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Discussion Starter #1
I Installed A Throttle Body Spacer And Cold Air Intake
And About A Week Later My Chk Engine Light Came On.
Took It To Auto Zone And They Hooked Up Their Scanner And It Read
Mass Air Flow. They Cleared The Code But About A Mile Down The Road It Came Back On, Runs Ok Though. What Ya Think?
 

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gearhead said:
I Installed A Throttle Body Spacer And Cold Air Intake
And About A Week Later My Chk Engine Light Came On.
Took It To Auto Zone And They Hooked Up Their Scanner And It Read
Mass Air Flow. They Cleared The Code But About A Mile Down The Road It Came Back On, Runs Ok Though. What Ya Think?
what intake kit? oiled filter? did you over oil it? ;)
 

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gearhead said:
I Installed A Throttle Body Spacer And Cold Air Intake
And About A Week Later My Chk Engine Light Came On.
Took It To Auto Zone And They Hooked Up Their Scanner And It Read
Mass Air Flow. They Cleared The Code But About A Mile Down The Road It Came Back On, Runs Ok Though. What Ya Think?
First of all, welcome to the site. St. Louis guy here.

Second, before you waste anymore of your money buying aftermarket stuff, do a LOT of reading here. Throttle body spacers are a complete waste of money. I'm also curious as to what cai you bought. We could have saved you a bunch of money and heartache here.

As far as your check engine light goes, I'm shocked that Autozone cleared the code. That's actually illegal...at least in Missouri. Anyway, more than likely, a good first step for you would be to remove the mass air flow sensor and clean it with some electrical parts cleaner. Let it get good and dry before you install it. Re-install it and clear the codes. See how that works out for you. If that doesn't do it, let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
01 tacoma 2.7 i bought the cai off ebay (cheap one) it was ok for a while and i was creeping at about 10 mph changing a cd in my stero when the light came on. by the way i had a chip from ebay that i connected to my coolant temp sensor which was supposed to make the computer think coolant temp is cold for
more fuel and supposedly hp. well i took the chip back off. i think it threw a code for coolant temp also .
been thinking about putting the stock airfilter box back on with a k&n filter to see if that helps. thanks for the help and welcome.
 

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gearhead said:
01 tacoma 2.7 i bought the cai off ebay (cheap one) it was ok for a while and i was creeping at about 10 mph changing a cd in my stero when the light came on. by the way i had a chip from ebay that i connected to my coolant temp sensor which was supposed to make the computer think coolant temp is cold for
more fuel and supposedly hp. well i took the chip back off. i think it threw a code for coolant temp also
LOL, another "chip" story :rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
tried cleaning maf sensor and disconnect battery to clear codes but comes back on.
think maybe with that chip i was burning too rich mixture and did something to ox sensor?
 

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Ok, here's what you need to do. First thing....go out and take off the CAI, the throttle body spacer, and your "chip" and put them all in a box and back your truck over them...REPEATEDLY. Once they're good and crushed, come back in and let me know. The next thing you need to do is make sure the MAF is clean. Then pull the EFI fuse or go back down to the Zone and have them clear the codes again. Disconnecting the battery cable on a vehicle with OBDII won't clear the codes. Then drive the truck for awhile. If that doesn't do it, then get the codes reread and post them here. We'll go from there.
 

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jester_motorsports said:
Ok, here's what you need to do. First thing....go out and take off the CAI, the throttle body spacer, and your "chip" and put them all in a box and back your truck over them...REPEATEDLY. Once they're good and crushed, come back in and let me know. The next thing you need to do is make sure the MAF is clean. Then pull the EFI fuse or go back down to the Zone and have them clear the codes again. Disconnecting the battery cable on a vehicle with OBDII won't clear the codes. Then drive the truck for awhile. If that doesn't do it, then get the codes reread and post them here. We'll go from there.
I don't know about these codes being isolated to the stupid air mods. There are plenty of people running these things with no code issues like that. My guess would of been a dirty MAF, but apparently it is otherwise. I would start with getting rid of that stupid ebay chip. If he popping multiple codes like a coolant temp circuit code or whatever that is then I would start there. More times than not when one code is created another "ghost" code accompanies it. Apparently he doesn't have access to a code reader or active tests or anything, so he can't really look at it that way... my advise throw the chip into the highway and start from there... its not a 3/4 ton diesel, if you want more hp buy a s/c :)
 

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gearhead said:
tried cleaning maf sensor and disconnect battery to clear codes but comes back on.
think maybe with that chip i was burning too rich mixture and did something to ox sensor?
... also pulling the neg terminal is not the most efficient way to clear a code. Pull the EFI fuse for 5 seconds so your ecu's don't have to re learn everything :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
cool! thanks jester. i threw away the chip about 6 months ago. gotta go to work i'll update ya. hope the roads are ok to wentzville area.
 

