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toyotadude04 said:
Hey guys, sorry to resurrect this thread but I have a question. I have a 2001 Tacoma with this very problem. It really doesn't annoy me that bad but I am worried about the safety of the steering. For those of you who have taken the column out and looked it over, is there any way that the steering can completely fail as a result of the clunking issue? As in, a total loss of steering? :eek: One of these days I plan to fix it like some of you have done but in the meantime, it'd be nice to not worry about crashing. Thanks.
no, it doesnt look like it would fail. much more an annoyance than a safety issue.
 

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The 96 ifs toy I had did the same thing...Really noticeable offroad.
The 2001 D-cab ifs does the same thing..Learn to live with it..
My 2000 SAC has no noise at all.... :D
 

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hytenor said:
Steve still has an oe steering collum fs ;)
norcalvp
So the upper shaft is the problem? If that`s the case than does it stretch, or just wear out/larger clearances? Seems like their should be a bushing there or something,...is it splined or boxed?

pics would be great.
 

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I have a question for those that have pulled the shaft and pinned/welded it.

Is it absolutely necessary to pull the steering wheel and airbag? If so, why? I can't make out from the FSM why I'd need to (probably missing something in my hung over state of mind right now....).
 

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I have a question for those that have pulled the shaft and pinned/welded it.

Is it absolutely necessary to pull the steering wheel and airbag? If so, why? I can't make out from the FSM why I'd need to (probably missing something in my hung over state of mind right now....).

Yes, you gotta take it out, otherwise you can't even see the slip joint, let alone try a repair on it. But it's really not a big deal. I can get mine in and out in about 10 minutes now.

Been a while since I commented on this thread, but over a year later, and the roll pinning of the shaft, new ujoint assembly, and a new steering rack, and all is pretty good finally, suprisingly enough. I've been beating the hell out of the truck on some damn rough roads the last year while scouting and hunting, and everything is holding together just fine it seems. I've got an every-so-slight clunk from time to time, but greatly improved from original, and I've finally pretty much completely forgotten about it.
 

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I asked if you had to pull the wheel, not the whole shaft.

Tried this afternoon on my truck. Got it all out just fine leaving the airbag and steering wheel intact.

Remove neg batt cable, clamshell, springs, lower bolt and upper hex bolts and it slid right out. Now to figure out which method to use to fix it.

Yes, you gotta take it out, otherwise you can't even see the slip joint, let alone try a repair on it. But it's really not a big deal. I can get mine in and out in about 10 minutes now.

Been a while since I commented on this thread, but over a year later, and the roll pinning of the shaft, new ujoint assembly, and a new steering rack, and all is pretty good finally, suprisingly enough. I've been beating the hell out of the truck on some damn rough roads the last year while scouting and hunting, and everything is holding together just fine it seems. I've got an every-so-slight clunk from time to time, but greatly improved from original, and I've finally pretty much completely forgotten about it.
 

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I asked if you had to pull the wheel, not the whole shaft.

Tried this afternoon on my truck. Got it all out just fine leaving the airbag and steering wheel intact.

Remove neg batt cable, clamshell, springs, lower bolt and upper hex bolts and it slid right out. Now to figure out which method to use to fix it.
No shit. I could have sworn it had to come off to disconnect the electrical connections. Been a while since I've done it, but if I have to again, I'll remember that.
 

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Springs for tilt - WTF?

So I disconnected the battery, removed the clamshells, removed the 3 connectors for electrical stuff, marked and then unbolted the shaft at the ujoint, and then went after the 4 springs.

The 2 lower ones were cake. The two upper ones (heavy gauge wire) I cannot for the life of me get off. I read that getting these off while the whole assembly was on the truck was easy. I've tried with the tilt in all positions to adjust pretension on the springs, but I cannot get them off. Anyone have any tips or tricks on this?

Of course I can't weld, and I don't like the drilling idea, so I'm still not sure what my fix will actually be. But that's moot if I can't get the SOB out. :)
 

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I put the wheel in the full up position, and use a pair of long nosed vice grips to clamp onto the long leg of the spring and pull it towards the other connection point. Never took me more than a few seconds to do it.
 

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Thanks man, I'll try vice grips (don't have a small enough set to get in there, so I was using needle noise pliers).

Anyone in Norcal (Bay Area) want to run a couple tack welds for me in exchange for a 12 pack o' beer and pizza? ;)
 

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Not sure if this helps much and doesn't really address the direct issue.

