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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Having read though all of the dual battery posts on this site as well as several others, here’s is my current plan. I’d like to get some feedback before I start laying down cash for this project.

Components:

AUX Battery: Odyssey PC 925 http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc925.htm I plan to keep the OEM battery until it needs to be replaced.

Battery Isolator: Surepower Battery Separator 1315-200 Auto Electrical Repair & Parts: Yakima, WA | Smith Auto Repair & Electric
This was recommended by Tim at Smith Auto Electric as a work around to the voltage drop that would be introduced with a silicon diode isolator. I think, but am not sure, that I can use the manual connect feature to link both batteries for engine start or winch operation. I’ve read that it is unwise to run a winch across an isolator, it is not clear to me that the same prohibition applies to a “smart solenoid” such as this. If the manual connect cannot be used in this way, I can install the winch off the OEM battery, bypassing the Battery Separator if needed.
[edit this unit did not fit so I went an isolator from Hellroaring]
Fuse Block: Hella 62942U Fuse Box, 16 Gang
This has more circuits than I need but looked like this would provide the cleanest installation. The Amp capacity is not listed in the Hella catalog and it is not clear if there is a main fuse or if I will have to locate one between it and the Aux battery.

[edit]this unit was a peice of junk so I went with a 6x4x2 Project box from Radio Shack and a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block ATO/ATC no cover - 12 Circuit from Redden Marine.


Relay Block: Hella 62943U Relay Box, 4 Gang, Splashproof
This can be mounted directly next to the fuse box.

[edit] This is also junk. Using Factory R/B No.2 part numbers
82662B
82742
8266BA

Wire: Marine grade wire from West Marine.
Grommets for holes, flexible conduit around wires, ground to chassis as close to components as possible. The tool I used to size wire is located here: WIRE. Am I missing anything here?

Connectors: Crimp, solder, heat shrink. Am I missing anything here?

Fuses: Not sure what sized fuse to put between the battery separator and aux battery or between the battery and fuse block. I assume I should have fuses in these locations.

Lights: The backup lights will use a relay from the taillight.
I have not picked out lights or winch yet, it’s going to be a while before the winch happens.

CB Radio: Cobra 75WXST
Since I'm not taping into existing switched power in the cabin, will I need a switch between the hidden compent and the battery or is power switched by the hand peice? Also, any suggestiosn for using existing holes through the firewall to run power or do I need to drill?

Compressor: Viair 400c http://www.viaircorp.com/400c.html
This is already installed. Just need to move power to new fuse block.

Navigation/Entertainment System: Custom built uses about 250W.
This is already installed using power from cigarette lighter, when I relocate power to the aux battery it will be along the same route as the CB Radio.

Here’s the proposed schematic of the Aux electrical system:


 

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From what you say and I can see from your schamatic you most definetly know what your talking about. Wished I would have payed more attention during electronics in school (Navy "C"). Would worry about alternator out? Your wire gage, relays, switches and grounds look right. Grounds close to load sounds right also. 14G to 12V adapter in bed? What for? Wish you where close to me for my wiring FUBR's.
 

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Yep, did the same for 12v to my amp. But to bring a 12v source to the bed I used 4ga welding cable along the frame, but up out of the way of course. I may rerun it later, but I'll need more flexible cable (read: higher quality).
 

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I would definately consider a high output alternator to run all of that and charge you dual battery's. I run a GM 160amp alternator in my taco and it wont dim the lights with bass hit even with 3 sets of driving light, 2 amps, and the ac running. You can get a GM ho alt for 200$ new, half the price of most aftermarket ho alt's for tacomas.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I should have mentioned that this is for a 06 with tow package. If the stock 130A alternator is not going to do the job, can that wait till the winch is added?
 

