TTORA Forum banner

121 - 140 of 152 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #121
Not sure on what the transmission gearing is, but assuming 1 to 1 n the tranny you'll be getting 6,232 ft./lbs in low. I think there are enough slip points in the system (torque converter and only an LSD not a full locker) that it won't be a problem.
Don't forget that 1:1 is usually 3rd in most trannys, and it's 4th in mine. First is about 4:1, and low is 3.8:1. So, a whole heck of a lot of torque on the driveshaft even. Not to mention the axles and ring and pinion. But I believe you are correct with the torque converter slip, and the tire slip. So long as I don't do anything crazy with it.


Well, haven't been on here for a while. Lots of other things keeping me busy and not sure if anyone was still reading, but at least there's one so I'll update. As of last update, I'd just gone back to daily driving this thing. (that was back in February). Work was really busy, and then I went to Alabama for 2.5 months. Figured I'd take the truck with me cause it's so darn fun to drive. So with about 1k miles on the whole setup I drove to Alabama. Only issues I ended up having were some of the front suspension lock nuts coming loose after the 3k+ miles of driving. I'll have to keep a better eye on that or tac weld them in place.

But to some pics:

Shifter mount getting mocked up.



What it still looks like now. I'll need to get around to completing it, but I'm having a hard time getting the tap shift to work with this shifter, so I may have to switch it out.



Finished dash. Sits right where the stock one did. Real carbon fiber panel I got off eBay.



New Shoes. I really like and highly recommend these tires. Just a little bit of noise around 40-45 mph. Other than that, pretty quiet and really good offroad.



The week after I got back from Alabama (beginning of June), the summer heat hits Vegas and the cooling setup I have proves ineffective. I went to Big Bear for a couple days, had to blast the heat the whole way out there and on the trail. I was miserable. So all the nay-sayers regarding my radiator and fan setup proved to be correct. So the truck went back into the garage for a long time while I figured it out. In the meantime, I got a new shop toy.



Its pretty freakin awesome to be able to make just about anything. I'm still working out all the kinks on it though.



A bracket I made for my new Griffin Radiator.



So I decided to bite the bullet and put a nice griffin radiator into the front end. And a real fan. Between the fan (real slim design at 2.75") and the radiator (2.5") I had to move the whole fan, radiator, and A/C condensor assembly forward about 2". That took a real long time to figure out. But the result is a pretty clean install.








Still a very tight installation. I had some aggravation first finding the type of radiator I wanted and then getting it in the right place. I settled on the Dual Crossflow design with both inlet and out on the driver side. It meant crossing over with the piping, but I couldn't get it to fit otherwise.





After I got it fired up, I still had trouble with overheating, figured I was getting air pockets since the tube had to cross over the intake and therefore was higher than the fill cap. Pretty easy solution to just had another inline fill cap. So far seems to have solved it.



Which pretty much makes it all up to date. It is still getting a little warm when I do some hard accelerations. I moved the tranny cooler to the rear with a fan, so it doesn't get the best airflow, but keeps the tranny under 150*. Next step will be to take it offroad again and see how it does. Some sand will be very revealing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,205 Posts
There is more than one who enjoys your thread;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
This is an awesome build. I have also been quietly and patiently awaiting updates. Great job, and I hope that your cooling issues are over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #126
Damn somehow i fell off this thread. Youve had a lot of updates in the last couple years and everything looks awesome!! Im really glad that watts link worked out for you.
Thank you. It has mostly worked out okay. I think when I get the chance I'll tweak the watts link. As it sits right now the links aren't parallel with the ground at ride hight, so at high speed on bumps the body still rolls a little funny (I should also be able to tune that with shock valving I'd think, very small changes). Plus, I've tagged the lower watts linkage on some rocks, so that's less than desirable.

Even after all the radiator work, the engine was getting warm, especially with the A/C on. So I added an engine oil cooler (I'll have to post some pics of that). That seems to have done the trick, but I need to drive it some more. I also found out that these engines run a lot warmer anyways. I was getting concerned because I'd see temps between 200-210 easily. But I guess new Z06's routinely see that and more in typical driving, and around 220-230 racing. Still seems high, but maybe I'll try a lower thermostat at some point. It really seems that when it sits at 210 for some time, the whole truck gets really hot. That's a real big engine an puts out a lot of heat. Now that it's a little more dialed in I can hopefully finish up some other minor issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
781 Posts
Even after all the radiator work, the engine was getting warm, especially with the A/C on. So I added an engine oil cooler (I'll have to post some pics of that). That seems to have done the trick, but I need to drive it some more. I also found out that these engines run a lot warmer anyways. I was getting concerned because I'd see temps between 200-210 easily. But I guess new Z06's routinely see that and more in typical driving, and around 220-230 racing. Still seems high, but maybe I'll try a lower thermostat at some point. It really seems that when it sits at 210 for some time, the whole truck gets really hot. That's a real big engine an puts out a lot of heat. Now that it's a little more dialed in I can hopefully finish up some other minor issues.
You could add a shroud to the front of the rad, like ram air for the rad. Ive used aluminum around the top, sides, and bottom; from the rad to grill/bumper and our truck seemed to run a little cooler when moving through washes etc. It still heats up when we stop after a hard run. So we just cruise a little if were going to stop lol.

