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Hey guys, I have a question about the chassis bump stops. I recently did a chassis swap and upgraded to a 4x4 sr5 chassis that came with a 4" lift. I am in desperate need for new shocks and am going with Bilstein 5100's. I don't do any crazy wheeling just yet, but I am shelling out the money for something good from the get go.

Anyways, summit racing says that the Bilstein 5100's with a 4" lift need modification to the chassis compression bump stops to prevent damaging them.

What do I need to do to them? or where can I get taller bump stops? (I'm assuming I'm going to need taller bump stops, not shorter since its lifted)

1994 toyota pickup 4x4 4" lift
 

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Discussion Starter #2
oh and if it makes a difference, the rear is lifted with blocks (it was already on the chassis).

Not sure what I need to do to the bump stops. The bump stops actually look pretty new, so I don't think they are the originals. I'm wondering if the lift came with them but they are stamped "Toyota"
 

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With blocks your rear uptavel will be the same as stock probably(3-4"). You probably wouldn't want less rear uptravel then that. Measuring mounting distances at full compression and full droop is recommended over buying a shock rated for X amount of lift.

Be prepared to get:flamethroon this board for the 4" blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
With blocks your rear uptavel will be the same as stock probably(3-4"). You probably wouldn't want less rear uptravel then that. Measuring mounting distances at full compression and full droop is recommended over buying a shock rated for X amount of lift.

Be prepared to get:flamethroon this board for the 4" blocks.
Oh, I did not know that but I see how that makes sense. Yes, I've read that that is the best way to get the correct shock, but I think it would be beneficial to get a good shock with a good amount of travel already; thinking of the future. So since the 3-4" of travel that it might have as of now, I don't think I need to worry about the Bilsteins bottoming out right?

hahaha I did some research ealier and looked at the tech articles above, everyone's getting flamed for the blocks! lol

Not my choice nor my fault, I bought the chassis off of a guy and the truck already had the 4" lift on it with the blocks in the rear. I plan to change that up later maybe through an AAL kit or other.
 

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Oh, I did not know that but I see how that makes sense. Yes, I've read that that is the best way to get the correct shock, but I think it would be beneficial to get a good shock with a good amount of travel already; thinking of the future. So since the 3-4" of travel that it might have as of now, I don't think I need to worry about the Bilsteins bottoming out right?

hahaha I did some research ealier and looked at the tech articles above, everyone's getting flamed for the blocks! lol

Not my choice nor my fault, I bought the chassis off of a guy and the truck already had the 4" lift on it with the blocks in the rear. I plan to change that up later maybe through an AAL kit or other.
Another way to see if the they would be too long for compression to the stock bumps is if you know the compressed length of a stock shock,(a kyb stock replacement for a 94 4x4 is 12.63" compressed and 20.24" extended) to then add the block height to the compressed number(16.63"). If the 4" lift shocks your refering to are bilstein 24-185752(16" compressed and 25.63" extended) you shouldn't need to modify your bumpstops for compression. The reason they stated the bumpstops might require modifications is if you had 4" lift springs you'd have nearly(I say nearly because lift springs are usually a little thicker then stock) 4" more space between the bumps and the framestops. You would definitely need to extend the bumps with lift springs but with blocks it isn't needed. Don't get be wrong I am not saying blocks are better then lift springs, they just require less work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Another way to see if the they would be too long for compression to the stock bumps is if you know the compressed length of a stock shock,(a kyb stock replacement for a 94 4x4 is 12.63" compressed and 20.24" extended) to then add the block height to the compressed number(16.63"). If the 4" lift shocks your refering to are bilstein 24-185752(16" compressed and 25.63" extended) you shouldn't need to modify your bumpstops for compression. The reason they stated the bumpstops might require modifications is if you had 4" lift springs you'd have nearly(I say nearly because lift springs are usually a little thicker then stock) 4" more space between the bumps and the framestops. You would definitely need to extend the bumps with lift springs but with blocks it isn't needed. Don't get be wrong I am not saying blocks are better then lift springs, they just require less work.
Yes, those are the exact shocks I am referring to. I see, so essentially the space between the bumps and framestops remains the same with the blocks. And picturing it in my head, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for putting that all into text for me, that makes complete sense. When I replace the blocks, I will have to get taller bump stops. hahaha no I didn't read it as if you were saying blocks were better. I understand they are for a street driven rig, mainly for show purposes.

Thanks for your help, I greatly appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
taller bumps are hard to find and what is out there really doesn't do what's needed. best thing is to extend the strikes on the frame.
like this


more pics
http://www.ttora.com/~ccorley/mods/newbumpstopextensions/index.html
Sorry I'm replying so late but I do appreciate your response. That's actually a good idea, because you are right it is hard to find taller bumps. But since I have blocks in the rear ( :eek: ) travel pretty much remains the same as stock. I've tested them out, and they work great.
 

