Dylan, that picture you show here, is this kind of a reverse link setup that its running, i noticed its got two coil carriers on it, whats with that? light spring rates? or just mock up? I would be really interested in seeing the rest of that truck!DylanDr said:Nice job guys!
Mounting the shocks flat like that doesn’t affect function; they can be mounted in any position. But it does affect the bending stress of the shock. When the shock is generating the most force it is also subject to the most inertia acting sideways on it. This is when the shock wants to buckle. It the shaft is strong enough it won’t buckle but it will wear the shaft bushings and piston wear band WAY faster. When you start getting serious with the valving (ie. Bypass) you could run into some problems with buckling. I would move the reservoir to its own mount, the weight of it piggy backed to the shock like that will wear the shaft bushing faster(I like the DR sticker on the reservoir).
You can get some really cool progressive shock action out of a bell crank like that if done correctly. Then again you can get some really bad falling rate ratios too that make it want to bottom bad if not done correctly. The way the link changes angle through its travel has a lot to do with it.
Here is a picture of a relay arm that is a little different but has a 17% rising rate from droop to ride height and from ride height to bump has 56% rising rate….almost makes a bypass not needed. This geometry could be rearranged to look like your bell crank and have the same caricaturists.
sorry the picture got cropped and you cant see the down link
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Cantalever on a taco....wierdo
Ok so I've had this set-up finished on my truck for about a month, and am just now getting around to taking pics of it. I will get better pics later when the bed is off, but a couple members asked some questions so i thought I'd post and see what kind of response i recieved. It was definetly a Daunting task for myself and my roomate who aren't exactly the Gieser Brothers, but we have some baisic fab :welder: know-how. Tube is all DOM with delrin as the arm bushing and 5/8" hiems for the links. I feel bad posting such rusty stuff, but the undercoating wore off when we went to the dez. The valving was difficult to get even close because its a 1.7:1.0 ratio so they are super stiff, which as most of you know transforms to heat...which is bad. I will be changing some stacks tomorrow night to try and button it up before this weekend. anyhow, any input would be great....things you like...things you don't like, I'd like to hear it all. Also I'd like to say thanks to the guys at True Off-Road for helping me out and pushing me to just sak up and do it. OH! and i almost forgot. I'm posting a pic of my driver side inner fenderwell. Yeah, thats a hole (from the castle nut), and the imprint of the UCA on the inner fender well. My roomate decided to go hit up some SX whoops at MACH 20 when he borrowed my truck....J/K (just Joshing ya AHHH HOTA...thats AJ in espanol)
SOOOO i tried to post the pics but they are like 1.38 MB
heres the link
http://www.trueoffroad.com/photoGallery/4/21
-Drew
SOOOO i tried to post the pics but they are like 1.38 MB
heres the link
http://www.trueoffroad.com/photoGallery/4/21
-Drew
21 - 40 of 50 Posts
Thanks for jumpin in dylan. Yea, I toyed with the idea of making it progressive, but for what the truck is used for, it isnt really neseccary. Also, once we get the air bumps on there it will be fine. As far as shock failure goes, those shocks have gotten SO hot it was kind of funny. Those were just what we had laying around to build it around. I made enough room for up to a 3.0, so that is kinda the plan. And yes, the reservoirs are getting mounted on the crossmember... I believe that you saw the clamps when Dan was down there yesterday. Now, on my other truck that is getting a 4link with a coilover on a cantilever (bellcrank) - thats where things are going to get progressive. Hey Mike told me that we get to do the new product testing.... right???? 
As far as the DR stickers go - well we just thought that we may as well have the first set of DR remote resies on the back of a tacoma.
As far as the DR stickers go - well we just thought that we may as well have the first set of DR remote resies on the back of a tacoma.Whats the ride height like w/ the deavers and the shackle? if i'm not mistaken, they both offer around 1.5" of lift. I'd like to keep it limited to around 1-2" total. Could i mount a longer shackle, say a 10-12" on top of the frame(like 62's) and still pull decent numbers w/ the prerun pack?
I know that it is basicly 3.5" of lift. with my donahoes cranked, it still sits skink bug. I don't have that much experiance with the 62" deavers, but just remember that they are spring under....where as the regular length deavers are spring over. you could run the regular length deavers with the stock shackle, you will just get less travel. As for getting like a TC or Giant motorsports shackle, i have no idea, the shortest that TC makes is a 9". But if you are planning on fabing up your own cantilever setup, you have the know how and knowledge to fab up your own shackle.
LOL i almost broke a 8 leaf pack. And I was running stock bumpstops. the springs didn't go into neg. arch tooo much. lol
its possible. mainly neg. arch will cause the springs to loose their arch and give axlewrap.
And I was running stock bumpstops. the springs didn't go into neg. arch tooo much. lolits possible. mainly neg. arch will cause the springs to loose their arch and give axlewrap.
Yeah its not lifetime.. but their cust. service sure takes care of the worries. When I was up there getting my leaf pack rebuilt, they told me that If I was to keep the springs the same (same # of leafs) on a production pack there would be no cost... but sence I added a leaf there was a charge. They did get two sets of springs rebuilt in 2 hours though.
I have a shackle on my truck now that i made. Its similar to a TC/ESB shacke, and its 6" i believe from bolt to bolt. Just with the stock springs, it doesnt get too much travel. I want to run deavers, but i dont want to switch back to the stock shackle, but at the same time i dont want too much lift in the rear.
maybe i can run a 7 or 8 leaf prerun pack sprung under??
maybe i can run a 7 or 8 leaf prerun pack sprung under??
why don't you want to go to the stock shackle? you can also have the deavers custom tuned to your liking for some extra $$
the shackle will help get the larger travel #'s, at least i think so.
