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Discussion Starter #1
Well after fighting with cel codes and engine misfires I traced a EGR excessive flow (0402 I think) to a sticking EGRvalve. I removed the velve assy and cleaned out the inside with EFi Throttlebody cleaner and a seal pick.(I use the Havoline stuff it seems to work well).

After removing the egrvalve I took off a 6"rubber vac line and attached it to the vacc nipple on the valve and applied vacuum then with vise grips pinched it off to keep the valve open. It's spring loaded so the spring closes it and the vacuum opens it. The valve is at the tip of the shaft and has a shoulder that seats on a circular boss of sorts and a smaller diameter tit fits into the valve opening...looks like an upside down top hat in a hole.

Speay the cleaner in there let sit and use seal pick. Air dry or cmpressed air and once clean reinstall.

I've had no more issues with my egr problem it's been almost a 3weeks now and the engine purrs like a kitten.

So what's the cheap trick...I just saved 160 buck by cleaning the valve instead of buying a new one. The orig, lasted 184k, and then some since being cleaned.

this may help one person

:2cents:
 

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Goldentaco said:
Well after fighting with cel codes and engine misfires I traced a EGR excessive flow (0402 I think) to a sticking EGRvalve. I removed the velve assy and cleaned out the inside with EFi Throttlebody cleaner and a seal pick.(I use the Havoline stuff it seems to work well).

After removing the egrvalve I took off a 6"rubber vac line and attached it to the vacc nipple on the valve and applied vacuum then with vise grips pinched it off to keep the valve open. It's spring loaded so the spring closes it and the vacuum opens it. The valve is at the tip of the shaft and has a shoulder that seats on a circular boss of sorts and a smaller diameter tit fits into the valve opening...looks like an upside down top hat in a hole.

Speay the cleaner in there let sit and use seal pick. Air dry or cmpressed air and once clean reinstall.

I've had no more issues with my egr problem it's been almost a 3weeks now and the engine purrs like a kitten.

So what's the cheap trick...I just saved 160 buck by cleaning the valve instead of buying a new one. The orig, lasted 184k, and then some since being cleaned.

this may help one person

:2cents:

pics of what vac line u plugged up ect would be helpful bud.. I cleaned mine partially due to insufficent flow CEL.. Now i have an excessive flow CEL.. go figure.. didnt know about the damn spring loaded junk so thats why i say cleaned partially.. but carb cleaner did clean alot of shit outta there..
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'll see if I can snap a pic, but the valve is on the back of the intake assy. Once you have the valve off the vac line I used was just one of the lines from some other "circuit" if you had a spare hose laying around that'd work too. ON the valve there's a tube bout 1/8" diam that comes out the top apply vacuum to that and the valve will open. The hose is just an extension of the tube so you can keep the valve open.

Here's a pic:This view is how the valve sits as you look at the engine from the front. at the very bottom facing away from you is the flange that attaches to the egr tube that connects to the exhaust manifold. In the pic the valve actuates up (open) and down (closed).

 

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i have been having my check engine light flash on and off for a while now... it only does it when im on the highway and going a steady 60+ for 20min or longer... the light stayed on once and i ran the code and it said it was a misfire... (that was last week) im going to try this and see if this works.

the light still flashes but wont stay on solid
 

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Discussion Starter #5
onekickkawi said:
i have been having my check engine light flash on and off for a while now... it only does it when im on the highway and going a steady 60+ for 20min or longer... the light stayed on once and i ran the code and it said it was a misfire... (that was last week) im going to try this and see if this works.

the light still flashes but wont stay on solid
don't quote me on this but the flashing CEL means the ECU picked up the misfire but on three diagnostic stages or series of monitoring states the ECU conducts, the misfire was not present on each time. Your code reader should explain the different states of CEL illumination. I'd reset the code, and note which cyl it says is misfiring. If it's the same or not specific, check plugs and wires.
 

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i will have it checked again.. my buddy cleared the code. gotta figure it out.. its driving me crazy.. i also have 3000 miles ruffly for interviews.. i really dont need my truck to crap out on me
 

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onekickkawi said:
i have been having my check engine light flash on and off for a while now... it only does it when im on the highway and going a steady 60+ for 20min or longer... the light stayed on once and i ran the code and it said it was a misfire... (that was last week) im going to try this and see if this works.

the light still flashes but wont stay on solid
had a sim prob... look at this : http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62778
 
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