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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So right now I'm piecing a sound system together and think I'm headed in the right direction but really have no clue since I'm new to the stereo gig. Here is what I have so far and what I plan on getting. I'm really just wondering how all of this will go together :D

Head unit: Pioneer DEH-4500MP (or was it 4600MP?)
Speakers: Polk DB650 6.5's all around
Sub: JL 12W3D4 (not installed yet)

For the amp I was just going to go cheap and get a Diesel audio 175Wx4ch amp for 100 bucks or so from Fry's. Bridge 2 channels to the sub (350 watts) and the other 2 channels to the 2 rear speakers (175 each). Unfortunately they are sold out on those so I might have to go another route.

As for the sub box, I'm not sure what to do. I've found some cheap sealed boxes on ebay that are the right cu. ft. for my sub (about 1.25 cu. ft.) and am a little weary of the quality but don't want to spend a bunch of money. Here is what I found...any experience with this stuff?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=300114674638&rd=1&rd=1

I'm really just looking for some better sound. I don't really listen to music loud unless it sounds good. Just recently I fixed the fucked up job Circuit City did putting my speakers in with some nice adapters that utilized all the screw holes :rolleyes: After installing those, it sounds MUCH better than before but I think it can be better with a little thump :D

Anyway, no more rambling. Let me know what you think :D Thanks
 

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Brain,

If you still are interested, my offer for the sub box still stands on the table. Just pay for materials and a little extra for me and my buddy to make it and carpet it.

175 per speaker sounds a little steep. I would double check the specs on the speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Brain,

If you still are interested, my offer for the sub box still stands on the table. Just pay for materials and a little extra for me and my buddy to make it and carpet it.

175 per speaker sounds a little steep. I would double check the specs on the speaker.
The Polks say 180w max on the back. Not sure if that means anything...

I think I might just end up having you guys build the box. I want something good :D Shall I pick up 2 sheets of MDF or 1?
 

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The Polks say 180w max on the back. Not sure if that means anything...

I think I might just end up having you guys build the box. I want something good :D Shall I pick up 2 sheets of MDF or 1?
It might take a couple sheets of MDF.

I think what we'll have to do to take up as little space as possible, is notch out the corners for your internal cage. Now if you wanted to get really fancy, we could cut it perfectly to the OD, and fiberglass so that it butts up perfect to it :cool:

Only problem: This weekend we have to do the Chili cookoff for Fremont, and the weekend after I'll be in Angels Camp. During the week I have work, but maybe we can work out a day after work.
 

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Brain -

Do you have a standard cab or an extended cab? If you have an extended cab its possible to cut out the rear storage cubbies and build sealed boxes in the walls for subs. I have 2 - MTX 8" subs mounted in the walls, and they don't take up any cab space. The won't win any competitions, but personally I like the tighter bass of smaller subs anyway, and they hit pretty hard for what they are. Here is a pic:



I also saw a mention of an in cab cage, so that might complicate things because you'd have to be able to get the rear panels out to build the boxes....

Also, I have the Pioneer DEH-P8600MP and I'm very happy with it. The only complaint is that when it gets hot the CD transport acts up sometimes.

More pics of my system here:

http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h154/bradleyem/Stereo System/
 

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Be careful with wiring a 4 channel amp. You mention bridging 2 channels to get 350 watts out of the Diesel amp. Note, this is stable at 4-Ohm and not 2-Ohm. If you have a Dual 4-Ohm sub, you can wire it to be either 2-Ohm or 8-Ohm. You would need either a Dual 2-Ohm sub or a Single 4-Ohm sub to safely get the maximum out of the amp without clipping it.

Also, cheaper amps normally do not put out their specified wattage. I would recommend running front and rear speakers off the headunit and buying an amp dedicated for your sub.

Other than that, it will sound decent for the money. Pioneer and Polk make decent products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have an extended cab and I took out the rear platform since the rear seats would've been deemed useless with the cage anyway. I'd like to put subs where the stock speakers go but I like having 4 speakers since sometimes I run without doors.

I think I'm going to go forward with having a box made. I think I'm going to make some angle iron brackets coming off the cage to hold the box in one spot and I can bolt it down fairly easily. I'll also be able to make the sub down-firing so it doesn't sound like the sub is pointing in anyones general direction.

Phill, I don't think I want a huge box that'll take up the entire back. I really just want something with enough air space in a very simple box (probably totally square or rectangular) for easy mounting to the cage. Maybe I'll even make my own if I go that simple :D Now if only I could figure out the dimensions of the box I need...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Be careful with wiring a 4 channel amp. You mention bridging 2 channels to get 350 watts out of the Diesel amp. Note, this is stable at 4-Ohm and not 2-Ohm. If you have a Dual 4-Ohm sub, you can wire it to be either 2-Ohm or 8-Ohm. You would need either a Dual 2-Ohm sub or a Single 4-Ohm sub to safely get the maximum out of the amp without clipping it.

