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Discussion Starter #1
This time its a 2004 Taco of a business friend who has a hard time being heard or hearing during conference calls while driving or sitting in his truck on location. The goal is to get a more of a quiet cab than a standard luxury car at all speeds, and help control the climate for long calls sitting in the sun.

I am also putting in a Kenwood DNX 6180 that he found and purchased so I can set up the bluetooth mic as the headliner is coming off this time. Currently he uses those ear buds for his phone calls while driving and still has a hard time hearing all that is going on.
I think he has some new speakers to install in the doors, so now would be the perfect time.

Marking the 5th Dynamat lining I've done, I am venturing a little further as I never done a headliner, mostly in the past due to lack of knowledge and funds to cover the extra materials for my own vehicles. Both of the previous vehicles were both newer style Tundras. The latest one I went way above my normal approach and love the new solid experience everyday in my hours of commuting. Even with a V8 with intake, throaty exhaust, and knobby mud terrains, the inside is much MUCX quieter, and the stereo system is 2x as better. Solid base and crisp highs. With the volume maxed, not a single rattle in or out.

The plan is to put a single layer of Dynamat Extreme on the entire floor, tranny tunnel, firewall, back walls and headliner. I will also be lining the outter skin and inner door support. I am putting a second layer of Dynaliner on the headliner and the floor/fire wall over the Extreme, mostly focused over the exhaust and firewall/front footwells. A Hoodliner is going in to help muffle the sucking sound of the K&N air filter.
 

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I was jsut wondering about this the other day. Make sure to post up pictures and what he thinks about it afterwards.

Do you think that just Dynomating the doors(DoubleCab) would make that much of a difference?
 

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Vibration dampeners will do just that, stop structure borne vibrations. for a quiet ride you want to use a mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam decoupler to remove as much as possible, if not eliminate airborne noise. you'll notice a reduction in resonant noise from the dynamat, but it wont be luxury car quiet unless you use the other products to absorb and eliminate the airborne noise. check out second skin's website for their products and pricing. they also throw up promo codes from time to time on their facebook. when i deadened my 96 tacoma, i used their CLD tiles and it made a world of difference regarding the vibrations in the roof, door skins, cab, and rear wall. i didnt bother doing the floor because of its already rigid nature. when i have the cash (and the time), ill be doing my 08 double cab with damp pro on the roof, rear wall, and door skins, as well as lux liner pro on the floor, firewall, rear wall and interior door sheet metal.
 

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dynamat is asphalt based and EXPENSIVE. there are better products!
and yea, sound deadening any part of your truck with have a noticeable impact- the doors being the biggest improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah there are alot of products out there. None other than Dynamat do I have any experience, but my experiences have all been bar none. I know IS models of Lexus is not quite luxury, but it worlds apart from other cars I have owned, and my Tundra is much quieter than my wifes IS.

By far this is not the only option you have to quiet your ride, but it is my preference only due to my lack of wide based knowledge. No one I personally know has done anywhere as much damping with other materials as I have, so I also have no other reference, than those who also use Dynamat.

Pics of the tear down, lining, and stereo install will follow, I plan to do the install in mid-May. For now the orders have been placed with OnlineCarStereo.com for the Dynamat products I mentioned earlier.

Stay tuned.
 

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I used the products from RaamAudio with great success in my 4runner - but then again, these older trucks had NO interior sound deadening, so any bit would have helped. Lining the doors/quarter panels/tailgate made the most impact. Pics/info in my build thread below.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was jsut wondering about this the other day. Make sure to post up pictures and what he thinks about it afterwards.

Do you think that just Dynomating the doors(DoubleCab) would make that much of a difference?
I think it would help to do something better than nothing. Is the speaker kit or license plate kit alone going to make a night and day difference? Probably not. Doing just the entire inner support (where the door panels snap onto) help absorb the vibes from the speaker from transmitting to the door handle cables, and you will only notice minor improvements in sound. Mostly for the midranges from rattling the door skins and solidify the empty void between the doors if you did both sides.

Lining different parts of the cab help fight all of the different nuances outside and vibrations/humming caused from the drivetrain. With the added benefit of waking up your stereo system.
From my experiences, the floors have kept the road/tire and exhaust hum down a few notches to dam near invisible depending on your exhaust.
The firewall keeps some of the engine noise and heat out of the cab.
The transmission tunnel is more of the same.. some noise and heat.
The back walls helped with the muffler drone and control the subs.
The roof helps with wind noise and tin roof ping during rain, at least in a friends car.

