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Wow. Great mod. Just did this to my 01 Taco SAS FJ60 front end, has tilt, and I ran two substantial 1/2" welds on my steering shaft. That fixed it ....forever. :smile2:
No more play or rattle when I hit a bump offroad anymore.

I marked everything and re-assembled it in the same splines and everything is the same exact way it was before.

Thanks
ZUK
 

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I would highly suggest that you cut those welds down. They're supposed to be tiny tac welds for a reason. In the event of a front end collision, that joint is supposed to collapse upon itself so the steering wheel doesn't rip you're face off.
 

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I would highly suggest that you cut those welds down. They're supposed to be tiny tac welds for a reason. In the event of a front end collision, that joint is supposed to collapse upon itself so the steering wheel doesn't rip you're face off.
Sounds good in theory. Imagine the forces required to collapse the entire frontal section of the Truck enough to cause the column piece to move chest-wards......it would be somewhere's upwards of 160 kph. The crush zone all the way up to the firewall where the column is will protect the crash dummy to a speed that approaches unreachable.

Here is 56 kph into a brick wall


Everybody in that thread could have chosen to do a full weld with no real concerns. They over-thought it....they imagined a steering column thrusting into their chest....keyword "imagined".... Most of us modify our trucks in far more dangerous ways.

No such examples on the internet are available and it is for a reason....it does not happen in real life. Vote for Don.
 

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Actually it does and it can. Head on collision? Hitting the driver side corner? Remember in a head on, just because you're traveling 55, does not mean you collided at 55. The other car is added too. So now let's say both cars, travel at 55. You've essentially hit at 110.

https://youtu.be/8LlbW_0v8iw

Here's the tacoma corner test at 40... Looks like the column moves quite a bit...


Not saying to nix this mod. A small tack wouldn't hurt. If you're really concerned, you could drill and tap the female portion, and put a set screw. It will take up the slop, but in a collision the slip can slide. This is how borgeson does their shafts



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Actually it does and it can. Head on collision? Hitting the driver side corner? Remember in a head on, just because you're traveling 55, does not mean you collided at 55. The other car is added too. So now let's say both cars, travel at 55. You've essentially hit at 110.
That's not actually true, if the other car is uncompressible then yes but both cars crush under impact and absorb the inertia at some rate.

I did one small tack and its the best thing I've done to this truck. I marked everything with a sharpie to make sure it was lined up perfectly. Quick and easy stellar results and free, my favorite.
 

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That's not actually true, if the other car is uncompressible then yes but both cars crush under impact and absorb the inertia at some rate.

I did one small tack and its the best thing I've done to this truck. I marked everything with a sharpie to make sure it was lined up perfectly. Quick and easy stellar results and free, my favorite.
Correct, not comparable to a wall at 110. It would be the same if you hit that same car at 110...

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Great Fix, Worked for Me

Thanks for write ups, easy to find. The fix worked on my 04 Tacoma, took slack and clunk out of steering. I did have to rent a welder at Home Depot.

I also found this youtube of fix helpful:
 

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Slip Joint VS Tie Rods?

This is an awesome thread. But can anyone explain how to tell if this slip joint is the problem area, as opposed to inner tie rod ends or rack bushings? My understanding is the symptoms would be the same...

I have a slight play in my steering wheel, (1/2" side to side before the wheels turn). There is an audible knocking sound when I turn from right to left and it gets worse on rocky roads. I'm not having a drifting problem on the highway though.

When I reach under the steering wheel and grab the steering column and turn my wheel I can feel some play. But how do I know the play isn't in my tie rods or rack? My thought is I should jack up my truck and move the wheel side to side to see if the movement is down in the tie rods. If I don't feel movement in the wheels then I guess it would eliminate tie rods?

Anybody have experience determining if the noise/play is in the steering slip joint vs other components?
 

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When I reach under the steering wheel and grab the steering column and turn my wheel I can feel some play. But how do I know the play isn't in my tie rods or rack? My thought is I should jack up my truck and move the wheel side to side to see if the movement is down in the tie rods. If I don't feel movement in the wheels then I guess it would eliminate tie rods?
If you grab the column, you're not allowing anything lower down to move, so I'd assume that eliminates anything below where you're grabbing as the culprit. It means the play is above where you're grabbing, right?
 

