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So I am getting last minute parts fro my swap that is planned for this next weekend. One of the last parts i need is the drag link, and i would liek to get it before i start. to do so i need to know a length. i am putting on a d44 waggy and have asked around how long people's drag links are with this set up and is also leaf sprung. i have have heard 27'' is to short, 30'' is the best bet and 31 is the longest you can have it? i was just wondering how long your links were with this same set up and what you guess recomend pros and cons. thank you much
~jason
 

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So I am getting last minute parts fro my swap that is planned for this next weekend. One of the last parts i need is the drag link, and i would liek to get it before i start. to do so i need to know a length. i am putting on a d44 waggy and have asked around how long people's drag links are with this set up and is also leaf sprung. i have have heard 27'' is to short, 30'' is the best bet and 31 is the longest you can have it? i was just wondering how long your links were with this same set up and what you guess recomend pros and cons. thank you much
~jason
one question deserves a few more...

What steering are you running... 1 Ton chevies?

What steering arms...

Does your drag link mount to the passenger steering arm....or are you using the 1 ton right-hand tie rod and the drag link mounts to it?

What steering box are you running? Toy IFS, Scout?

I have a Waggy D44 with high-steer arms + spacers to get over the leaf springs. I have a Toy IFS box pushed pretty far forward on the frame. I use the 1 Ton Chevy steering setup and tie-rods. My drag link is 30" cut length.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
one question deserves a few more...

What steering are you running... 1 Ton chevies?

What steering arms...

Does your drag link mount to the passenger steering arm....or are you using the 1 ton right-hand tie rod and the drag link mounts to it?

What steering box are you running? Toy IFS, Scout?

I have a Waggy D44 with high-steer arms + spacers to get over the leaf springs. I have a Toy IFS box pushed pretty far forward on the frame. I use the 1 Ton Chevy steering setup and tie-rods. My drag link is 30" cut length.
sorry for not being spesific enough i understand your point, i am using a toy ifs box with, and it connects to the passenger high-steer arm in front of the tie rod, and i dont have a spacer under my steer arm it is directly on top of the nuckle.

do you have hiem joints or ball joints and how much thread do you have showing from adjustment?
 

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sorry for not being spesific enough i understand your point, i am using a toy ifs box with, and it connects to the passenger high-steer arm in front of the tie rod, and i dont have a spacer under my steer arm it is directly on top of the nuckle.

do you have hiem joints or ball joints and how much thread do you have showing from adjustment?
I have OE Chevrolet 1 Ton pickup truck tie rods. This setup has the drag link mount to the passenger tie rod end (there is only one joint mounted to the passenger hi-steer arm--I have two holes, but when I mounted my drag-link in front of the tie-rod, I couldn't get enough steering angle to make the truck drivable).. so the drag link isn't reaching all the way to the passenger steering arm... thus my drag link will be shorter than yours..by a few inches, and it is 30" On my ends I set everything up for 1" of available adjustment. Since your steer arm is a bit lower than mine, theoretically it will need to be longer, but not by much---in addition to it needing to be longer because of the difference in mounting location between mine and your setup... I'd order it long and you can always shorten it (I have the RH thread tap available to me, so I ordered 1 1/4 so I could shorten it and drill/tap the threads deeper if I did need to shorten the drag-link..and I did need to)

It's amazing... with as many of these swapped trucks out there, I have yet to come across an identical setup between two trucks... a lot of variety!
 

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why not just get a 3ft piece of DOM, one r/h weld in tube adapter, one l/h, then just measure and cut it to the right length when you are done with the swap...it takes about 1 hour
 

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Unless you get the 7/8" x 18 left and right hand threaded weld in ends and about 3 ft of 1 1/4 x .250 DOM I would wait. This just isn't something you can predict before the swap.
 

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X2. You can never have your drag legnth too long. The longer, the better. Why? As the suspension droops, the longer the drag link, the less the axle will shift to the left and bind up the shackles.

Build it once the axle is in place, and you have wieght down on the tires. You don't really need to adjust them, so get it so you only have about a thread or so exposed on each end.

-P
ummm What?

If it is too long the steering won't go left. With the axle straight ahead, steering wheel/box centered... you want your drag link to connect the box to the right knuckle.

I think you are talking about a panhard... because the drag link won't pull the axle one way or the other under suspension droop--unless you are at full lock, and even then the axle probably won't move that much due to steering input.... and you want your panhard to be as long as the drag link -pivot points- to eliminate bump-steer... longer does affect the suspension geometry less, but still has bump-steer issues.

If you don't leave enough room for adjustment, your steering wheel will be crooked (off-center), and you run the risk of breaking the 'clockspring' cable...especially if they don't run a panhard, the spring bushings will settle to one side or the other and you will want to be able to re-center the steering wheel.
 

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well i dont know about not going left, but if the drag link is too long it just staright up wont work. you wont be able to get it in the pitman arm and the knuckle. At least not with the steering box straight. Oh i guess thats what you meant haha...but yes you want the steering WHEEL straight, then you want to make sure that the steering BOX is centered. (turn it to the right all the way, then turn it back to the left and count the number of rotations, then turn it back to the right half of those rotations so the box is centered). Then you gotta account for the tie rod ends being in the pitman arm and the knuckle, account for the extra length of the tube adapters, then measure how long the actual drag link should be. I think would Norcal was getting at is that you dont want the draglink to be too short where the tie rod end has 20 threads out and only 10 screwed in. You want to only have about 2-3 threads showing with the jam nut installed on each end. So that woudl be like leaving 5 threads showing on each end without the nuts on. Hopefuly that makes sense....which you may have already known all that

EDIT: actually the steering wheel being straight isnt important when you make the draglink, but you do want it close to straight when you hook the steering shaft to the centered box so the wheel is close to straight when the truck is going straight. Then have it aligned and they can center it for you.
 

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Yeah, I think there was confusion right from the get go when he asked about draglink instead of panhard. Lets see if that is what he meant.....
Yep, stupid me. DER DER DERRRRRRRRRR

I'll edit the post. Stupid me!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
haha well you guys started to confuse the hell out of me reading your guys bantering but i got it now well i will take all those things into acount and there is alot of good advice in there guys:D thanks alot
 
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