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Thanks, I'm in the Air Force.
DO WORK SON! Nice fab skills, most military members are jackasses with bracket lifts around here. I'm fuckin' impressed. :2cents:
 

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Thankyou. I spend a decent amount of time preventing coworkers from spending money in the wrong places.
I tried too, but the dumb fuck ordered a "Superlift" kit for his piece of shit Ranger. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Made some pretty good progress earlier this week. The engine actually wasn't too hard to pull. Makes me optimistic about cramming the new engine in. It's occurred to me that a 1" body lift will make it all a lot easier, but I've always had something against body lifts, so I'll have to think about that some more.





It's like a blank canvas.



With everything apart I'm going to take some time to clean it all up. Redo my brake lines since its a little ghetto after removing the ABS and all that, I could eliminate a lot of tubing there. As well as eliminating all the extraneous wiring and clean it up. Toyota taped all the wire bundles together, which makes it difficult to disassemble sections and identify specific wires. I think I'm going to go through and use corrugated loom for all of it and remove all the wires I won't need anymore. Takes a while and some patience. The nice thing about the GM ECU is a lot more functions are self contained. And also some wires have shorted out since I caught some air, so I need to figure that out.
 

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Wow....so sick. I've been googling for a month looking for anyone other than that Australian guy who's put a Supra 8" up front. You have built my next build. Same color too....lol

Looking forward to more!
 

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Good lookin build..but I was thinking..you said you got your new axle made to match the front width, what is your front? Like 4" over? So that would put the axle at about 68" from WMS to the other, that's pretty wide for our trucks, why didn't you try to fit a coiliver back there? What coils are you even using that are not falling out of the pockets when you are out the suspension? They must be tall as hall cause I don't think I noticed any limiting straps holding them in. Why is it bumping so low? Is the upper link mount above the differential on a collision course with the floor out back if you increased the up travel? Anyways, I was just curious about these things. It's a clean build and it looks like your havin fun in it already so right on
 

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Discussion Starter #108
@bonez

68" is pretty wide, but I kinda like the look of full width. I suppose if I were to start from scratch, I might keep it around 65-66". Total chaos kits are 3.5" over (I think), and they only give 13" of travel with 4x4, whereas I'm getting around 16". So I could have probably kept it near stock width with 13" of travel, worth it? Maybe.

I'm using land cruiser 80 front springs in the rear. I really like the spring rate, and they are already set up as dual rate. And they don't unseat. I chose not to fix something that wasn't broke, and a coil over would not have fit in the position I have the shock mounted.

The wheel well and tire size are the limit. I've seen guys cut the 4runner body around the tire and even running 39-40's. But not something I wanted to do at this time.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Progress

I already mentioned that I was going to clean up my factory wiring, which will hopefully make stuff easier later on. Probably not super necessary for the swap, as the GM wiring and computer is very self contained.



This is all the factory wiring I eliminated. SRS, ABS, instrument gauge, and some others. Really hope that when I put it all back together my windows and door locks still work. The added benefit of removing everything is I can go back and re-wire my aftermarket accessories to use the factory junction boxes.



The engine is in and "fits". Had to use my fixin hammer on the firewall and the transmission tunnel, and I had to do a 1" body lift. Didn't want to at first, but it will actually help a lot of other issues.



I made a new skid plate for the front differential, my other one was 3/16 plate and bent a little. So, thanks to solidworks and my new Swag Offroad press brake this baby turned out really well, and was pretty easy to make. Its 1/4" and the front wraps around the frame so it only has the bolts in the rear.





This shows the crossover pipe for the exhaust and shave job on the transmission pan to clear the front driveshaft. Thought I was going to be I trouble because of the size of the transmission, but I canted and rotated the engine a fewe degrees.



Radiator plan. A little nervous about keeping the stock radiator. I saw a Tacoma with an LS1 and the guy retained the stock radiator and it was fine. So to make sure I get good air flow I'm using 4 smaller fans instead of one big one to maximize fan surface area. Since I will use a separate cooler for the transmission, I'm going to use the built in cooler for a power steering cooler.

 

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Im curious what the surface area of 1 large fan is vs the 4 smaller fans, and are you going to build a shroud?

Im enjoying the updates keep them coming
 

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Discussion Starter #113
Well, after thinking about it and applying some rudimentary math, I think you are right, the actual surface area is the same, 4 small vs 1 large. When I was initially planning this I was going to get the dual fan kit for Toyota trucks, but when I looked at the size of the fans they didn't cover very much.

I don't remember precisely why I went with 4 vs 1, but it would have had to happen anyways, as the water pump pulley (which sticks out the furthest) is going to sit in the gap in the middle of the fans. I don't have a good picture, but its tight, like maybe an inch. So no room for a centered fan and no room to offset the fans and build a shroud, although that is the proper way to do it. Maybe a bit of a gamble this way, I'll have to see how it goes.

The computer will allow me to program what temps the fans come on, I'm going to wire it so there's a low speed and a high speed, I think it's recommended for 170 and 190 respectively.
 

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We did a similar thing with the harness. Removed all the stock gauge stuff, abs, srs, HVAC stuff, stereo, etc... Got it down to what's pictured below and like you, re-purposed some of the OE fuses for some of the aftermarket goodies. We're still running a stock 3.4 though...

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h315/sirhk100/Jason Tacoma/100_1237.jpg

Sweet build!!! I'll have to keep an eye out for it around town when it's running again.

both of my rides tend to stick out from the norm here in Vegas so make sure to wave or say hello if you see me around.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h315/sirhk100/Expo/100_0406.jpg

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h315/sirhk100/Toyota/100_0521.jpg

Out of curiosity what part of town are you in? If you happen to be in my area and need a hand I'd be happy to help if I have time between projects. Our first race with the new truck we built is next weekend so hopefully after that things mellow out for a tiny bit at least till I tear into either of the vehicles above this spring to make them better. Which is first is still a bit up in the air. Depends on which I can find certain parts for first. LOL Check out the TPF racing thread in this same section for my reference.
 