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Sorry I'm replying so late but I do appreciate your response. That's actually a good idea, because you are right it is hard to find taller bumps. But since I have blocks in the rear ( :eek: ) travel pretty much remains the same as stock. I've tested them out, and they work great.
right, all blocks do is hang the axle from a lower point; spring position has not been altered so neither has the travel amount. this, of course, assumes the OE bumps are still on top of the springs...as they were stock.

blocks are evil.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
right, all blocks do is hang the axle from a lower point; spring position has not been altered so neither has the travel amount. this, of course, assumes the OE bumps are still on top of the springs...as they were stock.

blocks are evil.
Yes spot on. Yeah, still using OEM bumps. They look fresh so I'm assuming the previous owner replaced them at some point.

haha so I have learned. I'm actually in the midst of doing research to get rid of the blocks but still retain the 4" lift since I'm looking to keep the 4" spindle lift up front for now.
Any reccomendations? I was looking into new leaf packs. I've already read about the 63", not sure I need all that. I'd love a bit more travel. I'm not building a full out rig, just something I can get to work, school, and off road in and have fun still.
 

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Yes spot on. Yeah, still using OEM bumps. They look fresh so I'm assuming the previous owner replaced them at some point.

haha so I have learned. I'm actually in the midst of doing research to get rid of the blocks but still retain the 4" lift since I'm looking to keep the 4" spindle lift up front for now.
Any reccomendations? I was looking into new leaf packs. I've already read about the 63", not sure I need all that. I'd love a bit more travel. I'm not building a full out rig, just something I can get to work, school, and off road in and have fun still.
different 63" chebbies will give different amounts of lift...and there are a bunch to chose from. i think 6-7" is the average with 4-leaf 4x4 springs. you might try some 3 or even newer 2-leaf for less lift...experiment with sets from a wrecking yard.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
different 63" chebbies will give different amounts of lift...and there are a bunch to chose from. i think 6-7" is the average with 4-leaf 4x4 springs. you might try some 3 or even newer 2-leaf for less lift...experiment with sets from a wrecking yard.
Interesting, I haven't gotten that far in to researching the chevy springs yet. Thanks for information. There's so much information out there it's crazy.

And I think I'd rather buy a set of aftermarket springs for the stock shackle locations that will give it a 4" lift to match the front. Only ones that I have found so far are the skyjacker soft ride springs but not much information on them, which leads me to believe they are not so popular.

I have seen the Deaver 62" which sound intriguing as I am looking for some travel. I love long travel set ups and that sort of sport. Unfortunately they only offer a 1" lift and I'd need to redo the front to accomodate it.
 

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Interesting, I haven't gotten that far in to researching the chevy springs yet. Thanks for information. There's so much information out there it's crazy.

And I think I'd rather buy a set of aftermarket springs for the stock shackle locations that will give it a 4" lift to match the front. Only ones that I have found so far are the skyjacker soft ride springs but not much information on them, which leads me to believe they are not so popular.

I have seen the Deaver 62" which sound intriguing as I am looking for some travel. I love long travel set ups and that sort of sport. Unfortunately they only offer a 1" lift and I'd need to redo the front to accomodate it.
Deavers are designed for flex, not weigh so take that into consideration. They can give you more flex than your shocks will allow for and require limit straps ;)

Despite their rep for being assholes, NORS (Northwest Off-road Specialties) does have very good springs. what you have to take into consideration is the #s that they advertise in their catalog are just about half of reality. Ie, if they say 2", figure 4, etc.

Alcan can make you whatever you want as well; they are more geared to load cap than flex (main difference between them and Deaver)

Bettis (Allpro) also makes custom springs.

another option is to check your local area for spring shops. If you have a decent one they can either rebuild what you have to your specs or make you a new pair...for about the same price as the above w/o the shipping charges. And, if they aren't quite right you have a local place to go back to. ;)

Skyjacker stuff tends to be pretty stiff from what's been posted over the years...they are mainly geared to full-size rigs, not early Tacomas.
 

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Deavers are designed for flex, not weigh so take that into consideration. They can give you more flex than your shocks will allow for and require limit straps ;)

Despite their rep for being assholes, NORS (Northwest Off-road Specialties) does have very good springs. what you have to take into consideration is the #s that they advertise in their catalog are just about half of reality. Ie, if they say 2", figure 4, etc.

