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So, I've been on this forum (and Delphi) for a while now and still dont own a tacoma, but I'm getting more serious about buying one. I've found a couple with mileage in the 25-35k range and was wondering what would be a better lift for a daily driver, plus weekend offroader (only vehicle).
I'm looking to get 6" of lift, so either ~3" coilover + 3"body, or 6" fabtech. I wanted to go the coilover route because of the slightly better ground clearance, but if I am going to keep this for 150k+ miles I wasn't sure if a body lift was a good idea, because that seems like a lot of potential wear on the cab/bed mounts. Also, I know I'd have to watch for boot wear with coilovers, but i'm sure the cv's themselves would wearout after that many miles at a more severe-than-stock angle. Also, I could do a coilover and body lift myself, but I'm not to sure about cutting the crossmember for a drop bracket lift.

So what do you all think??
 

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I have the 3+3, if I had the money I would have gone with a 6" Fabtech. The ride is better, you only sacrafice 1/2" ground clearance, you still have the option of 3" bodylift later, and you can use OME springs and gain an additional inch or two.
The drawback is the cost of Fabtech vs coil spacer or adjustable coilovers.
Bodylifts have been problematic for a few people, they share a common habit of getting air under their trucks. Mildly used trucks havent had problems, and like any other part of your truck a little maintenance goes a long way.

Tim
 

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tbplus10 said:
I have the 3+3, if I had the money I would have gone with a 6" Fabtech. The ride is better, you only sacrafice 1/2" ground clearance, you still have the option of 3" bodylift later, and you can use OME springs and gain an additional inch or two.
The drawback is the cost of Fabtech vs coil spacer or adjustable coilovers.
Bodylifts have been problematic for a few people, they share a common habit of getting air under their trucks. Mildly used trucks havent had problems, and like any other part of your truck a little maintenance goes a long way.

Tim
1/2" compared to stock?
 

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Without bigger tires the Drope down bracket will sit lower by an 1/2in is what he is saying but when equipped with bigger tires you gain that lost clearance. Many people wheel with the drop down lifts. It doesnt gain you any crossmember clearance but the clearane under the frame is improved. Most of the time your tires will lift the crossmember out of the way on an obsticle.
 

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SilverTaco said:
Without bigger tires the Drope down bracket will sit lower by an 1/2in is what he is saying but when equipped with bigger tires you gain that lost clearance. Many people wheel with the drop down lifts. It doesnt gain you any crossmember clearance but the clearane under the frame is improved. Most of the time your tires will lift the crossmember out of the way on an obsticle.
I am just asking to what he is measuring back to. Even with 2" spacers I hit my front skid a good bit
 

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ptrautne said:
I am just asking to what he is measuring back to. Even with 2" spacers I hit my front skid a good bit
Then you need a new spotter!! :D

With a drop bracket suspension all your skid plate height gains will be from taller tires, not the lift directly. How much farther down are your 2" spacers forcing the lower a arms? I've never measured one with 2" spacers but I'd be willing to bet your not gaining a full 2" under the skid plate from them.

Tim
 

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tbplus10 said:
Then you need a new spotter!! :D

With a drop bracket suspension all your skid plate height gains will be from taller tires, not the lift directly. How much farther down are your 2" spacers forcing the lower a arms? I've never measured one with 2" spacers but I'd be willing to bet your not gaining a full 2" under the skid plate from them.

Tim
To add to that as soon as you drop off of an obstacle that spring supported lift compresses and allows the skid plate to bang the surface. of courde the same will happen with the drop bracket on the same obstacle, only sooner. That's life with IFS.

Solid axles maintain the same ground clearance under them regardless and if you are talking ground clearance they hve the dynamic clearance of any IFS rig beat.

No need to spend any more on the IFS than neccesary IMO. Improve the suspension to ride like you want it and get a few years out of it.
 

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tbplus10 said:
Then you need a new spotter!! :D

With a drop bracket suspension all your skid plate height gains will be from taller tires, not the lift directly. How much farther down are your 2" spacers forcing the lower a arms? I've never measured one with 2" spacers but I'd be willing to bet your not gaining a full 2" under the skid plate from them.

Tim
Some times there are rocks that just happen to be in the center of your line. With 33's (~32.5 real size) and just the fabtech lift, I would hit all kinds of rocks, which were only 12-15" tall because there is not enough clearance. When I added the 2" spacers it helped allot but now my CV angles are terrible. You either need to run 35's or add spacers to drop bracket lifts in my opinion. The only good thing I see about the drop bracket lifts is that you get more clearance to the frame and bumpers. If I had lifted my truck all over again, I would have just done a spacer lift and 33X10.5 tires.
 

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ptrautne said:
Some times there are rocks that just happen to be in the center of your line. With 33's (~32.5 real size) and just the fabtech lift, I would hit all kinds of rocks, which were only 12-15" tall because there is not enough clearance. When I added the 2" spacers it helped allot but now my CV angles are terrible. You either need to run 35's or add spacers to drop bracket lifts in my opinion. The only good thing I see about the drop bracket lifts is that you get more clearance to the frame and bumpers. If I had lifted my truck all over again, I would have just done a spacer lift and 33X10.5 tires.

Yeah down here in Mid GA all i do is mostly mud...which are usually ruts so i needed clearance under the whole truck not just the frame. Like your rock the ruts down here are what i get caught on and that big crossmember would act like a plow for me.

Dont get me wrong i would still love to have one but along with it comes tires,rims, regearing for bigger tires...etc Too much work for me. My 32's and spacer lift get it done for me. If looks is what your after...go for it cause they look badass. As far as wheeling i dont know I personally dont have one so im not going to knock it and say it doesnt do good....I dont know
 

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ptrautne said:
When I added the 2" spacers it helped allot but now my CV angles are terrible. You either need to run 35's or add spacers to drop bracket lifts in my opinion. I would have just done a spacer lift and 33X10.5 tires.
Those parts of your post show the difference. If you want to run 33" or less a spacer + body lift is cheaper and effective (total poss 6" lift not incl tires). If you plan to run 35" or larger (without cutting or rubbing the body) a drop bracket + body lift is the way to go (total poss 9" lift not incl tires).
One thing you point out is the drop bracket lifts dont bring the suspension geometry back to factory specs in regards to CV angles, and spacers or larger springs cause bad CV angles with less of a lift than happens on stock suspension (not including the gain from the drop bracket suspension).

I'd eventually like 35's on my truck, which is why I would rather have a drop bracket (and no I dont want to SAS no matter what compelling reasons everyone has), after seeing a couple trucks with Fabtechs its my opinion I wouldnt want to gain lift over and above the Fabtech by using spacers or larger springs, they all seem to have the same CV angle issue.

For the original poster the whole issue comes down to what your future plans for your truck are. If larger tires are in the plan then save money and do it that way the first time. Most of us keep spending and building until were beyond our opinion of whats functional or what works, then we end up taking a step back .

Tim
 
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