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Hey Guys,

I gave this a go last night and cannot seem to get the steering column to go back into the female end down in the floor. I have the splines lined up correctly but it still won't go in. How much force do you have to apply to get it to slide back in. Any advice on this would be super helpful as my truck's steering column is sitting in the passenger seat and it is parked in my friends driveway currently.... Thanks!! (I have a 2000 Toyota Tacoma)
 

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I did this over the weekend to my 1998 Tacoma, and decided to test SafetyDang's assertion that JB Weld wouldn't work. It didn't last 3 miles of driving. Now I'll have it tack welded. It felt good while it lasted.

I used the tips from post #42 that made it go a lot quicker. I had the column out in maybe 20 mins. Unlike that post, however, I had to undo the two right-most screws from the lower panel and pop out the small panel around the ignition in order to have the room to get my 6mm socket in the right side allen bolt. For the left side, I only had room to fit the 6mm socket without the wrench, and used a box end 1/4" wrench around the allen part of the socket to rotate it. I'm not sure how that guy managed to do it otherwise (maybe he had a simple L-shaped allen tool), but it wasn't a big deal to remove and make this work.
 

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Steering wheel clunk on 2nd gen (2013)

I think I have the same issue on my 2013 TRD Sport 4x4. I have a 3" Toytec lift and 32 tires. Does anyone know if there is the same fix for 2nd gens? I get major clunking and the wheel pulling back and forth going of any sort of bumpy road, especially dirt roads.
 

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Hello, all.

First post over here and very glad to have found this thread. I have been a member over at toyota-4runner.org for a while (since I own a 4runner) but I can tell there is a ton of knowledge and helpfulness in this community.

I'm thinking about doing this tomorrow when I have a little time in the afternoon.

It seems the disassembly is pretty straight forward (famous last words) but a couple things worry me; forgive my ignorance!

First of all, in reading the following I was a bit confused as to what it means and when to do it. Before disassembly?

Make sure to start with the steering wheel straight. Then tape or tie the wheel to the column assembly to prevent it from turning and screwing up the spiral cable centering.
Also,

1. What specifically needs to be marked for reassembly purposes so as to ensure everything is back the way it was originally?

2. What should I look out for in terms of the cases where the wheel became hard to turn towards the end of rotation after this fix? That worries me a bit.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated!

JT
 

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tight steering after applying steering fix

Thank you very much for this post. 2004 Tacoma. Lived with problem too long. Had a mechanic do this fix. Mistake. Charged 3 hours. Probably took 1.5 hrs or less. Tight steering afterwards like two other posts. This fix is really is quite easy except for the welding. This is a good fix. Fixed my problem as described in other posts.
However. Had Tight steering, like two others. This might be a fix for tight steering. This fixed my tight steering problem. Feels like something binding. In an curve, steering stays, stuck in arc when steering wheel is released. Discovered, beneath the inside cover at the universal joint/shaft at the fire wall below dashboard, shaft was off center, not centered in seal. Had to disconnect, remove the bolt at joint where the upper shaft meets lower shaft and loosen and remove bolt at the spline insertion point at the rack and pinion. Physically adjust the shafts/joint and center at this point, this is at the seal beneath the dashboard being being at the firewall. It is obvious by inspection when not centered. Just grab and move up and down until centered. tighten bolts afterwards, do not let it slip back to the previously bad alignment position. Keep it centered. Mechanic should have noticed this.
 

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Hi,
I own a european version Land-Cruiser Prado (2002). I had the same deadzone problem.
Followed the dissassembly instructions of #99 here, and it was indeed pretty straightforward, however I eould like to highlight some things:

1) Once you dissasemble the wheel be careful not to spin the combination switches too much. I ended up returning the wheel not knowing the combination switch was rotated 360 degrees, and almost snapped the rotary cables to the airbag/cruise/horn while turning

2) The two shaft parts near the pedals are a bit annoying to remove so be patient there. However dont forget to mark the orientation AND DEPTH of the connection

I've decided not to weld the two parts but to use a small puncher to create 12 dents in the outer side, two on each face. Let's see of it'll hold...
 

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made a video of the easier method!

Hey all, just wanted to post this video i made of the "quick" version of the weld mod (taking the whole column out as one piece) since I couldn't really find any solid videos out there. Hope this video can help! Thanks to all who originally came up with these fixes!
 
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