I know its recommended to apply on panels with no to minimal support bracing, so where the floor pan is sturdy, the minimum recommendation is the unsupported gaps of thin sheet metal. The same can be said for the rear walls, however I did notice a big difference when I first only lined the unsupported center sections from when I covered the supports to each lined section making it one large covered panel.
Of course you cover what you can afford to and sometime you spread out what you have to get the most impact. I am not professional installer or bass champion, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I used the products from RaamAudio with great success in my 4runner - but then again, these older trucks had NO interior sound deadening, so any bit would have helped. Lining the doors/quarter panels/tailgate made the most impact. Pics/info in my build thread below.
Looks great! Good job and nice build!
 

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Lots of great advice! Thanks! Looking forward to your pictures!
 

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Vibration dampeners will do just that, stop structure borne vibrations. for a quiet ride you want to use a mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam decoupler to remove as much as possible, if not eliminate airborne noise. you'll notice a reduction in resonant noise from the dynamat, but it wont be luxury car quiet unless you use the other products to absorb and eliminate the airborne noise. check out second skin's website for their products and pricing. they also throw up promo codes from time to time on their facebook. when i deadened my 96 tacoma, i used their CLD tiles and it made a world of difference regarding the vibrations in the roof, door skins, cab, and rear wall. i didnt bother doing the floor because of its already rigid nature. when i have the cash (and the time), ill be doing my 08 double cab with damp pro on the roof, rear wall, and door skins, as well as lux liner pro on the floor, firewall, rear wall and interior door sheet metal.
I'm with this guy. I've done a lot of research and honestly all of the companies make a product that will improve the situation but I would talk to Secondskinaudio as well. Their techs will not only help you in product selection vs. budget but will also help you customize your order for what your goals are.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Right on. Tons of other options for everyone. Keep them coming and feel free to post your pics here too. Hijacking is cool as long as its on topic and is helpful to others. Myself, will be stick to to the Dynamat because one, I prefer a trusted name, two because I stick to what I know and three am afraid of cheap knock-offs.
I am gathering all my research to replace the factory front speakers with a set of Infinity components, and had to get the iPod interface cable. Install is still set for Mid-May and cant wait to get these boxes of liners installed.
 

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I am going to do this on my own Tacoma soon as I have a plethora of stereo equipment to install and have to basically remove the interior. Really want to do this...to quiet my ride, and make the stereo sound more solid. Im excited for this one! Consider my subscription! They got those 360.00 DynaMat brand packages on ebay! that retail for damn near twice that.
 

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Honestly ttora has a few audiophiles around but the best place for research of any audio related subject is diymobileaudio.com. do some searching around there and you will find more than a few that compete in both SQL and spl. I still highly recommend second skin over dynamat though. Dynamat has mostly name to it.....and what dynamat offers is not a complete sound deadening solution. If you're looking for a one stop shop I'd go with second skin. They have a wide array of products that will work together to complete a project such as silencing a vehicle. Remember that the whole idea is to lower the resonance frequency of your vehicle. Aka stopping noise by making the panels heavier and making the sound travel through more levels of material in essence quieting whatever noise down. Also don't go crazy covering every square inch of your vehicle. Its a waste. You need to apply the materials to the "trouble" spots that start the vibrating of your vehicle. In some spots you'll need stick on panels. In some areas a rubberized spray will be all you need and in others just a thicker padding will eliminate the sound. The key to sound deadening is using the right tool for the job.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Its all been said on diyma.com and sound deadener showdown. Im calling don a sds for a complete interior package this week. Unless i can find a local source for MLV

Interestingly enough dynamat knows what there doing but there matketing department sucks. If u read dynamats website they dont provide misinformation juat overhyped info makng u beleive all u need is a cdl tile. And the mlv and ccf layers is an add on. Then price the hell out of it!

Dima has a new cdl tile called alpha damp that looks to ne really flexible and with excellent adhesion.

Mr b and rickerrick know what theyre talkin bout!!

Also another tip is to line wiggly hangy bits with felt. If its in a door and its rattling on something felt it!
 

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Its all been said on diyma.com and sound deadener showdown. Im calling don a sds for a complete interior package this week. Unless i can find a local source for MLV

Interestingly enough dynamat knows what there doing but there matketing department sucks. If u read dynamats website they dont provide misinformation juat overhyped info makng u beleive all u need is a cdl tile. And the mlv and ccf layers is an add on. Then price the hell out of it!

