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After 226,000 miles, my clutch master is finally dying on me. I was losing pressure on the clutch and sometimes couldn't release the clutch while driving. One of the main reasons was due to the contaimination of the brake fluid and excess water in the fluid. I perform all my own maintenance, including the 30k and 60k major maintenance intervals. One of the things I neglected was the clutch. When I finally flushed the fluid a few days ago, it was a dark brown color with lots of small dirt particles. Not good.

I already had a slave cylinder rebuild kit, so I removed the slave and checked it out. Bleeder valve was clogged, inner cylinder was rusted and had lots of dirt and setiment. Flushed everything out good, cleaned and honed the slave and re-installed. Worked fine for a day then the problem came back. The seals in the master cylinder must be going out.

I just ordered a new master cylinder and a new slave cylinder. Cost $80 for the pair. I'll be installing them this weekend.

The moral of the story - Be sure to flush your clutch fluid every 60k miles when you do the same to the brakes.
 

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Thanks for the heads-up. My '02 has only 19K miles on it, but I will flush the clutch fluid at 60K miles.
 

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clutch

ShowStop said:
After 226,000 miles, my clutch master is finally dying on me.

and you're still on your stock clutch???? if so, that's crazy!
 

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wslytoy said:
and you're still on your stock clutch???? if so, that's crazy!
Nope, your the crazy one. I was referring to the clutch master cylinder. The stock clutch lasted to 80k miles, I replaced it again at 125k miles (it was only 1/2 worn) and I've now got over 100k miles on the current clutch, but its near the end of its life
 

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Clutch Flush...How?

ShowStop said:
The moral of the story - Be sure to flush your clutch fluid every 60k miles when you do the same to the brakes.
I know this is a really old thread that i'm bringing back to life...

So do I bleed my clutch the same exact way I would bleed my brakes? But except I extract the fluid ONLY from the valve on the slave cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No its aftermarket. I've got a wholesale parts supplier near my house where I get that kind of stuff. Between my roommate and I, we buy enough stuff from them to get straight wholesale pricing.
 

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tacomatrd4x402 said:
I know this is a really old thread that i'm bringing back to life...

So do I bleed my clutch the same exact way I would bleed my brakes? But except I extract the fluid ONLY from the valve on the slave cylinder?
You can do that, but I would use a something to suck the fluid out of the MC resivoir, then fill it back up with fresh fluid and bleed all of it out. Once you do that fill it back up again and bleed a final time. If you try to bleed the original fluid through the valve on the salve you will be running all that nasty fluid through the system...not a good idea. I have a syringe (sp) that I use to fill my nitro trucks that works great. Just suck out as much as possible to get that crap on the bottom...Good luck!
 

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Master Cylinder help please...

Hey everyone can you guys help me out. I got a lil question here. Ok I'm changing out my slave and master cylinder. I got a master from Napa and it doesn't come with the plastic cup where the fluid is stored so I had to remove it WHICH WAS A PAIN IN THE A$$. Anyways, my question is this...As hard as it was to get the damn thing off, it's going to be twice as hard getting it on the newer one. What do you guys recommend is the easiest way to get this thing on there? The new cylinder came with one of these pins...(I am afraid of breaking the plastic cup. Thanks guys...

 

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TacoDell said:
Tyler... Where'd you get a MC and slave for $ 80. ? Can't be Toyota factory stuff is it ?

Thinking of changing mine out... Just for good measure...
Ebay has the master/slave combo for 70 which looks to be just as good quaility as anything else. Harbor Freight has a 15$ self bleeder gun w/resevior good for brakes and clutch, it worked really well for me. No pumping the pedal, no second person needed, and it worked in less than 5 min. Also you benefit by sucking the old dirty fluid still in the clutch lines out, which would be left in there by the standard method.
 
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