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Discussion Starter #1
I pulled the heads off my 05 4.0L V6 to replace a leaky gasket, and decided to replace the valve seals and inspect the valves while I was at it. The exhaust valves leaked during the water test. After a couple minutes of sitting with rubbing alcohol in the ports, the combustion-chamber side of the head was wet and dripping. I called around but the lowest I was quoted for a valve job was $400 including adjustment. Will it suffice to just lap the valves? Should I even bother with them, or just install them as-is? This truck is starting to get really expensive.
 

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Going John Galt
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31,839 Posts
I pulled the heads off my 05 4.0L V6 to replace a leaky gasket, and decided to replace the valve seals and inspect the valves while I was at it. The exhaust valves leaked during the water test. After a couple minutes of sitting with rubbing alcohol in the ports, the combustion-chamber side of the head was wet and dripping. I called around but the lowest I was quoted for a valve job was $400 including adjustment. Will it suffice to just lap the valves? Should I even bother with them, or just install them as-is? This truck is starting to get really expensive.
that sounds like a reasonable price including the adjustment
those valves and seats look nasty :p
any wear to the stems?
 

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Going John Galt
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31,839 Posts
$400 for a valve job ain't bad. No one ever said driving your truck was going to be free.
last time I did a valve job was in '77 :p engine machining class
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The stems look fine honestly. I don't have the right caliper for measuring the guides, but they feel snug when there is oil on the valve stems. I just dropped the heads off to get machined. Hopefully they won't need to replace any valves, but who knows. They are going to do a thorough job though.

I just hope the bottom end holds up at this point. I'm tempted to replace or at least check the rod bearings, but the engine is still in the truck and getting to the rods won't be easy with the two crossmembers under the engine. The bearings on these engines last a long time with good maintenance, right? Do the rod bolts ever stretch and need replacing? I'm not seeing any listed on dealer websites, but the FSM says to measure them.

My only real concern was coolant leaking into cylinder #6 and raising compression. The cams on that side were more worn than on the passenger side, but I've read that the back of the driver side head doesn't get as much oil as the rest of the valve train. As far as I can tell, coolant never made its way into the oil.
 
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