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The stock alt. is 130A? Where did you get that info? I have been trying to determine the output on my '07 and the only alt. info i've found is that the OEM is 80A.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got that info from searches on this forum, but you freaked me out since people can say anthing and I did not check original souces. So from Toyota: http://www.toyota.com/tacoma/options.html

"V6 Towing Package[3] -- Class-4 towing hitch, transmission oil cooler (automatic transmission models), supplemental engine oil cooler, heavy-duty battery, 130-amp alternator and 7-pin connector with converter"


I'm just a newbe, learning lessons: I should have made this clear in my first post, my truck is 2006 TRD, Tow package xcab.
 

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Make sure you take and post lots of pics of your install. Dual batteries is on my to-do list, and you seem like you know what you're doing!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I found out that the Hella 62942U Fuse Box, is not going to work. It does not have a bus. I also found out that the Cobra 75WXST can be directly wired to battery.

I found an alternative fuse block
ST Blade Fuse Block ATO/ATC no cover - 12 Circuit
http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/new-detail.cfm?id=BSS5034

Remaining question:
Fuses: What size fuse to put between the battery separator and aux battery and between the battery and fuse block.
 

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There would not really be much point for the fuse block to have its own fuses on outputs and input. Depending on where you locate it, you will probably want an external fuse at the source end of the wire. Its purpose is to protect the sources (and from a fire) if the supply wire to the fuse-box shorts to body. This fuse should be able to handle all the current that you would draw at the same time from all the outputs of the fuse-block - that means all the lights and equipment that might be turned-on together. This implies a damn big fuse, and a stout wire. Add up all the wattages and divide by 12V, then add at least 10A margin for turn-on inrush.

A winch can draw about 400 amps or more at max load. The main current for this should probably not go through any relays or switches other than the winch's own solenoids. If you want to relay the power for just the solenoid controller, then go to it. I don't know if that isolator you are talking about is good for winch main current.

I disagree with running ground currents through body or chassis. It promotes rusting and tends to get unreliable with age. In Cali that may not be so much of a problem though. Still, I myself would run a stoutish ground wire from the tail of the vehicle for all the stuff in the rear, and another for the lights in front, and connect both to either engine block or battery ground strap (and I'm in Cali too!). The CB and entertainment system can typically use an in-cab ground point from a current perspective, but are less susceptible to interference if they have a ground wire physically closely paralleling their supply wire (even better if they are twisted together). Sometimes it is not an issue, sometimes it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks everyone for the feedback. I’ve updated the plan accordingly and added a bit more detail. I’ve also made changes to several of the product choices based on vendor feedback and additional research.

Please let me know if you have any other suggestions I'm going to start ordering stuff pretty soon.

Updated Circuit Diagram


Battery, Isolator, and Fuse Block Layout


Revised Components List:

Alternator: 130A OEM Alternator:
Specification: 130A (internal voltage sensing)
Source Toyota
Price: included with vehicle tow package (http://www.toyota.com/tacoma/options.html)
Comments: This is an internal sensing alternator. It will not work properly with all battery isolators.

Primary Battery: Odyssey PC 1700
Specification: http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1700mjt.htm
Source: Arc Battery, Sausalito, CA
Price: TBD
Comments: Dimensions of the PC1700 are roughly the same as OEM battery. I plan to keep OEM battery until I add winch. Until then the aux fuse block will be connected to the backup battery. Once I get the PC1700, I’ll use it to power everything and the backup battery will be backup power only.

Backup Battery: Odyssey PC 925
Specification: http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc925.htm
Source: Arc Battery, Sausalito, CA
Price: $120
Comments: Fits next to OEM Relay Block. It is possible to fit a second one between the ABS and CAI on the passenger side.

