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Discussion Starter #1
I saw this come up on expedition portal, and figured I'd ask over here.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/118262-Single-battery-setups

I currently have an Odyssey PC1200MJT that's about 7 years old, it's still doing well, but I know it's going to need replacing sometime soon. I love how well it's performed, never an issue with leaving the radio on all day or forgetting the lights on until just recently, so I figure I'm going to stay in the Odyssey/Sears Diehard platinum family.

I currently don't have a winch, but will add one even though I haven't been in too many situations where I've needed one, and I'm swapping my lighting out for LED's, had Lightforces, and for those of you who know how tough they are, I found a way to kill them. I do plan to add a fridge in the future, my stereo will never be anything bigger than a head unit and speakers, so I doubt my strains on the electrical system will ever be much.

My alternator is still stock, but at 250,000 miles, I figure I'll need to replace it too, and will go with a high output option.

Biggest concern at this point is cost, since each PC12000MJT is around $250, and a dual battery system is probably around the same. I figure one Diehard Platinum group 31, the big deep cycle marine battery they sell would cost around the same as one of the Odysseys, then I can upgrade my battery cables to 4 gauge and I'd save a huge amount over the dual setup

Second concern is space, weight, and the confusion created by more stuff under the hood. Simplicity is a big concern, I am confused by electrical easily, and like most on here, i like to be able to do all my own work on my truck, especially if I'm in the middle of nowhere.

Concerns of course are draining the battery and being stuck with no backup, so what I've read some guys plan to do is have a jumper pack they carry, but I don't know what brands are reliable and it's just one more thing to go wrong. As unadvisable as it is, I also tend to do a lot of solo trips, so i will be out alone from time to time, so that will rule out the option of a friend giving me a jump at times.

My vehicle is making the shift towards an expo rig, I'll be putting my roof top tent on my truck soon, if the guys at CVT ever get it to me, but that's another story. *edit, so ironic, Bobby from CVT just called me, said he would drop my tent at my door Monday at 7:00 am for $100, that is some awesome customer service!!!* I figure my biggest concern will be days of the truck parked in one spot with my fridge running, but so far that hasn't really happened, I'm always on the move, either wheeling or road tripping.

Anybody wanna chime in? What are you running, what did it cost you, why do you like it, best brands for dual battery systems, and anybody know of any jump pack brands that are solid and trustworthy? I've read mixed reviews on some brands, I wonder if it's operator error, or they just are pieces of shit.
 

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I have two Odyssey PC1200MJTs under the hood in the stock location. It took a bit of doing but they do fit in the space without moving the fuse box or anything like that.

I used a somewhat expensive but much smaller and more efficent isolator to isolate the main battery from the aux battery that runs the winch and other high current accesories.
I suggest Boyles Future Technology in Auburn CA for rewinding your stock alternator for higher output. So far nobody that I've sent there has had any complaints. They do a great job at a decent price. My stock 60 amp alternator came back putting out about 120 amps and it puts out at idle too.
 

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truck ~n~ tow
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The primary reason for my running duals
was to isolate the starter/house battery/e-sys
insuring it will always start muh junk.

while the Aux batt carries the load
from all the auxiliary demands.
my dual 34/78 yellow top's perform well
and have been reliable for me.

but if I were in the current market...
I'd likely purchase a sears platinum battery
sears badged/odyssy, coupla' dollars cheaper

I use a Cole Isolator
tho' less efficient then Dick's set up ^
it gets it done.

I fab'd my aux battery mount
and modified the house battery mount.

I like the offsetting weight of the Aux. batt on the passenger side
these 1s gens are notoriously driver side heavy already.

if'n one has a big ass (fat) it might just lean a little more. just sayin' :p



I bump my rpm up a little when taxing the Aux batt. with winch duty.



 

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STITCH - Come and Take it!
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9,051 Posts
I currently and semi what real slow...have a single battery system.
I use a Optima34R at the factory location.
A custom assembled fuse box...mounted under the hood
To handle power distribution to my LightForces, LED rock lights, OBA, CB and stereo system.
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2357779&postcount=44

I just replaced my BIG-3 charging cables
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2456506&postcount=56



In the future, I will be going for a HO Alternator.
When I finally spring for my winch, I will get a second battery....no decision on what I will get.
That will be placed on the passenger side fender.
Why there, the current design of the Gen-I driver side fender will not hold a dual system for very long.
There are many that have seen the fender spot welds or metal tear.
There are write ups here to show what they did to strengthen that area.

Hope this helps and post up what you did.
 

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Yeah I beefed mine up and added bracing right away as I did the dual battery setup. I knew just looking at it that the fender would not support the extra weight. Plus some of my fender and body mount had already been chopped away for the axle swap.