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I linked this thread over to one on Pirate4x4 since it pertains heavily to the topic. A bunch of people over there are looking to make their own Long Travel stuff, either by cutting and lengthening the stock arms like Blazeland or just making their own. I think how you have done is the ideal way, since you get the strength and longer travel without having to go insanely wide. Reading up on some stuff, even the Total Chaos race trucks are getting 15" of travel, and that is without them worrying about having drive to the front wheels.

I think with more and more King of Hammers rigs going to IFS, its only a matter of time before it trickles down to an "enthusiast" level.

The thread is in the Toyota Pickup section (not the Tacoma one) and here is a link.... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1109829-lengthening-ifs-control-arms.html

Keep up the good work....that is a hell of a setup you have and I'm sure the new engine will just take it to the next level too. I'll be interested to see how the 8" ring and pinion's (Front and Rear) hold up to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
I'll be interested to see how the 8" ring and pinion's (Front and Rear) hold up to it.
You and me both. I talked to a couple driveline specialists, and they couldn't really give me an answer besides "Depends how you drive it". In low the tires will get something like 64,000 ft/lbs of torque (I'm not a math scientist, leave it alone if I'm wrong). So working back from there, even a 1410 driveshaft won't hold 3200 ft/lbs (4:1 first, 3.8:1 low range, 400 lbs of torque). But what I am concerned about is premature wear out. I'll see. I'm going to but factory OEM 410 gears in, with a true trac limited slip and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #117 (Edited)
It's Alive!!

Videos:





Almost had a hard time with it, since I'm new to the tuning. So took me about a day of cranking to get it to run more than 3 seconds. Had the settings wrong for the computer. But dang it sounds awesome.

Had another small issue. Wanted to set up the electric fans for low speed and high speed. I have a book on LS swaps and it had a wiring diagram for relays to switch the fans from series to parallel to get a low and high speed. Well, turns out the wiring diagram was incorrect and had a near disaster. Its always a reassuring sight to see a small mushroom cloud of smoke rising from your new engine. Oh, and don't use auto reset circuit breakers. I ended up have to rip out some wiring because the breakers kept resetting. I don't even know why those are an option.



Just a shot of the front grill and the ample trans cooler.



Not a whole lot of room:



An answer to the fan question earlier: Its true that a 25" fan and 4x 10" fans have the same surface area, but the 4" fan is like 3 or 4" thick. Obviously would not have worked.





The relay and fuze block I added for the engine. I will probably go back later and incorporate this into the factory fuze block. I figured it would have been too hard to create this and incorporate it at the same time.



I've been getting a lot of my wiring products from Waytek Wire. They have a bunch of cool stuff at pretty cheap prices.

 

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You and me both. I talked to a couple driveline specialists, and they couldn't really give me an answer besides "Depends how you drive it". In low the tires will get something like 64,000 ft/lbs of torque (I'm not a math scientist, leave it alone if I'm wrong). So working back from there, even a 1410 driveshaft won't hold 3200 ft/lbs (4:1 first, 3.8:1 low range, 400 lbs of torque). But what I am concerned about is premature wear out. I'll see. I'm going to but factory OEM 410 gears in, with a true trac limited slip and see what happens.
Not sure on what the transmission gearing is, but assuming 1 to 1 n the tranny you'll be getting 6,232 ft./lbs in low. I think there are enough slip points in the system (torque converter and only an LSD not a full locker) that it won't be a problem.

The tires get that, but I bet the driveshaft won't see that much torque since its before the differential. I'd be more worried about the ring and pinion. The only time you'll actually exert the full torque into the system is when you are bound up on a rock and you keep trying and everything twists up. Having the limited slip still lets the wheel with less traction spin, which will definitely lessen the possibility of any one component seeing full torque.

I've blown up a High Pinion elocker on my crawler already, and since this is similar diff to that, I would imagine that would be the first to go. It was locked and, like I said above, I was trying to go over an undercut rock and had both dual cases engaged (total of 22,000 or so torque including tranny and diff gearing) and when one component let go (the lock out hub) it shock loaded the whole rest of the axle and broke a ring and pinion and my chromoly 30 spline longfield axle shafts. The only other weak link might be the the stub shaft into the diff unless you upgraded it too.

The ring and pinion just seems to be the limiting factor in Toyota solid axles once you get upgraded shafts. That said, I know a ton of Supra guys that are running big power numbers and the diffs seem to hold up allright to their abuse. Knowing some of those guys are their tendency to show off by doing burnouts and clutch drops and stuff, they definitely abuse it too.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Back to Daily Driver

Well, over the weekend, got most everything ironed out that needed to be. I was using the LS3 MAF and had to download and copy a Camero MAF calibration table and now it runs sweet. I'm going to get a lot of tickets.

So after two months and one week, using mostly weekends, my truck has returned to daily driver. :D Of course I can't say finished, cause it'll never be finished. But the interior is a little slapped together (wiring is not finalized). My other driver broke down before Christmas and I conned a friend into letting me borrow his car, but he was getting testy. So I got it to a point where it's drivable and it'll let me figure out how I like my shifter mount (which I already don't).

I will say this engine and 5.29 gearing blows. First gear is almost unusable, and it seems to freak out when it downshifts to accelerate. Which bodes well for swapping in the factory 4.10 when I get a chance.

Now to rebuild 22re on a 1984 Celica.
 
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