Battery Isolator: Hellroaring BIC-95300A
Mfg: http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75300.htm
Source: http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75300.htm
Price: $169
Comments: I had planned to use a Surepower Battery Separator 1315-200, but it is too bulky to put on the driver’s side where the backup battery will be located. If you go with two Odyssey PC 1200s in the stock battery location the 1315-200 will fit where I my PC925 will be located. The Surepower Battery Separator 1315-200 is less expensive and basically does the same thing as the BIC 95300. Both the Battery Separator 1315-200 and BIC-95300A have manual override function that may help in a winch or dead battery situation However, in a dead battery situation, the “dead” battery may dray enough current from the backup battery to render the override function useless. You would have to disconnect the dead battery from the starter to get enough current to the starter to turn the engine. In the case of powering a winch, the manual override of the 1315 or BIC-95300 will allow both batteries to provide additional power to the winch.

Fuse Block: ST Blade Fuse Block without Cover - 12 Circuit without Negative Bus
Specification: http://bluesea.com/products/5034
Source: http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/new-detail.cfm?id=BSS5034
Price: $39.96
Comments: I do not like all the exposed wires with this fuse block so I plan to put it in an ABS plastic project box. I had originally considered the Hella 62942U Fuse Box, 16 Gang but I found out that does not have a bus. I also considered the Blue Sea 12 Gang fuse box with cover and negative bus, but I don’t think I will need the negative buss and that unit is too large for where I want to put it. Also, I considered the painless XX but since I did not need the hot start vs cold features and it requires all the wires to be run to another (where?) location. I’m sure there are other products out there that would work as well or better but I didn’t see the need to research this further once I saw the Blue Sea fuse blocks.

Relay Block: OEM Unused relay position in Engine Room R/B No.2
Specification: n/a
Source: Toyota
Price: included with vehicle
Comments: I originally considered Hella 62943U Relay Box, 4 Gang, Splashproof but that was before I realized there was an unused fuse position in the OEM relay block that can be used for the from Aux lights. I think the second relay will fit in the project box that houses the Blue Sea fuse block.

Wire: Tin coated marine grade wire.
Specification: See circuit diagram and Table 1
Source: West Marine.
Price: TBD
Comments: Grommets for holes, flexible split conduit around wires, ground to chassis as close components as possible. The tool I used to size wire is located here: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm. I’m going to use factory ground points where possible.

Connectors:
Wire connectors etc: See Table 1
Comments: Crimp, solder, heat shrink.

Fuses: ATO/ATC Blade Fuses, high amperage fuses with holders.
Specification: See Circuit diagram and Table 1
Comments: I sized the ATO/ATC Blade Fuses based on the ratings for the component and associated wire. For the location of the high amperage fuses, the only guidelines I’m familiar with is ABYC E-11 which “recommends circuit protection within 7 inches of each battery connection or source of power. Circuit protection may be as far as 40 inches from a source of power other than a battery, or 72 inches from a battery if the wiring is protected by a sheath or enclosure”. Hellroaring recommends 250A protection for the Isolator circuit. And the Blue Sea is rated at 100A.

Reverse Lights: TBD

Front Aux Lights: TBD

Rock Lights: TBD

Winch: TBD

12V Recptacles: Sealink 12V Receptacles
Specification: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/233816/0/0/receptacle/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0
Source: West Marine
Price: $9.99
Comments: Plan to install two inside the trays above the wheel wells. This will allow charging of 2 cell phones, electric blanket, and Laptop DC/DC regulator.

CB Radio: Cobra 75WXST
Specification: http://www.cobra.com/index.php?page=shop/flypage&product_id=5
Source: TBD
Price: TBD
Comments: Per Cobra Tech support, the hidden unit does not consume power when the handset is unplugged and does not need a separate relay or switch. I’m still researching antenna and other details of this component.

Compressor: Viair 400c
Specification: http://www.viaircorp.com/400c.html
Source: Amazon.com
Price: $219.95
Comments: This is already installed. Just need to move power to new fuse block.

Navigation/Entertainment System: Custom built uses about 250W.
Comments: This is already installed using power from cigarette lighter, when I relocate power to the aux battery it will be along the same route as the CB Radio.


 
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