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Was wondering does anybody have a write up on installing the upper a-arm? I just got a set and i'm about to install them and just looking for some advice.
 

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I don't have a write up, but I just did mine. You will need a ball joint press/remover. I had never removed any ball joints before, but it is pretty straight forward as long as you remove the clips on the top. There are some C type of clamps on the top. Once you remove the safety pin, nut, and A-arm, clean the BJ on the spindle arm so you can see what I mean.
 

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how good are they? DCABTACO, wut kind of coils do u have? How much were the a-arms?
 

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jerseytaco said:
Was wondering does anybody have a write up on installing the upper a-arm? I just got a set and i'm about to install them and just looking for some advice.
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacoma mods/donahoeschaosarms/totalchaosdonahoes.htm

I had mine done so I didn't have to mess with the darn ball joints. I have sense removed and replaced the arms twice to re-grease the bushings. Camburg now sells them with zerk fittings but I'm not convinced they will solve the squeeking problem. I just helped another member install the zerks on his Camburgs so we shall see how they work ;) Camburg claims that their new bushings are quieter and I may order some just to find out.

One thing Peter didn't include is that you will have to remove the airbag sensors from the fender as they are right in line with sliding that foot-long bolt out. It's just a 10mm bolt that you pull and just move them out of the way. It also helps to remove or at least fold back the air box for easier access to the bolt.

cover every part of those bushings with grease. The kit supplies you with some but not nearly enough so also get a tube of water-proof marine grease before you start. NWOR sells it or you can find it at any marine supply house.

It helps to have another set of hands but you can do the job yourself with no problems.

Make sure to use locktite on that long bolt when re-installing!!!
 

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I just got the a-arms and donahoe set from wheelers. thanks for the info, when i install them i'll post back and let you know how it went.
 

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Oh yeah, I forgot about the sensors. Don't try to remove the long bolt without removing the sensors. Like stated before only 1 or 2 (10 mm) bolts.


schcott said:
how good are they? DCABTACO, wut kind of coils do u have? How much were the a-arms?
I got the arms and (donahoes) coils from wheelers off road. I think they were like $1,350 for the set. This combo feels really good to me. I am very satisfied with the arms and coils


hytenor said:
Camburg now sells them with zerk fittings but I'm not convinced they will solve the squeeking problem. I just helped another member install the zerks on his Camburgs so we shall see how they work ;) Camburg claims that their new bushings are quieter and I may order some just to find out.
I got the one with the zerks So far I only have about 2K miles on them and no squeaks so we'll see if Camburg really fixed the problem. How long after did you start hearing the squeaks?
 

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The squeak will still come if they do not have lube! Urethane just will do this. We just went the extra mile to have the urethane made to fit the material we are using. Just about every company out there uses off the shelf bushings. These bushings will be tight in the material adding to the squeak.
We added zirk fittings so you can just add lube with a grease gun.
In the install make sure you just lube the inner part of the bushing and the flat surface where the bushing mates to the washer. DO NOT lube the major OD of the bushing, this is not where the bushing pivots. The bushing pivots on the inner sleeve. if you lube the outer part of the bushing it will allow the arm to pivot on the bushing causing sqeaks down the line as it destroys the bushing.
If you keep the system tight and lubed you should not ever have a sqeak!
 

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jzaiden said:
DO NOT lube the major OD of the bushing, this is not where the bushing pivots. The bushing pivots on the inner sleeve. if you lube the outer part of the bushing it will allow the arm to pivot on the bushing causing sqeaks down the line as it destroys the bushing.
well shoot, now you tell me, LOL

Hey Jim...see this?

I need to re-grease mine again anyway ;)
 

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jerseytaco said:
heytenor, where did you get your headers? wasd it a hard job to do?
header, singular ;)
I have the Downey but the only reason I have it is because the NWOR would not fit nor was is legal in Cali, and, LCE didn't have one for the 2.7 when I was looking for a header.

for the 2.7 the better choices are the NWOR for NON-California trucks or the LCE (legal in all 50 states)
The Downey has had problems with cracking over time. Although, I have had no problems in over 2 years with mine. If all you are interested in is top-end performance then the Downey is good product, IMO.

but, if you are looking for better low-end torque the nwor and the LCE are better bets.

I don't have any experience with v6 headers.
 

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jzaiden said:
The squeak will still come if they do not have lube! Urethane just will do this. We just went the extra mile to have the urethane made to fit the material we are using. Just about every company out there uses off the shelf bushings. These bushings will be tight in the material adding to the squeak.
We added zirk fittings so you can just add lube with a grease gun.
In the install make sure you just lube the inner part of the bushing and the flat surface where the bushing mates to the washer. DO NOT lube the major OD of the bushing, this is not where the bushing pivots. The bushing pivots on the inner sleeve. if you lube the outer part of the bushing it will allow the arm to pivot on the bushing causing sqeaks down the line as it destroys the bushing.
If you keep the system tight and lubed you should not ever have a sqeak!

What kind of lube should we use?
 

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White water proof Marine grease works pretty good. But Jerry might know something better.
 

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Donahoe said:
White water proof Marine grease works pretty good. But Jerry might know something better.
that's what i've been using...nasty stuff to work with though ;)
 

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Donahoe said:
Yeah it never comes off your hands but its great for urathane.
that orange hand goop gets if off but I still have to scrub.
that stuff sticks a lot longer than regular grease so you don't have to regrease everything so often.
 

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We've had the best results using Prothane's "super grease" which we supply with the arms. I figure they have done the most testing and have the most experiance with polyurethane so no point trying to re-invent the wheel. You can also get it in a grease gun tube so you can pump it into our zerk fittings periodically. I know Energy Suspension also offers polyurethane grease.

- Scott @ Camburg Engineering
 

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Just thinking about this...

Don't those zerk fittings pump the grease onto the outside sleeve of the bushing you are describing not to put grease on?

I put urethane grease on the inside and outside--squeeking in less than 500 miles!
 

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Toyota4ever said:
Just thinking about this...

Don't those zerk fittings pump the grease onto the outside sleeve of the bushing you are describing not to put grease on?

I put urethane grease on the inside and outside--squeeking in less than 500 miles!
Donahoe explained why the outer portion shouldn't be greased a few threads back. Grease the inside and the flat portion that is against those big flat washers but not the outer diameter.
but, the zerk only gets the inside, not the part that the washers match up to.
 
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