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sexy.taco said:
I don't know about these codes being isolated to the stupid air mods. There are plenty of people running these things with no code issues like that. My guess would of been a dirty MAF, but apparently it is otherwise. I would start with getting rid of that stupid ebay chip. If he popping multiple codes like a coolant temp circuit code or whatever that is then I would start there. More times than not when one code is created another "ghost" code accompanies it. Apparently he doesn't have access to a code reader or active tests or anything, so he can't really look at it that way... my advise throw the chip into the highway and start from there... its not a 3/4 ton diesel, if you want more hp buy a s/c :)
Yeah, I was just trying to get him back to a base, starting point. That way it's a little easier to pinpoint where the exact cause is coming from. That, and none of that stuff really does anything for him. :)
 

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jester_motorsports said:
Yeah, I was just trying to get him back to a base, starting point. That way it's a little easier to pinpoint where the exact cause is coming from. That, and none of that stuff really does anything for him. :)
Well apparently I thought enough of the CAI that came with my last truck that it never went back on the new truck, I sold it. Although I didn't have any CELs with this one or the one I had on my 4Runner, I'm inclined to say if a mod is causing it that it might be more relative to the throttle body spacer. But if removing said mods doesn't fix it I would say look up the relative fsm and ewd and insure the maf is operating as it should. This all assuming that the 'system to lean' code is the only one :dunno:
 

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sexy.taco said:
Well apparently I thought enough of the CAI that came with my last truck that it never went back on the new truck, I sold it. Although I didn't have any CELs with this one or the one I had on my 4Runner, I'm inclined to say if a mod is causing it that it might be more relative to the throttle body spacer. But if removing said mods doesn't fix it I would say look up the relative fsm and ewd and insure the maf is operating as it should. This all assuming that the 'system to lean' code is the only one :dunno:
Yup yup. I've got a constant CEL myself. It comes and goes though which is a bit odd. It'll go off for several days to a week. Then it just pops back on and stays on for days/weeks at a time. It's a "system too lean" code as well....I believe it also said "bank 1, sensor 1 too lean" or something of the sort. A buddy of mine has a shop and hooked up the Snap-On diagnostic to it. He wasn't convinced though that it was necessarily a bad O2 sensor for sure. He thought it could be a vacuum leak somewhere but finding one of those is pretty damn difficult. My only problem with that is that I'd figure if it was a vacuum leak, it would be on all the time and not just some of the time. I dunno. It's more annoying than anything and my gas mileage sucks cock. I need to regear my truck big time and I know that it's winter gas time as well, but still.
 

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jester_motorsports said:
Yup yup. I've got a constant CEL myself. It comes and goes though which is a bit odd. It'll go off for several days to a week. Then it just pops back on and stays on for days/weeks at a time. It's a "system too lean" code as well....I believe it also said "bank 1, sensor 1 too lean" or something of the sort. A buddy of mine has a shop and hooked up the Snap-On diagnostic to it. He wasn't convinced though that it was necessarily a bad O2 sensor for sure. He thought it could be a vacuum leak somewhere but finding one of those is pretty damn difficult. My only problem with that is that I'd figure if it was a vacuum leak, it would be on all the time and not just some of the time. I dunno. It's more annoying than anything and my gas mileage sucks cock. I need to regear my truck big time and I know that it's winter gas time as well, but still.
I'd be inclined to say its the front O2 sensor... if he has the snap on handheld he should be able to active test your system and see the O2 readings and tell you off the bat whether the sensor is faulty. Like I said a PO171 in its own is usually isolated to the maf, but combined with other codes (ie: O2 codes) you'd want to look at the other components, in most cases, first...
 

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sexy.taco said:
I'd be inclined to say its the front O2 sensor... if he has the snap on handheld he should be able to active test your system and see the O2 readings and tell you off the bat whether the sensor is faulty. Like I said a PO171 in its own is usually isolated to the maf, but combined with other codes (ie: O2 codes) you'd want to look at the other components, in most cases, first...
Next time I'm in town (my hometown where his shop is at) I'll have to have him hook it up again. This Snap-On thing he's got is a handheld deal. Is that the same thing you're talking about?

This damn MAF was replaced probably about a year and a half ago. I'd love to think that they shouldn't go bad that quickly but I'm sure it's possible. Sucks though.
 

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jester_motorsports said:
Next time I'm in town (my hometown where his shop is at) I'll have to have him hook it up again. This Snap-On thing he's got is a handheld deal. Is that the same thing you're talking about?

This damn MAF was replaced probably about a year and a half ago. I'd love to think that they shouldn't go bad that quickly but I'm sure it's possible. Sucks though.
They shouldn't go bad that quickly. Typically they really don't go bad, just dirty. Unless you stick a Q-tip in it and destroy the wire sensor, I know someone who did that...

Well the handheld tester that I used was a Toyota one, but the Snap On ones do the same thing... since most all if not all newer vehicle work off an DLCII system you can hook a tester like that to anything with that connection and read codes and depending on software proceed with further diag processes. Your fsm should give you tolerance levels for O2 sensors if neither of you know what means good and what means bad.
 

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sexy.taco said:
They shouldn't go bad that quickly. Typically they really don't go bad, just dirty. Unless you stick a Q-tip in it and destroy the wire sensor, I know someone who did that...

Well the handheld tester that I used was a Toyota one, but the Snap On ones do the same thing... since most all if not all newer vehicle work off an DLCII system you can hook a tester like that to anything with that connection and read codes and depending on software proceed with further diag processes. Your fsm should give you tolerance levels for O2 sensors if neither of you know what means good and what means bad.
Yep, I've kept the Q-tips out of there. Just hosed it down a couple of times with electronics cleaner. I didn't think it should be bad yet.

I'll have to check with him to see what his tester can do. Thanks for the info Nic!
 

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jester_motorsports said:
Yep, I've kept the Q-tips out of there. Just hosed it down a couple of times with electronics cleaner. I didn't think it should be bad yet.

I'll have to check with him to see what his tester can do. Thanks for the info Nic!
well if its been 1.5 yrs since you last cleaned it, might want to take some brake clean and compressed air and clean 'er out again, clear codes and see what happens... although I seriously doubt that will do a whole lot for the O2 code
 
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