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Hi all:

I own a 1987 fully restored Toyota pick-up. I've put a lot of money into it since I bought it in 2000.
The vehicle only has 114,000 miles on the 22R and it runs fantastically!
I've done quite a bit of work on it myself, but recently we had to have the clutch replaced.

I'm just wondering if anyone out there can explain or direct me to a site that to find out exactly what was done.

I know nothing about clutches.

I hear words like 'machining; resurface the flywheel; rear main seal; throw-out bearing" etc.

But I have no idea what was actually done to my truck!
My mechanic is evidently more action than words!

Can anyone shed some light on what the correct 22R clutch job entails (or should entail) just so I know?
The truck runs great, the pedal obviously has a different feel; but I'm also wondering what effect this may have on the ageing master and slave cylinders (remember it's a 1987!).
By the way, it's a 2WD - but I had to post!

Many thanks in advance,
Tom in Hakalau, Hawaii
 

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lets see, first you need to get the flywheel resurfaced at a clutch shop. Shouldnt be more than 40$
Order Marlins Clutch kit
Disconnect driveline
Pull Tranny
Pull Pressure plate (MAKE SURE TO PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH WAY THE CLUTCH DISC GOES!)
Pull Flywheel
Go Get Flywheel Resurfaced
While Flywheel is being resurfaced replace Throw Out Bearing (This is the bearing connected to the clutch fork)
Use a small amount of grease on the input shaft and the inside wall of the Throw out Bearing and the clutch fork pivot
Make sure before installing the clutch to clean the flywheel and pressure plate throughly with brake cleaner, the pressure plate comes with a coating that you need to clean off
Install pressure plate and clutch disc (make sure clutch disc is facing the right way!)
double check all your torque specs
Re-assemble (tranny,driveline, misc shit that was in your way....)
Bleed the clutch (Just like you bleed brakes)
Adjust pedal freeplay (look in you chiltons or haynes on howto do this)
^^^^^ Above step is very important
After a couple of weeks recheck pedal freeplay an enjoy your new clutch
 

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85runnerman said:
lets see, first you need to get the flywheel resurfaced at a clutch shop. Shouldnt be more than 40$
Back in the days when I had my 1991 truck with 22RE, when I replaced my clutch, Toyota had resurfaced flywheels on hand. All you had to do is bring your flywheel back in for core. I don't know how much they costed, but it was fast and easy. Make sure to replace the bearings, main and throwout is it? It's been a long time. Basically the job is not hard, but I had some help. If it wasn't for an extra hand it would have taken a very long time. I used a Toyota clutch when I replaced mine, because the first clutch I replaced was not a Toyota and it ended up being a POS.
 

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Here are some clutch replacement tips I posted on the old board:

Some tips in various order:
~Use a tranny jack to raise and lower the tranny
~36" long socket extension, u-joints and breaker bar will be very helpful for removing the tranny bolts
~Use red Loctite on the flywheel bolts if you plan to reuse them
~You will need a slide hammer with small claws to remove the pilot bearing. (The small Harbor Freight slide hammer works great for this)
~Buy a rear main oil seal and have it ready to replace should you determine the old seal is bad
~Be sure to grease the top and inside surfaces where the throwout bearing pivots on the clutch fork. Also re-grease the fork pivot point and the socket the clutch slave slips into. (Use high temp grease or HD synthetic grease)
 

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The clutch basically connects the engine's crankshaft to the transmission input shaft. A friction material similar to brake pads is used so that the engagement is smoother; that is why they wear out.

The clutch disk is splined internally to the tranny input, and is sandwiched between the pressure plate and the flywheel to which it is bolted. When the clutch pedal is pushed, hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder actuates the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder acts upon the release fork, which in turn has a throwout bearing on the end of it to reduce friction at the interface with the pressure plate fingers.

When a clutch is replaced, it includes the clutch disk and the pressure plate. The flywheel should be resurfaced, essentially analagous to a brake rotor. The throwout bearing is removed in the process, and since they are not too expensive, are often replaced at the same time. The pilot bearing is pressed into the rear end of the crankshaft and supports the front end of the tranny input shaft; once again, since they are relatively inexpensive, they are often replaced while the whole shooting match is disassembled. If seals are bad, either the rear main or the tranny input, now is the time to replace them since they are relatively inexpensive, and leaking oil is the clutch's worst enemy.

If whoever did your work replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, any seals that were bad, and resurfaced the flywheel, then you got a first class job.

Hope this helps.
 
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