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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, been having issues with my driveshaft bolts. My first trip out after I did the 1uz swap at the end of august, I had my front driveshaft almost fall off. So I bought new oem bolts, loctite on them all, and no issues since. I'm pretty sure I checked the rear bolts at the same time, made sure they were tight, don't think I had loctite on them. Today, I had the rear one almost fall off at the transfer case, 1 bolt was holding it on. Luckily, just minimal damage, but a pain in the ass.

I'll be redoing all the bolts again with loctite and torquing them down, but I'm wondering, does the extra torque from the 1uz have that much of an effect on those bolts to cause them to come loose that quick? Since I got my first truck and started wheeling, I've never had drivetrain problems, no loose bolts, and (admittedly) never even checked those bolts on previous trucks, and even this truck prior to this engine. And not a single issue. And now, with the new engine, I've had it happen twice over the course of about 4 trips, with the truck parked for the majority of the time in between.

I'm going to start checking these bolts before every trip now, but do you think loctite will be enough to keep the bolts from coming loose? Or is this just something I'm going to have to deal with now that I have more power? Any thoughts or experiences would be great.
 

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Yep, got lock washers on everything. I haven't had any issues since putting loctite on them, not sure if I the rear had loctite or not though. What's weird is that this all happened post engine swap, with no loctite on anything before with 0 issues. I'm sure the loctite will solve the problem, but just wondering if the added power from the engine swap would play a part in this.
 

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Yep, got lock washers on everything. I haven't had any issues since putting loctite on them, not sure if I the rear had loctite or not though. What's weird is that this all happened post engine swap, with no loctite on anything before with 0 issues. I'm sure the loctite will solve the problem, but just wondering if the added power from the engine swap would play a part in this.
I couldn't really see why the added power would cause an issue.
I don't believe there is a huge difference between your driveshaft and a driveshaft from a first gen tundra (which has similar power to your 1UZ).

I'd call it a fluke.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I couldn't really see why the added power would cause an issue.
I don't believe there is a huge difference between your driveshaft and a driveshaft from a first gen tundra (which has similar power to your 1UZ).

I'd call it a fluke.
Yeah, that makes sense I guess. Weird. When the shaft was flopping around for the second before I stopped, it ended up ripping my air line, and breaking my speedo cable which was zip tied to that line, and hit the undercarriage a few times. Luckily that was it, nothing major. Lesson learned though, loctite will be getting used a lot more often :D
 

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Yeah, that makes sense I guess. Weird. When the shaft was flopping around for the second before I stopped, it ended up ripping my air line, and breaking my speedo cable which was zip tied to that line, and hit the undercarriage a few times. Luckily that was it, nothing major. Lesson learned though, loctite will be getting used a lot more often :D
If that's all that happened them you got lucky. I've heard of driveshafts coming loose and taking out gas tanks and mufflers.
 

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My friends rear driveshaft dropped of the tcase and dug in to the black top catapulting the rear of his truck sideways at 35 MPH. I guess that's why racers have driveshaft hoops.

I love my Loctite and torque wrench. At least you're ok Ringwrath.
 

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Yeah, I was thankful I was going fairly slow down a trail when it happened, I know just how bad it could have been!
 

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my driveshaft bolts loosen up on their own as well. this is the first rig i've had with flanges, im used to yokes so i figured it was a flange thing. guess its not "normal" afterall...

-Tim
 

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Make sure the lock washers are not flat before tightening. They may not be doing there job if you are reusing old worn out washers. I had that problem and replaced the lock washers with new ones and problem solved.
 

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It is most definatley not normal if they are working as they should and have been tightned to the specified torque.

my driveshaft bolts loosen up on their own as well. this is the first rig i've had with flanges, im used to yokes so i figured it was a flange thing. guess its not "normal" afterall...

-Tim
 

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I will admit I don't torque every bolt on the truck to spec. Most, but not all. However, I am in the good habit of regularly checking driveline, suspension, and steering parts to be in proper working order, and I've caught them loose more than once. People don't do this as much as they should and this is why the govt makes us have tire pressure lights on the dash. Maybe next we will get loose nut lights ;)
 

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I don't think the government will ever favor loose nut warnings. If they did it would put Washington DC right out of business in the blink of an eye.

I will admit I don't torque every bolt on the truck to spec. Most, but not all. However, I am in the good habit of regularly checking driveline, suspension, and steering parts to be in proper working order, and I've caught them loose more than once. People don't do this as much as they should and this is why the govt makes us have tire pressure lights on the dash. Maybe next we will get loose nut lights ;)
 

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For drive line repair...
I recommend new bolts, nuts and washers
on every occasion those are removed.
The old stuff may hold...
But torquing those originally can cause the
bolts/nuts an opportunity to stretch a little...
and spring washer's can become flat.

I also use red loctite on most of my drive line nuts/bolts.

On the trail...
that "good measure" principle goes to shit. Lol
 

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Hehe. Gotta love trail repairs, I live for that shit.
 
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