop and the frame. The U-bolt flip is 1/4" thick so I didn't really lose very much. I reinstalled the factory stops with a bit of modification and it'll be good for now. I put the studs on the spring plate so I can install a Daystar bumpstop later that measures 2 1/4" high compared to the factory stop which is 3" high. Accounting for the spring plate, I will wind up with a stopthat is only 1/2" shorter total for a gap of 4 1/2". I'm going to run it for a while like this before getting the new stops to see how close it is with a load on it.
 

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Set up looks good! I like the way you were thinking ahead and welded the studs for the poly bump to the plate. Good thinking.
 
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