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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Truck is now for sale... http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186227

Ok... so I guess its time to start a thread seeing how the build is beginning and its just the thing to do...

First we need some baseline pics. These ought to do. What it looked like the day I bought it. Most say it was too pretty to wheel, the factory lockers and TJM bumper convinced me otherwise...




 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So, lets jump to today. My ingenious idea not to wheel it until i had armor didnt quite work out as planned. Currently I've managed to almost completely rip of the front passenger flare, I've scored the front driver's flare pretty good, and did a nice little number to the passenger fender's lower section and the passenger rocker. I also removed the rear bumper corners to prevent them from suffering the same fate as the flares. So now some more pics:














I have also opted to remove the swaybars to help with flex... a move I may reverse. I need to get around to putting them back on and wheelin it some more to see what i think. Also, for the noting, the truck currently has zero lift, with the exception of a 1.75" coil spacer in the front to help level it back for the bumper weight.

I added a Ramsey winch to the front since I've bought it as well... Coming up soon will be some baseline measurements and specs to help measure the changes. Next step (following measurements) will be a 1" body lift with flare removal. This will be followed by custom sliders and a rear winch bumper. Then most likely Hurculining the exterior... I hate to do it cause its so pretty, but it wont stay pretty for long as a trail rig... so Hurculiner will at least keep it looking decent. Plus it will be hard to wash, polish, and buff paint when its being covered with an EXO. Which reminds me... Michael, do you think you can build this for mine: http://www.yotatech.com/f88/2nd-gen-4runner-exo-cage-57254/index2.html#post906313

Current Measurements:
- Taken with a full tank, the passenger side 3rd row installed, and the spare and a small toolbox in the drivers side 3rd row area, and all tires at 35psi.

 

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So, lets jump to today. My ingenious idea not to wheel it until i had armor didnt quite work out as planned. Currently I've managed to almost completely rip of the front passenger flare, I've scored the front driver's flare pretty good, and did a nice little number to the passenger fender's lower section and the passenger rocker. I also removed the rear bumper corners to prevent them from suffering the same fate as the flares. So now some more pics:

(INSERT CURRENT PICS HERE)

I have also opted to remove the swaybars to help with flex... a move I may reverse. I need to get around to putting them back on and wheelin it some more to see what i think. Also, for the noting, the truck currently has zero lift, with the exception of a coil spacer in the front to help level it back for the bumper weight.

I added a Ramsey winch to the front since I've bought it as well... Coming up soon will be some baseline measurements and specs to help measure the changes. Next step (following measurements) will be a 1" body lift with flare removal. This will be followed by custom sliders and a rear winch bumper. Then most likely Hurculining the exterior... I hate to do it cause its so pretty, but it wont stay pretty for long as a trail rig... so Hurculiner will at least keep it looking decent. Plus it will be hard to wash, polish, and buff paint when its being covered with an EXO. Which reminds me... Michael, do you think you can build this for mine: http://www.yotatech.com/f88/2nd-gen-4runner-exo-cage-57254/index2.html#post906313
I can but with a rig as heavy as yours, it wouldnt do much good in a roll. I have a friend with a Grand Cherokee with a simular cage( no braces between the doors) and it bent enough to hurt the body, and cave the roof at the drivers head. That cage looks good, but why not triangulate the middle section of the roof, and figure out some way to brace the cage between the doors, if your going to all that work.

There is such a span between bends from the a pillars to the rear upper corners that it would be difficult, but doable to have all that as one pice. Another thing to note is how many attachment points there are for the cage. It just seems like it should be more. I would have the doors screwed up in no time flat on that rig.


You have a nice fj. I would hate to see you ugly it up with a full exo cage, but some armor is a must.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i know... everyone says its too nice to wheel... but thats what i bought it for. its a wheelin rig. i know it looks nice, but its a wheelin rig. all it has to do is do some double duty for a DD in the winter when it gets bad, so its gotta stay legal, but its a toy.

I agree on the doors, but I'm not sure how to pull it off... Thats where you come in. The primary reason is to keep crap off the glass and off the drip rail... i.e. protect the when off camber against trees. the second reason is keep stuff out of the body and the lights, so the truck stays legal. 3rd reason is protection in a flop (which will happen), namely glass and heavy body damage.. 4th, if possible is protection against a full roll. Its that latter one im worried cant be done without bracing through the cab.

I really think its going to get a full exo. or at least as much to accomplish reasons 1-3 which i think if we got that far, might as well go full exo and take care of reason 4.
 

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That sure is a nice 80. I admire your conviction - I couldn't bring myself to exo or do the exterior in bedliner till I scratched it up a bit first. ..... but that's just me:eek:
 

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In a flop the body will move inside the cage and damage to the body , from the cage is likley. We might have to check into some polyurethane body mounts and possibly remove the bolt sleeves from the body mounts if there are any on this model toyota. Those 2 things will make for a little rougher ride but it would help immensly when you get ready for that cage. I could also try to figure in a larger minimal distance of tube to body to help, but that makes for an uglier design.
Its gonna take a while to digest the sheer idea of exoing such a nice rig. :(

i know... everyone says its too nice to wheel... but thats what i bought it for. its a wheelin rig. i know it looks nice, but its a wheelin rig. all it has to do is do some double duty for a DD in the winter when it gets bad, so its gotta stay legal, but its a toy.