Also, cheaper amps normally do not put out their specified wattage. I would recommend running front and rear speakers off the headunit and buying an amp dedicated for your sub.

Other than that, it will sound decent for the money. Pioneer and Polk make decent products.
Thanks for your input! That's a good idea to just get an amp to run the sub. Would probably cut down on costs too :D How do I know what ohm my sub is by looking at it??? It's an old version of a W3 :confused: :confused:
 

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Thanks for your input! That's a good idea to just get an amp to run the sub. Would probably cut down on costs too :D How do I know what ohm my sub is by looking at it??? It's an old version of a W3 :confused: :confused:
You can get a digital multimeter and checked the Ohms on each voice coil with it.
 

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It should say it somewhere on the sub. Check the magnet on the back. If not, just google it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK I found out the sub I have is a dual 4ohm sub. JL recommends a 250 RMS wattage for the sub, would I be best off finding a 1 channel 4ohm amp that puts out 250-350 watts? I know some amps don't like running at 2ohm.

Someone teach me! LOL :D
 

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OK I found out the sub I have is a dual 4ohm sub. JL recommends a 250 RMS wattage for the sub, would I be best off finding a 1 channel 4ohm amp that puts out 250-350 watts? I know some amps don't like running at 2ohm.

Someone teach me! LOL :D
Get a mono amplifier. Some hae two speaker outs so you can run both coil's at 4-ohms with out a problem. Mono's also sound a lot better with subs because it limit's the frequencies to the sub unlike a stereo amplifier. I used to have a 4 channel stereo amp that I bridged to run two subs and when I went to the mono amp I saw a world of difference.

Check Ebay for some good deals and if you can wait - just make sure it's not refurbished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Get a mono amplifier. Some hae two speaker outs so you can run both coil's at 4-ohms with out a problem. Mono's also sound a lot better with subs because it limit's the frequencies to the sub unlike a stereo amplifier. I used to have a 4 channel stereo amp that I bridged to run two subs and when I went to the mono amp I saw a world of difference.

Check Ebay for some good deals and if you can wait - just make sure it's not refurbished.
So what would you recommend for an amp? I saw this amp on Crutchfield. Looks to be pretty good with the 3 year warranty :) Rated at 310w at 4ohms.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Jy1HWn5HcQK/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP1000M
 

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Are you running a single amp to power the sub? If so which one? I like that setup :)
ii think i posted the measurements of the enclosure in the past, if not, i will soon.
a guy from JL helped me design the enclosure which is custom fit for the extended cab portion behind the driver seat.

i am pushing it with a MTX 421D, connected to the batt with 4 guage. i have the amp mounted under the driver seat to keep it out of view.

i could not be happier with the sound and output- the mofo hits low and thumps hard.

*i am a huge fan of the MTX amps- they bench test way higher than their listed RMS.
 

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If you want a cleam sounding sub, buy amps by going off the THD rating.

This is how much distortion there is at 1 decible. For instance, a THD rating of .01% would yield to 1% distortion at 100 decibles.


The lower the THD, the cleaner your sub sounds (or speakers)
 

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So what would you recommend for an amp? I saw this amp on Crutchfield. Looks to be pretty good with the 3 year warranty :) Rated at 310w at 4ohms.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Jy1HWn5HcQK/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP1000M
That is a great amp for the $s. It's rated at 500 watts at 2 ohms, thats the load a dual 4 ohm sub presents when wired in parellel (both positives and both negatives run to the pos and neg terminals on the amp).

I have a buddy who is running Profile amps he bought 2 years ago as refurbs, they sound really good and are easy on the budget. Just remember that a Profile amp (or any low cost) will probably put out right at or a little less than rated power, while a more expensive amp might make more than it's rating.
 

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That is a great amp for the $s. It's rated at 500 watts at 2 ohms, thats the load a dual 4 ohm sub presents when wired in parellel (both positives and both negatives run to the pos and neg terminals on the amp).

I have a buddy who is running Profile amps he bought 2 years ago as refurbs, they sound really good and are easy on the budget. Just remember that a Profile amp (or any low cost) will probably put out right at or a little less than rated power, while a more expensive amp might make more than it's rating.
stfu and let the people who know what they are talking about help this kid out.

he is going to run JL subs- you want him to use a POS amp?
do you wear a helmet?

OP- do yourself a favor and read as much from here,
 
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