Yes it will help get more wheel travel. As far as the 7-8 leaf spring under.....i don't know how high that would sit compared to stock but it would be bitchen with that big ass shackle for sure. and you would get less negative arch at full up travel.
I gotta visit you guys. I live in shell beachTORR said:Ok, the full 17" of travel is coming from the thought that we can compress the bump stop 2" (it is a 4" bump stop). SO, from 2" down on the bump stop to the very top of the u-bolts(tallest part of the spring) is the measurement. Remember, we have a longer shackle on there. No mean to argue here, but just trying to set the record straight. How about this; I built a 1.7:1 ratio in the rockers, and put a zip ty on the shock body and we are using ALL of it. It is a 10" travel shock, so that equates to 17" of travel at the axle. Like I said, not trying to argue, we are just trying something new. We have already tested it man, sorry. We spent a few days in the desert near barstow last weekend and go out to the dunes (pismo) at least once or twice a week. We are always willing to go play tho, so if you are ever in the area, hit us up. By the way, we have revalved those shocks about 6 times trying to get the valving correct. Thanks,
Remember everything has its limits, once you reach that limit things start to break.
reaching the limit is fine...it's going past it you have to worry about
Umm yeah about that limit.....we kinda reached it. I was testing some new valving out at the beach, and the resi lines both broke off from the shock bodies, and i lost my oil. BAD......i was halfway through a pretty deep section when i felt the loss in dampening, and i had no choice but to drive it out. so i did...and in the process ....to put it lightly, annihalated a fox 2.0. shaft broke in half, the cap ripped off. to say the least i was stoked, because I'm broke. So now im driving around with 17" of wheel travel and no shocks...........NOT FUN. I know that there was discussion on the high amount of verticle load being placed on the shaft, but IMO the reason that the shaft broke was for other reasons. when the shock lost its oil capacity, it had no dampening whatsoever and blew through both sides of the travel violently. and i heard the shaft break a while after i noticed the dampening gone, although im sure the verticle load did have some effect on it, but the shaft broke in the opposite direction (as in up). I will keep posting when i have new shocks and get the valving down.TRDUSA2002 said:Remember everything has its limits, once you reach that limit things start to break.
DId you guys check the dividing piston and make sure it was in the propper location? its possible if you over looked that, you just bottomed teh shock out and the oil had no other place to go, that could be why you blew the hose out, as far as the shock shaft breaking that isnt good, is there wear marks on the inside of the shocks body?BLOWNYOTa said:Umm yeah about that limit.....we kinda reached it. I was testing some new valving out at the beach, and the resi lines both broke off from the shock bodies, and i lost my oil. BAD......i was halfway through a pretty deep section when i felt the loss in dampening, and i had no choice but to drive it out. so i did...and in the process ....to put it lightly, annihalated a fox 2.0. shaft broke in half, the cap ripped off. to say the least i was stoked, because I'm broke. So now im driving around with 17" of wheel travel and no shocks...........NOT FUN. I know that there was discussion on the high amount of verticle load being placed on the shaft, but IMO the reason that the shaft broke was for other reasons. when the shock lost its oil capacity, it had no dampening whatsoever and blew through both sides of the travel violently. and i heard the shaft break a while after i noticed the dampening gone, although im sure the verticle load did have some effect on it, but the shaft broke in the opposite direction (as in up). I will keep posting when i have new shocks and get the valving down.
How close did you have the ride before it went, was it moving smoothly, how did it feel?
im also interested in how the hose blew. could it have been way stiff compression valving that did it, or the piston in the reservoir in the wrong spot w/ too much oil(like deserttrd said) were the hoses kinked at all, or did they have any leaks before?
if you look at the pics...it doesnt look like there's any way the hoses could have snagged on anything. it had to have blown out, and i believe it the way he drives...he's a good buddy of mine and scared the shit out of me doing 80mph out at the dunes at night
i am confused about the piston question....I'm not familiar with the "dividing piston" if you are talking about the piston that separates the comp. and reb. shims (i thought it was called the main piston) it was put in correctly because all i did was change rebound. so it didn't even come off.DesertTRD said:Did you guys check the dividing piston and make sure it was in the propper location? its possible if you over looked that, you just bottomed teh shock out and the oil had no other place to go, that could be why you blew the hose out, as far as the shock shaft breaking that isnt good, is there wear marks on the inside of the shocks body?
How close did you have the ride before it went, was it moving smoothly, how did it feel?
The hose did not actually blow (aka pop) off of the shock. the line was pointing up. so when the axle would cycle the angle of the shock would change pushing the rod end up, and forcing the outlet end to rotate up into the 1 1/4" tube that it was mounted to. the line hit the tube, and snapped it off of the shock body, still attached to the resi.
there were no leaks in the hose before, and in order to have that stiff of valving to pop the line off, i would have had to run like....pretty much a soild piston, put it is possible.
As for what YoT158 said........the 80 mph thing was true but only because when he rode in my truck i had the same 10" 2.0's mounted to the stock mounts with BIG bump stops. so no up travel which isn't exaclty good for g-outs and whoops. BUT it is (was) way better than before, it'll do 90-95 in the same section now but it was a little sketchy with the valving i had it it originally. it packed really bad so on off camber stuff the rear end sould just kick out randomly.
there is a small divider in the reservoir that has to be set to a certain depth. we, were wrong though, the tube broke the hose off. basically everything worked fine, except the hose was a little too close to the tube.
youre talking about the "nitrogen piston/separator/dividing pison"? yes it was set to the correct depth 8" from the top of the resevior last time i changed fluid. yeah and that could have been avoided had i flipped the shock around...which is another reason i was a little upset that i broke it, because it could have been avoided...and now i have to drop a lot of coin for tripple bys......which i was going to do anyway...just not right now
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