I currently and semi what real slow...have a single battery system.
I use a Optima34R at the factory location.
A custom assembled fuse box...mounted under the hood
To handle power distribution to my LightForces, LED rock lights, OBA, CB and stereo system.
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2357779&postcount=44

I just replaced my BIG-3 charging cables
http://www.ttora.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2456506&postcount=56



In the future, I will be going for a HO Alternator.
When I finally spring for my winch, I will get a second battery....no decision on what I will get.
That will be placed on the passenger side fender.
Why there, the current design of the Gen-I driver side fender will not hold a dual system for very long.
There are many that have seen the fender spot welds or metal tear.
There are write ups here to show what they did to strengthen that area.

Hope this helps and post up what you did.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I'm really concerned about the weight, about 100,000 miles ago I pulled my core support and rewelded a new one on, so I don't think it's as strong as stock, which is already weak. I'll haave to beef that area up.

Looking closer, one group 31 Sears Dieahard platinum is 75 lbs and is 13L x 7W x 9.5H, and a PC12000MJT is 38 lbs, and is about 8Lx 7W x 7H, so two will be near the same as one Diehard. I can also reuse the terminals and the metal jacket from my Odyssey, so that will cut some cost.

I don't want to put one on the passenger fender the way Dell and many others have just because I don't want to run the cables and I want the room for a compressor.

Dell, is this what you're using?


I like the simplicity of it, and it's a hell of a lot cheeper than most options. I don't need all the fancy shit like monitors and all that, I can isolate the fridge to the 2 battery, if it runs low I can start the truck off 1, and recharger the system and be good to go.

Edit: Dell, noticed you said Cole isolator, for some reason I read coil isolator, shows what I know about this shit. What amperage rating? They have several.


This website lets you custom order battery cables by the foot in whatever gauge you want and with whatever ends you want.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly
I'm not 100% what the right gauge is, I think I've read 4 is good enough. Is there a difference between 4 AWG and 4/0 AWG? They have both listed.
 

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truck ~n~ tow
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I'm really concerned about the weight, about 100,000 miles ago I pulled my core support and rewelded a new one on, so I don't think it's as strong as stock, which is already weak. I'll haave to beef that area up.
I had a small crack appear at the driver's side lower radiator core support (where the lower radiator rests)
and just to add more joy...
my inner and outer R core panels began to separate
at the upper side as well. :mad:

this is more likely due to the shitty pot metal skinz.
doubt that my aux. battery weight caused the issue.
Besides the crap they call sheet metal...
it's more likely because it's a 14 yr old Taco...
and survived some trail abuse... thru hell and back.

I will say this... welding this pot metal sheet tin is for the birds :rolleyes:
But it's held together since.

! Don't forget to disconnect yer batteries
when welding on yer junk
;)
9 times outta 10 nothing bad will occur...
but if it does... it could fry everything. :eek:

I don't want to put one on the passenger fender the way Dell and many others have just because I don't want to run the cables and I want the room for a compressor.
I more often will use my CO2 rather then my compressor...
so I prefer that my compressor stays dry and corrosion free under the bed's shell.
I don't really care that my batteries get wet. ;)

If you don't run cables... you don't have to pay for them ;) $$ !
I did because I didn't want added weight to the drivers side.
I also run a cable into the cab to a fused terminal box...
so's I can tie in muh rock lights and any other accessory
that's residing aft.

...to each their own thing of course.

* FYI.... for those whom have that ABS crap...
there will likely be no room there for an Aux. Batt. or compressor.
Lol

Dell, is this what you're using?
nope no manual switching
just the auto switching of the Sure Power (Cole/Hersee in wait)


Edit: Dell, noticed you said Cole isolator, for some reason I read coil isolator, shows what I know about this shit. What amperage rating? They have several.
Actually... I haven't installed the Cole/Hersee 200A # 48162 yet.
I have that and a freshly built 160A alt. waiting for install...
But I haven't done that yet. mostly lazy :eek:

I'm still running my original 80A Sure Power Isolator
along with stock original, embarrassingly low amp, factory alternator.
But it has kept up with demands.
tho' I generally don't operate every accessory all at once anyhow.

neither has failed yet...
so that's my other excuse... besides the laziness. :p
 

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I went with the Solo Sears Die Hard first. When I got one of the Edgestar fridges, I went with the solo battery setup for my first few trips. The fridge has a cut off if the voltage drops too low, and it did turn itself off. When I started the truck, the battery had started getting low, but it started, and charged itself up.
Due to the weight issue of the dual batteries, and having two rigs that could use a backup battery, I went with the ARK Pak. If you spent time on Expeditionportal, then you have probably seen them. It's similar to a National Luna, but not quite as expensive.
It worked great on my last trip, but you are carrying another battery around.
https://www.arkportablepower.com/arkpak
 
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