im about to start my exo/flatbed and was wondering what thickness yall would recommend for it, i will be using either 1.25 or 1.5 DOM and may buy some chromoly since i can get a bunch of it pretty cheap. also keep in mind ill be using a jb2 model 3 manual bender for it unless my buddy will let me borrow his tube shark which he uses every day for work.
DOM thickness for Exo
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.120 unless you are superman... LOLzszac111 said:what ID though? .120, .150 .200?? i dont have a way to heat treat the chromoly unless i throw it in the camp fire for a whilelol. guess ill go with regular DOM and be done with it.
some people on internal cages make the main tubes out of 1 1/2 .120 wall and all other bars out of 1 1/2 .90 wall...
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i'd stick w/ 2" x.120 wall on an exo. part of the point of an exo is to save the body, so if the cage crushes into the cab, have fun fixing both the cage and the cab.
1.5" will crush in a good hard multi roll pretty easily, but will hold up fine in a minor roll.
chromo is a bit overkill for low speed rock crawling rolls and is left for the race cars and baja guys. if you know how to work w/ it, it does earn extra bling points.
of course the most important is the design, mounting, etc.... doesnt help if your seats rip out and you get ejected thru your cage.
i have been upside down a few times, so stonger is better... you definetly think about it when your about to go over, and then as you sit there dangeling from your seat belt afterwards.
1.5" will crush in a good hard multi roll pretty easily, but will hold up fine in a minor roll.
chromo is a bit overkill for low speed rock crawling rolls and is left for the race cars and baja guys. if you know how to work w/ it, it does earn extra bling points.
of course the most important is the design, mounting, etc.... doesnt help if your seats rip out and you get ejected thru your cage.
i have been upside down a few times, so stonger is better... you definetly think about it when your about to go over, and then as you sit there dangeling from your seat belt afterwards.
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Why would you have to heat treat it?? I asked a friend at Porter, and they don't heat treat their trophy truck chassis.... And Ducati doesn't heat treat their motorcycle chassis. Like 12 world championships, and no heat treating. For chromo, the deal is proper heating around the welds to not spot harden them, making that area brittle. But, as it is 1/3 stronger than cold rolled(approximately), what is there to lose, other than the money top buy it??DesertTRD said:
The biggest problem with the stuff is paying for it.
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i used 1 3/4" .120 DOM for the main tubes, and 1 1/2 .120 DOM for the rest of the tubing for my in cab cage... .120 wall is what most people use for mild steel/DOM
as for the person who said chromo is 1/3 stronger so it doesnt matter... not necessarily true, people often use .95 because of the added strength in order to shed some of the weight, so technically it could infact be weaker than using mild steel, or DOM.
as for the person who said chromo is 1/3 stronger so it doesnt matter... not necessarily true, people often use .95 because of the added strength in order to shed some of the weight, so technically it could infact be weaker than using mild steel, or DOM.
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DesertTRD said:
i espescially love it when all that misc. crap on the floor nails you in the head and yardsales all over the place. I just grab the bottom of my seat, hold my head away from the window, and squeeze tightly...
snowchucker said:
lol. been there done that, hell i would probably die if it roled now, not from the role but from shit hitting me in the head since there is so much shit behind my seat. i usually clean it all out before a ride but i foreget sometimes
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