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Discussion Starter #1
The story:

Got the IFS from an ADD tacoma awhile back (thanks Whackmaster)
solely for the purpose of the ADD axle tube. This way I can disconnect my passanger side axle (full time front locker is installed right now) so would come in handy on tighter trails.

The other day I was trying to figure out the wiring as this was an elec actuator , ended up burning up the motor and with nothing to lose set out to convert the actuator into a cable actuated actuator .

I'm about 50% thru with the prototype (using the old gutted out electrical actuator )

Should this attempt fail then I will build one from scratch to mount to the actuator location.

Design is simple, a spring holds the slide collar in the locked postion locking the stubb shafts together (engaged) yank on cable disengaging the stubb shafts with the locker in there it still provides power to the driver side , release cable (spring pulls shift fork back to engaged).. Simple and effective.


so after gutting the elec actuator and a little :saw: 'ing here and :welder: 'ing there i can now easily slide the shift fork back and forth by hand from outside the axle tube/actuator where the cable will attach.

Pics to follow as I near closer .
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is where the cable attaches

the attach point is in (collar engaged)

This is another pic of the attachment point in the (disengaged) postion


http://txttora.ath.cx/tacopics/act.wmv

Still need to fab up a plate to attach spring return arm to. and also a plate to hold the cable sleeve from moving but allowing the inner cable to move.
 

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interesting idea.....

would this mean that the drivers side would stay engaged all the time, even on daily driving? or would you use the manual hubs to disconnect that while on raod, then lock hubs and use this design for offroading in tight turns and such?
 

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The other day I was trying to figure out the wiring as this was an elec actuator , ended up burning up the motor
So what was the power source you were using to test the actuator before you fried it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So what was the power source you were using to test the actuator before you fried it?
12 volt DC R/C car battery.


Angel,
I have manual hubs and diff now with a full time locker.. all that this ADD axle tube does is allow me to disconnect the power going to the passanger side axle at will while on the trails - IE sharper turns , less chance for binding.
 

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interesting idea.....

would this mean that the drivers side would stay engaged all the time, even on daily driving? or would you use the manual hubs to disconnect that while on raod, then lock hubs and use this design for offroading in tight turns and such?

well all you would have to do is take it out of 4 wheel drive and it would act the same as add with no locker. Because if there is no drive train power going to the axle, the locker is not "locked".

mitch's idea is also the same idea as wiring up a switch to the electronic acuator's ground or power wire. if the electronic acuator has no power then the 4wd fork will retract, allowing you to turn better. This is what I have planned to do.
 

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mitch's idea is also the same idea as wiring up a switch to the electronic acuator's ground or power wire. if the electronic acuator has no power then the 4wd fork will retract, allowing you to turn better. This is what I have planned to do.
The actuator moves the fork into position. Unless it receives reversed power, it will remain in that position. The fork doesn't retract automatically.

I installed a vac acutated ADD diff in mine. I decided to go with vac as the electric actuators are known for going out (normally water damaged). I have the vac selnoids hooked up to a switch in the cab and can engage and disengage the passenger side whenever I want. If I ever have a problem with an actuator, I can simply remove the line and plug it in to a vac port on the intake.
 

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so then the video mitched put up of the fork leaver automaticly retracting after he pushes it is somthing he riged up?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
so then the video mitched put up of the fork leaver automaticly retracting after he pushes it is somthing he riged up?
Correct. Being as this is a cable actuated ADD tube, it by default will remain engaged (giving power to both passanger and driver side)

yank on cable, twist and lock it in place (like ebrake cable) and it dis engages and gives power to only driver side CV passanger side CV is then disengaged from power giving me 3 wheels turning

Locked front and rear :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looks good, Mitch. Hell, you might even be able to market this once you get it finished up.
after i put it thru its paces once 100% complete I may indeed offer my services to modify the actuator I have a business account with UPS now so I'm sure I will accept this if it all pans out as planned.

I'd offer a kit and instructions but im not sure everyone wants to gut their actuator broken or not then :saw: it up and :welder: back together. :lmao:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Do you have a spring in there to make it retract back to it's default position?
there is a spring internally that keeps the shift fork in the engaged position. IE to the left if you look at the axle tube as if its on the truck.. cable comes off the right side of tube.. so pull right with cable and lock cable in position keeps the axle disengaged. release cable fork goes back to engaged.

Edit: Final project may have an exterior arm/spring mechanism mainly for an easier installation. or a mount with just a return spring externally .
 

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after i put it thru its paces once 100% complete I may indeed offer my services to modify the actuator I have a business account with UPS now so I'm sure I will accept this if it all pans out as planned.

I'd offer a kit and instructions but im not sure everyone wants to gut their actuator broken or not then :saw: it up and :welder: back together. :lmao:
Maybe we need to look into creating an actuator from scratch that can be simply bolted on.
 

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Un-Hijacked by request ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Stop hijacking my damn thread please. . no you dont want a front locker on ADD without manual hubs. do some research and you woulda found things like premature CV boot failure (more then normal wear ) among other things, you really need to DECIDE what your gonna do based on what everyone has been telling you, we all did the stuff that really got us no where and if you need to figure it out on your own then by all means do whatever you want to do but take the offtopic stuff away from my thread please or to private messaging.
 

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there is a spring internally that keeps the shift fork in the engaged position. IE to the left if you look at the axle tube as if its on the truck.. cable comes off the right side of tube.. so pull right with cable and lock cable in position keeps the axle disengaged. release cable fork goes back to engaged.

Edit: Final project may have an exterior arm/spring mechanism mainly for an easier installation. or a mount with just a return spring externally .
take out the shaft and put a new shaft/spring inside... its been awhile since ive looked at the actuator, but it seemed that it could be pressed or cut out
 

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Discussion Starter #19
take out the shaft and put a new shaft/spring inside... its been awhile since ive looked at the actuator, but it seemed that it could be pressed or cut out
LOL bro , I put the spring IN there.. the shaft has no springs from factory only the actuator , and the groved shaft thats moved back and forth by a gear.
 

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Stop hijacking my damn thread please. . no you dont want a front locker on ADD without manual hubs. do some research and you woulda found things like premature CV boot failure (more then normal wear ) among other things, you really need to DECIDE what your gonna do based on what everyone has been telling you, we all did the stuff that really got us no where and if you need to figure it out on your own then by all means do whatever you want to do but take the offtopic stuff away from my thread please or to private messaging.
there is no problem with running a locker and ADD.(ask chris king ) Because like any lunch box locker, the locker is only engaged when there is torque applied to the diff. This means when the truck is not in 4wd there is no torque going to the front axle, therefore the locker is not engaged and the wheels and cv's are just rolling.

The reason for the wear on the cv's are because since there ADD and there always turning with the wheels weather in 4wd or 2wd, it wears the rubber cv's down to break. And it also depends how much lift your running. Because if your running too much lift then the angle on the cv's is too extreme.

for example: BurntOrngeLonghorn and george.arnold both broke ADD cv's/boots on the highway because the lift was too extreme on there truck.
 
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