I've been having the same noise fromt the steering column for a long time now and I just kind of accepted it. started driving in the smoothest lane of the hwy and trying to avoid bumps and divots at all costs. The ticking and tapping in the steering column finally drove me over the edge. I started to pin down the suspension issues...new bj's didn't fix it. In fact they made it more noticeable although they did fix some alignment issues.

After considering a new steering rack and then stumboing upon this thread I decided it was time to replace my body lift parts and bushings like I had been wanting to for a few years now.

I stayed the same height and got the 4Crawler Ultimate kit (cab only) and the Energy Suspension Bushings (poly). About 2hrs later...(stupid Craftsman jack wanted the day off) I was done and ready for test drive.

I only expected to eliminate some noise from bumps within the cab and knew it could actually feel a tad rougher/tighter...the ride that is. Right off the bat I felt something odd, I could feel more vibrations. Engine vibrations, high freq. vibrations, little things in the road but I gave myself some time to get used to it.

I hit some rough patches in the road I normally would have swerved to miss and...nothing. Peace and quiet. Sure I heard the initial thump but the dash didn't shake and sound like it wanted to fall off.

After a drive to Fairfield to move some stuff with the inlaws I got out feeling like I just put a new suspension on my truck. I'm not sure if it was the UHMWPE lift blocks or the Poly bushings but the combo worked. I think the bushings had the most to do with it though. My origional body mount bushings were starting to tear.

Oh yeah the steering column tapping and vibration dissapeared too. The other good thing is I hadn't been able to figure out why my truck felt mushy making a sharp left turn yet felt tight making a sharp right turn. With allt he noise before the new bushings I couldn't hear the knocking of a bad shock on the right front. No fluid was leaking during the bj installation (2wks prior). I heard a knocking going over RR tracks so when I got home I checked the shock out. Sure enough it's pissing fluid everywyere.

The body mount and lift block upgrade smoothed out the entire ride and pinpointed a bad component. Well worth the time and money...can't believe I waited so long to do it.

J
 

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Would this fix for the steering clunking also work on a 2wd Tacoma w/o adjustable steering?

My steering rattles something awful on bumpy highway pavement. Sounds like it's coming from inside the steering column, like a loose bushing or something.

Thanks to all who have pioneered the way to a fix.
 

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Hi everyone. I was researching a fix for the slop in my steering and sure enough I found this thread. Plan on installing a roll pin as well. I read the whole thread and I'm trying to figure out what would be the best size of roll pin to install. Someone mentioned .47 but I think that was a price not size (.47 is almost half inch and .047 would be tiny). I was thinking of installing a 3/16" roll pin. Just wondering what everyone else used. Thanks.
 

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Funny you brought this up today, because I was just thinking earlier that the repairs I made are still holding better than a year later, with a lot of hard off road driving.

I used a 3/16 roll pin, and it's still holding firm.

One of my big issues too was the lower column u-joint. A lot of slop in mine. I'd reseat the caps and it would be great for a while, but then they'd eventually work loose again. I replaced that as well, and all has been good since.
 

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Great so 3/16" roll pin it is. Glad to hear it is still holding up after a year. My biggest concern was that using too small of a roll pin and have it break. On the other hand use too big of a roll pin and have the uneasy feeling that it will not break in case of a crash.

Thanks!!!
 

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Turns out I have a couple 3/16" roll pins in my tool box but they are only 3/4" long. How long does the roll pin have to be? Thanks!
 

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I didn't measure when I pulled mine out (did a different kind of fix), but from what I eyeballed, I'd say you need at *least* a 1" long rollpin and if I was going shopping for one right now, I'd go with 2" just so I had plenty of excess to cut and grind.

Turns out I have a couple 3/16" roll pins in my tool box but they are only 3/4" long. How long does the roll pin have to be? Thanks!
 

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Got it, I'll take a trip the autoparts store. I didn't want to take it apart to find out that my 3/16"x3/4" pin was too short then have to assemble it all back to together again so I can drive to the store. Thanks alot!!
 

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Just finished installing a 3/16x1" roll pin in the steering column. Made a big difference. There was only 1/8" of play when I had it out on the bench. I didn't have to remove the airbag or steering wheel to do it. Actually I couldn't wiggle the airbag off so I didn't bother. Once you pull the whole thing out, the steering wheel and upper column can be taken apart easily at the knuckle (not sure what it's called). The tilt steering springs were easy, just used a set of needle nose visegrips as recommended earlier.

Next up are the steering rack bushings. Just waiting for them to come from Wheelers.

Thanks everyone for the great information here!!!
 
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