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I have not done any heavy 4x4 stuff, where I have to go over the rock rather than around it, I just want to get to my destination, be it a remote mountian location, a fire observation tower in the Sierra's or an old ghost town in the desert of Nevada.

Seems like a lot of people like a lot of different kinds of tires, and everyone drives a little different or does not have the same expectations for results.
Kind of torn between the BF Goodrich KO and have heard lots about Duratrac. Seems like they both have pluses and minus factors. Used the KO's on my last 3/4 ton GMC and averaged 60,000 miles and got pretty much every place I wanted to go. The limitation was the physical abilities of my truck.

Now that I have a Tacoma, I am willing to take a few more runs to see the sights. Last year participated in events at Hollister Hills, Ocotillo Wells, (rode in Extera).

So want to sell my OEM tires before the snow hits and pick up a set of either KO's or Duratrac. Can't decide
 

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I don't know if it was just a fluke but we were just on a shale road not hard at all and this is what happend to a duratrac. I have run many brands an I still prefer the Bfg all terrain. I have not had problems with the sidewalls and they do very well in the snow.
http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177936
Oh, and I air down to as low as 10 psi on the trail and romp on them. 33x10.5x15
 

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Cadet,

I have 32x11.5x15 BFG's AT's on my truck now (they are basically not made anymore).

I have a 3" suspension lift and they did rub on the driver side wheel liner when turning into driveways. However, if you cut the bump off on the drivers side liner you have will lots of room - don't even need to pound the pinch weld.

I'm going to 33x12.5x15 and I'll probably have to pound the pinch weld and possibly remove the mud flaps.

BTW, the other part of the equation is the wheels. I have 15x8 3.75" BS. You can't really put 33x12.5 on a 15x7 wheel though and even if you do it will rub the frame and possibly A-arm. I know you were not really considering 33's but just lettin ya know. I think 3.75" BS is the sweet spot - less than that makes the tire much more likely to rub the wheel well.

If I were you, and you were planning on keeping the truck for a while I'd upgrade the rims so you have more choices. There are no decent 32x11.5's and 33x10.5 is limited. When BFG says BO, that probably means they are not making them anymore. Many of the guys I know just get the 15x8 or 16x8 steel wheels so they can run 33x12.5. Even with a 3" suspension lift you may need a 1" or so body lift to clear at full compression. Remember that a suspension lift does not change the full compression point from stock unless you install taller bump stops.
 

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I was about to get 33x12.5x15 Goodyear Duratracs. Is the Toyo a better tire?
The Duratrac is nice because it's a very aggressive AT.

I didn't see any 33" Toyo's listed for a 15" rim.

Of course I could also just stick with BFG AT's

I just noticed that the 30-33"x15" Falkens have a 2 ply sidewall whereas all of their other sizes have a 3 ply. probably another reaon not to consider these tires.
 

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Wrangler Duratrac is a fantastic tire. We see them consistently getting 50-70k when offload seldom. They are pretty quiet due to the tread design, and the traction is way better than Cooper, or any other China made tire. If your budget conscious, go with the Kelly TSR or Dunlop Fierce Attitude. :2cents:

Not sure why the angry face, been awhile since I posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I ended up going with Falken Rocky Mountain ATS 31x10.50's - got a pretty good sale on them, but now a year later I'm looking at Tundra brakes and 16" tires...kind of a shame since these are still almost new (8k on them, anybody need tires?).

Now I'm debating between 285/75R16's or 255/85R16's to throw on some OEM Tundra wheels. I'm not sure which is the better tire for Arizona, and also wondering if I should just re-gear and go to 315/75R16's...but they're about 30% more expensive and HEAVY. Thoughts?

Cadet,

I have 32x11.5x15 BFG's AT's on my truck now (they are basically not made anymore).

I have a 3" suspension lift and they did rub on the driver side wheel liner when turning into driveways. However, if you cut the bump off on the drivers side liner you have will lots of room - don't even need to pound the pinch weld.

I'm going to 33x12.5x15 and I'll probably have to pound the pinch weld and possibly remove the mud flaps.

BTW, the other part of the equation is the wheels. I have 15x8 3.75" BS. You can't really put 33x12.5 on a 15x7 wheel though and even if you do it will rub the frame and possibly A-arm. I know you were not really considering 33's but just lettin ya know. I think 3.75" BS is the sweet spot - less than that makes the tire much more likely to rub the wheel well.

If I were you, and you were planning on keeping the truck for a while I'd upgrade the rims so you have more choices. There are no decent 32x11.5's and 33x10.5 is limited. When BFG says BO, that probably means they are not making them anymore. Many of the guys I know just get the 15x8 or 16x8 steel wheels so they can run 33x12.5. Even with a 3" suspension lift you may need a 1" or so body lift to clear at full compression. Remember that a suspension lift does not change the full compression point from stock unless you install taller bump stops.
I'm kicking around the idea of a ~2" lift and this - but I'm thinking with stock wheels and my target tire sizes I might rub the frame. My old truck had full-lock tire/frame contact with 33x10.50's..
 

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I'm not sure and someone else could chime in. That tc kit they used I thought had a wider stance. Iirc they used tundra cv joints up front instead of Tacoma ones. Yeah clearancing the fenders with help with vertical suspension travel, but you'll still rub more than likely at the frame with full lock. I know I do with the 255/85 bighorns.
 
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