Alcan can make you whatever you want as well; they are more geared to load cap than flex (main difference between them and Deaver)

Bettis (Allpro) also makes custom springs.

another option is to check your local area for spring shops. If you have a decent one they can either rebuild what you have to your specs or make you a new pair...for about the same price as the above w/o the shipping charges. And, if they aren't quite right you have a local place to go back to. ;)

Skyjacker stuff tends to be pretty stiff from what's been posted over the years...they are mainly geared to full-size rigs, not early Tacomas.
Yeah I read up pn the Deavers and they are more about flex. They'd make a good long travel rear spring. Yeah so the 5100's I have might not be ideal for those springs without limit straps or huge bumps lol

I've been looking at the NORS website lately. Seems like some good quality springs, more so about load capacity as well but say they offer good off road capabilities as well. They actually don't list a 2" lift rear spring for anything 89-94. They have up to 88 than skip to 95's. Thanks for the heads up on their numbers. These springs seem to be the most closely related to what I would need at the moment.

I have read great things about Alcan so far.

Allpro also seems like a good way to go. They actually have a full rear long travel kit 4" lift for what seems like a good price. Their springs are longer so I'd have to relocate some stuff but I do have access to a welder so it might not be so bad. My only concern with said kit is that it wouldn't pair up with the front IFS set up as it is limited on travel.

Good thinking on the local shops. There is a great shop here near by; SDHQ. They build some awesome trucks but they are very pricey. There are a few others but I haven't heard much about them. I might have to make a trip to them and see what they can do/have.

Thanks for the input on the skyjackers; I haven't found much info on them. That's weird that they are stiff yet are called "soft ride skyjacker springs."
 

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Yeah I read up pn the Deavers and they are more about flex. They'd make a good long travel rear spring. Yeah so the 5100's I have might not be ideal for those springs without limit straps or huge bumps lol

I've been looking at the NORS website lately. Seems like some good quality springs, more so about load capacity as well but say they offer good off road capabilities as well. They actually don't list a 2" lift rear spring for anything 89-94. They have up to 88 than skip to 95's. Thanks for the heads up on their numbers. These springs seem to be the most closely related to what I would need at the moment.

I have read great things about Alcan so far.

Allpro also seems like a good way to go. They actually have a full rear long travel kit 4" lift for what seems like a good price. Their springs are longer so I'd have to relocate some stuff but I do have access to a welder so it might not be so bad. My only concern with said kit is that it wouldn't pair up with the front IFS set up as it is limited on travel.

Good thinking on the local shops. There is a great shop here near by; SDHQ. They build some awesome trucks but they are very pricey. There are a few others but I haven't heard much about them. I might have to make a trip to them and see what they can do/have.

Thanks for the input on the skyjackers; I haven't found much info on them. That's weird that they are stiff yet are called "soft ride skyjacker springs."
NWOR catalog...
pt# N73404-2S is listed for as their 4" for '89-94; N73400-2S for the 2".
but yes, they are mainly designed for load cap along with the lift and include an overload.
N73400 shows w/o an overload, just 2" lift spring. '89-94. you'd most likely get close to 4" with this one assuming very little weight in the bed.
 

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NWOR catalog...
pt# N73404-2S is listed for as their 4" for '89-94; N73400-2S for the 2".
but yes, they are mainly designed for load cap along with the lift and include an overload.
N73400 shows w/o an overload, just 2" lift spring. '89-94. you'd most likely get close to 4" with this one assuming very little weight in the bed.
Awesome thanks for the part numbers and the info to go along with them. I'm not too interestd in load capacity. I don't carry anything in the rear really. I have a spare and will have a jack here in the near future. I'm not sure if that's too much weight for the springs without the overload.
 

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Awesome thanks for the part numbers and the info to go along with them. I'm not too interestd in load capacity. I don't carry anything in the rear really. I have a spare and will have a jack here in the near future. I'm not sure if that's too much weight for the springs without the overload.
then stay away from NWOR springs...they will loosen up eventually but it take years...and a lot of heavy loads :p
 

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then stay away from NWOR springs...they will loosen up eventually but it take years...and a lot of heavy loads :p
That would make sense since I'm not carrying much load. Although wouldn't the springs without the overload be fine? Haha yeah they should survive a few years. I'm almost considering leaving it as is butI don't like the 4" lift, it is too much imo for what I need. But I don't want to drop the coin to redo it all right now as I have another project: mustang cobra. Not sure, although I do hate these damn blocks in the rear. I'd be fine with just changing out for springs that will fit in the factory locations. But I noticed trail-gear has some 56" springs, which don't sound to bad that can give a 4" lift but would require moving the front spring hangers forward.
 

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That would make sense since I'm not carrying much load. Although wouldn't the springs without the overload be fine? Haha yeah they should survive a few years. I'm almost considering leaving it as is butI don't like the 4" lift, it is too much imo for what I need. But I don't want to drop the coin to redo it all right now as I have another project: mustang cobra. Not sure, although I do hate these damn blocks in the rear. I'd be fine with just changing out for springs that will fit in the factory locations. But I noticed trail-gear has some 56" springs, which don't sound to bad that can give a 4" lift but would require moving the front spring hangers forward.
see what your local shop can do, spring wise...then go from there.
 
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