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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, this might sound stupid, but I cannot for the life of me get this POS aftermarket cv axle (new!) to come out of my differential tube. I've been spouting stuff that would make Benny Hill blush.

What the hell is going on with this thing? The old one came out with just sudden "push" with the prybar, and then this one went in with almost the same ease. I mean it wasn't easy, but it wasn't something that anyone that knows how to use a set of tools couldn't handle. It also wasn't pushed in too far. Once I had gotten it to start to slide into the splines with a couple precise wraps of the hammer, I pushed it into the snap-ring groove with hand force.

But the damned thing just will not pop out. I am really prying at the friggin thing. For the love of Mary.

If anyone has had this issue feel free to chime in.

The reason I am taking the thing out is because it isn't worth the $70 bones that I paid for it, let alone $10. It binds during it's revolution when the suspension is at droop and that is something that the OEM didn't even do. Furthermore, when spinning the axle to it's points of bind up, I can see it actually pulling in and out (just slightly) from the diff. This POS is going back as soon as I can wrangle it from the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You know I think that I need to get a stouter prybar. The one I have is about a 20 inch mini crow bar, and it is flexing like hell. Alright, out I go again. Show this POS who's boss :rolleyes:
 

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Try knocking it out from the other side. I've had stubbon CV axles that didn't want to come out with the pry method. The best thing do to for those is to take a BFH and large screwdriver and wack the CV from the opposite side.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
alright, just ate some lunch. Harold, do you mean clear through from the other cv's side? I am going to keep prying and check back.
 

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i had this happen to me a twice now. its always the drivers side too. i actually broke the corner of my pry bar off trying to get it out lol. try taking the pry bar at the 3'oclock position and either a big flat head screw driver or another pry bar at the 9'oclock position. that way it pulls it straight out instead of having one pry bar forcing it up and out. it worked for me so idk just an idea.
 

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I will second the two pry bar method..........that is what I did to get mine out.
 

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I always start with a BFH and a chisel and lay under the front diff and start wacking away for a while and then I try the pry bar. If the pry bar doesn't work, I go back to the BFH, then the pry bar...eventually it will come out.

Hope this helps.

Ryan.
 

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You need to pry it out. That is what those three groves around the outer edge of the tulip joint are for.
 

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Use a brass drift & hammer- keep turning it 120 degrees.
 

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3 o'clock, 9 o'clock, 6 o'clock.......12 o'clock seems impossible but I think you'll get it out. What axles you got in there anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey guys, thanks for all the responses. I ended up getting it out by just prying the living shit out of it. Popped out with a "snap". Mangled that dust seal too. That dust seal was worthless, and caused the diff to weep slowly, I think because it was slightly to short in how it extended. But even if it were profiled like the OEM it would have still wept because as the axle went around it's rev's it would pull in-and-out of the differential just slightly...just so prone to bind up.

Cleaned up the old one, put it back in, and zero issues like this one had. Even after I torqued it up and made it barf out all that grease a month or so ago, it still works better than that POS. Something to be said for OEM. I think I'll get OEM reman's.

The brand that I got was I think Power Line? I got them from Advanced Auto Parts and they come in a blue and black box. Made in China, and the only one's they offer there. Steer clear. Not worth the money (which was only $70 or so) even if they are lifetime replacement. They took them back without a problem.

Thanks again for the help guys, next time I have this happen I'll do the multiple angle prying technique like a lot of you said. I think that will definitely help to not flex the living shit out of the diff tube.

Jon
 

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barnaby said:
Cleaned up the old one, put it back in, and zero issues like this one had. Even after I torqued it up and made it barf out all that grease a month or so ago, it still works better than that POS. Something to be said for OEM. I think I'll get OEM reman's.

The brand that I got was I think Power Line? I got them from Advanced Auto Parts and they come in a blue and black box. Made in China, and the only one's they offer there. Steer clear. Not worth the money (which was only $70 or so) even if they are lifetime replacement. They took them back without a problem.
That's good info!

...So where's a good source for reman'd OEMs?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm pretty sure that you can get them through TOP, one of our sponsors here. You have to send in your core, but it is OEM and after the core is sent in the price is about the same as after market. Like 125 or so.
 

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pulling out cv axles

is there some trick to it or are you supposed to just pry them out somehow. its on a 2000 tacoma. sorry guys i don't really have much time to search
 

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There is a little flat cut into them that you can get a prybar in to pop them loose past the c-clip, then they come right out (along with some diff fluid if you're not careful)
 

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is there some trick to it or are you supposed to just pry them out somehow. its on a 2000 tacoma. sorry guys i don't really have much time to search
a decent pri-bar is pretty much an essential tool for this. the longer handled ones make things easier. I picked up a 3-pc pkg for under $20. Sometimes it can be a little tough to get them to pop out so rotate the axle 1/4 turn and
try again...may take a couple turns.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/
 
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