Dima has a new cdl tile called alpha damp that looks to ne really flexible and with excellent adhesion.

Mr b and rickerrick know what theyre talkin bout!!

Also another tip is to line wiggly hangy bits with felt. If its in a door and its rattling on something felt it!
I would LOVE to get my hands on the Alpha Damp for my Runner. It'll come down to a moth in my wallet handing out cash though. The stuff isn't cheap but the quality is awesome. Here's a message that I got from Second Skin about my 4runner to give you an idea of what a budget would be (at least for a 4runner, Tacos would be cheaper naturally)

LOL, yeah Toyota and Honda both are huge tin boxes that need some help, especially the older ones.

Now that I have a bit more info and I know that it has more area than your typical truck, I would go with this:

60-80 sq. ft. of Damplifier or Damplifier Pro, whichever one budget allows for.

At least 4 sheets of Luxury Liner Pro. Probably more like 6 sheets since it has a fairly large floor.

A can or two of spray adhesive (this can be bought elsewhere like Home Depot).


Tackle all four doors with the Damplifier or Damplifier Pro.
5 sq. ft. per door would be more than adequate.

Hit the floor with the Damp/Damp Pro. I'd estimate 12-20 sq. ft. to tackle the floor. That's probably 25%-50% coverage on the floor.

Hit the rear hatch with some Damp/Damp Pro. 5-6 sq. ft., if that.

You can hit the A, B (depending on the year of the 4 runner), C, and D pillars with some Damp/Damp Pro. These areas are where you can use up the little scrap pieces.

And depending on how much effort you want to put into it, hit the roof with a solid 8 sq. ft. of Damp/Damp Pro.

Once you've sufficiently deadened all of the panels, start laying down the Luxury Liner Pro.
Again, 100% coverage with a noise barrier will provide that luxury car sound and feel.

Spend a little bit of extra time and effort covering up the rear wheel humps. There are the biggest contributor to the road and tire noise you're hearing.

Some people have even went as far as installing the Luxury Liner Pro IN the doors. This can be tricky because of the sheer weight of the product and keeping it stuck to the door. Well worth it, but tricky as all get out.


Now there is one more step you should consider and that would be to use some of our Spectrum and coat the wheel wells with it. By applying the Spectrum to the wheel wells you are sandwiching the sheet metal between two sound deadening materials, giving it little to no chance to vibration/resonate.

I hope that helps steer you in the right direction. If you have any other questions or anything, just ask!

Later,
Jon
That along with the awesome writeup SurfingDrunk posted up will help anyone trying to get rid of rattles and road noise to a pretty good degree. For myself I do it for the audio. Some people around here run really loud tires on the street and might want to spray some more deadening material around the fenders to help get rid of the hum.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't know fellas. Still not getting on that train, especially since the boxes are already in the garage waiting for install:D. Everyone has their own marketing campaigns and of course they will say theirs is the best compared to the competitors. Sometimes you get what you pay for and sometimes there is not difference and its what we want to believe that we got a better deal, helps shape our decisions.
I would like to see a side-by-side testing between the different manufactures with similar products to say which reigns supreme or what combination of materials proves the best at what. I will have to look into diyma.com for a future reference. This wont be my last ride I line. I have a '65 Impala that is slated for later this summer.
Anyone have any links?

I tried dynamat more than once and have been sold since the first time. Just like I have been sold on Toyotas since the first time I wheeled one, though Ford Rangers are cheaper and might be able to keep up if built equally as mine.
Date is set for the weekend after Mother's Day. Pics to follow.
 

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Its going to be all opinions because the proof is kinda hard to pull without lab testing with a decimeter. Hopefully you're happy with your purchase and the stuff works well.

sent from my stupid smartphone with autospell.
 

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You're a bastard...I know they vary year to year but either a 65/66 impala ss is one of the few hot rods I'd love to own! There is an independet side by side comparison out there with SecondSkin, Dynamat, RAAM (I believe), and another brand in regards to their effectiveness, material sample, construction and durability. I had it on my laptop but that's been down bird. Can't pull it up on y phone at the moment...that, and I'm too lazy to. Especially at 1am. Do some digging and you'll find it. Dynamat is a good product, but IMO you're paying a premium for the name and marketing.
 
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