I agree on the doors, but I'm not sure how to pull it off... Thats where you come in. The primary reason is to keep crap off the glass and off the drip rail... i.e. protect the when off camber against trees. the second reason is keep stuff out of the body and the lights, so the truck stays legal. 3rd reason is protection in a flop (which will happen), namely glass and heavy body damage.. 4th, if possible is protection against a full roll. Its that latter one im worried cant be done without bracing through the cab.

I really think its going to get a full exo. or at least as much to accomplish reasons 1-3 which i think if we got that far, might as well go full exo and take care of reason 4.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok... i need to know more about the sleeve in the body mounts you're referring too... I have all the body mounts off right now for a small body lift... 1" now would be the perfect time to tinker with that. I'll post the current pics tonight.. it will make you guys feel better. it shows scratches and dirty paint, and the dents to the passenger side.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also picked up some tanks today for the OBA.... woohoo. now i just need to get the bumper done so i can see how much room i have for tanks (because of the rear winch), then work on the plumbing supplies and get a pressure switch... so many cool parts to this project, i'm stoked.
 

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ok... i need to know more about the sleeve in the body mounts you're referring too... I have all the body mounts off right now for a small body lift... 1" now would be the perfect time to tinker with that. I'll post the current pics tonight.. it will make you guys feel better. it shows scratches and dirty paint, and the dents to the passenger side.
Some toys have a sleeve that runs through both bushings(upper, and lower) this sleeve acts like a stopper of sorts to keep the bolts from being over tightend, and causing the busings premature wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well, i know its at least got sleeves through part of the bushings. and they dont look easy to remove. should i try to remove them? I'm assuming this will hold the body tighter to the frame? Also, all the bushings look to be in awesome shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Baseline pics added....

Also got all the rest of the body lift supplies today... I love working in Maintenance and having contacts with all kinds of suppliers! Makes getting stuff easy and cheaper.

And, the body lift is ready to go on. Radiator mounts removed, ready to be drilled, one side of the truck has the bolts removed, other side has them loosened up. Now its just find the time to jack it up, and install the pucks.
 

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well, i know its at least got sleeves through part of the bushings. and they dont look easy to remove. should i try to remove them? I'm assuming this will hold the body tighter to the frame? Also, all the bushings look to be in awesome shape.
Rubber new or worn will flex more that polyurethane. Removing the sleeves will allow you to over tighten the bolts , therefore not allowing the body to move as much. I wouldnt do both but Before you cage it I would prolly do one or the other. Its not something that has to be done right now, but keep it in consideration.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Heres what my current thoughts/plans are: at a later time (read cage installation) we pull off the nuts, move the bolts up a bit, and take a die cutter/grinder to the sleeves and shorten them, thus accomplishing the ability to slightly overtighten while still preserving the sleeves for a structural failsafe. I think it will accomplish the same end. (may also install poly at the same time...) thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well all the flares came off, with the exception of the rearmost 2. all they lack is just the removal. the door set of flares didnt cooperate, nor did the front drivers flare... i finally decided the hell with it and went to town... flares are off now, and the sheetmetal still looks good, so all is well.

Body lift is also installed. all 10 pucks are in and all 10 bolts are tight. everything is double nutted, with nylock nuts and grade 8 hardware. lower radiator brackets are modified and almost installed (they're in there, just not tightened up). The upper radiator mount is causing some serious headscratching.... im not sure exactly what im going to do yet. i cant figure out how to drill out the new holes without doing some serious disassembly.

I also spent about 2 hours figuring out the wiring schematic for the additions, and then figuring out what parts i needed and where its all going to go. the i get out to the truck and im thinking thats not going to work. The wiring is all still good, now i just need to figure out where everything is going to go. then comes figuring out where the wiring is going to be routed... too much stuff goin in... im seriously wonderin about alternator capacity issues.

I also determined that the place I want to buy the switches from to control the electronics is being REALLY slow at returning emails. IF anyone knows of a good place to get switches that are LED lit with nice labeling like winch, air, rock lights and so on lemme know. And I'm thinking about using some LED lights that autozone has for rock lights... curious if anyone has ever tried them. according to my sources they're only about 14 bucks and decently bright, so i fugure its worth spending the 14 bucks and investigating.

For those that are curious, my wiring nitemare involves the following...
1. Front and rear winch with in cab controls.
2. On board air with pressure switch and in cab master switch to start the system
3. Rock lights, 2 stage. first stage will be just tires, second stage will be tires, axles, and full undercarriage.
4. Front flood lights setup to turn on with the master in cab switch, or be off at all times, or turn on with the bright lights.
5. Rear flood lights to do the same as the front floods except have the ability to come on when in reverse. both these sets of lights will be ran off of seperate DPDT switches where it will be ForcedOn-Off-OnWhenPrompted where the OnWhenPrompted means put in reverse or high beams on. Ought to be some cool stuff.
 

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Sounds like you've got a lot of work to do. For $14, you probably can't go wrong with the autozone lights. Might as well try them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sounds like you've got a lot of work to do. For $14, you probably can't go wrong with the autozone lights. Might as well try them.
see, thats what i was thinkin. for 14 dollars, if they work out, it will be a great thing for all wheelers... Will post how they work out and info.
 
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