And how do you like the power of the L92? Im getting into a project soon thats similar to yours. Taco getting ls based v8, center mount(ish) 4wd. I was leaning towards the LY6 with custom exhaust, cam, and tune....hoping for 450-480hp at the crank. Even with the mods and tune i think it will be slightly cheaper then the L92.

L92 was the other option. Theyre more then double the price of the Ly6, but they have a possibility of another 50-75hp and 80lbs lighter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #129
Well...dang it.







Took the truck to Colorado this weekend to do some of offroading/camping and see some friends. This happened in the middle of nowhere, Utah. Water pump pulley broke off. You can see from the pictures that it was a pulley pressed on a shaft. Almost an inch of the shaft stuck out with a thread nob to mount an engine drive fan. Most cars are electric, only the earliest LS engines used engine driven fans. So, to fit the new fan and radiator combo I ha to shave off the threaded nub. I cover welded it to return some of the strength. Apparently, this is not a good idea and did not in fact work. So got a tow to autozone and fixed it in the parking lot ($250 water pump later). But the fan no longer fits. Finished the trip to Denver. Figured the fan didn't matter on the highway, and I was correct. In fact, I believe a standard fan shroud actually restricts airflow on the highway. Hard to compare as at this point it was a lot cooler in the mountains anyways. Oh well. Live and learn.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
And how do you like the power of the L92? Im getting into a project soon thats similar to yours. Taco getting ls based v8, center mount(ish) 4wd. I was leaning towards the LY6 with custom exhaust, cam, and tune....hoping for 450-480hp at the crank. Even with the mods and tune i think it will be slightly cheaper then the L92.

L92 was the other option. Theyre more then double the price of the Ly6, but they have a possibility of another 50-75hp and 80lbs lighter.

It's overkill. Haha. My buddy used a LY6 in his jeep with great success. I wanted an engine that came with a 6L80. But, if I were to do it again I might think more seriously about the 5.7/6L80 outa the Tahoe. Real cheap too. The great thing about the L92 is the weight savings (and extra power). I was also looking at the L76/6L80. Found a whole wrecked G8 for $5k. That would have made the swap real easy. Things I could have thought about more: heat generated by larger displacement, comp ratio (both L76 and L92 are high compression requiring 91 octane, also not as easy to force induct), and how much power I actually need. I have 4:10 gearing, thinking about raising it to 3:70-ish. I was doing 80mph over Vail Pass in Colorado (10k feet, 6-7% grade), truck weighs 5500, and it had more to give. Haha. It's a lot of fun. The cool thing about the aluminum block is the L92 weighs almost the same a the 3.4. I didn't have to do a thing to the suspension. It actually raked back a little.

I think (not positive) that the aluminum blocks are better for performance upgrades like a cam, whereas the lower compression is better for forced induction. I think bang for the buck, L05 (Tahoe) or LY6 (silverado) are the best bets. Any of the Gen IV truck engines have the variable valve timing, and I personally don't see a lot of benefit to removing that in favor of a cam. I feel like the variable cam already gives better performance across the whole range of rpm. Like I tell my friends when they talk about putting on a cold air intake: what are you using the vehicle for? Do you drive it around all day at peak rpm? Most admit that it's a bling factor.

If you're talking race truck. Idk. But a mid mount taco with an l92 sounds sick. I do recommend the 6l80 either way, but it'll need the tap shift working. It has an awesome power band and the narrow gears can keep it there. To keep it in the frame rails I had to use near stock manifolds on the exhaust, so not much benefit there. But maybe if the truck were more stripped down.

Did you mean center mount front diff or center mount engine? If using 4wd plan on using corvette oil pan. In retrospect I think the firewall should be moved back with the engine about a foot. That would help a taco stay balanced I would think (I don't really know a lot about that aspect).

This was long. I really want to build a race truck. I have a single cab '98 taco in the driveway and a supercharged 3.4 in the garage.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
781 Posts
You can see from the pictures that it was a pulley pressed on a shaft. Almost an inch of the shaft stuck out with a thread nob to mount an engine drive fan. Most cars are electric, only the earliest LS engines used engine driven fans. So, to fit the new fan and radiator combo I ha to shave off the threaded nub. I cover welded it to return some of the strength.
You could try the water pump/pulley setup you had and drill and tap a small bolt into the pulley shaft. Use a large fender washer. That material shouldnt be too hard to drill into.


It's overkill. Haha. My buddy used a LY6 in his jeep with great success. I wanted an engine that came with a 6L80. But, if I were to do it again I might think more seriously about the 5.7/6L80 outa the Tahoe. Real cheap too. The great thing about the L92 is the weight savings (and extra power). I was also looking at the L76/6L80.
L76 is the displacement on demand though, and i def want to stay away from that. Just seems like it could be issues as i have friends with stock Dod trucks and theyve been in for issues. This truck is pure play/race and will be towed, so highway mpg is not a concern. Ly6 is my bet because theyre all over for $2-2500 and with $1500-2000 in parts it can 450-490hp. But i ALMOST pulled the trigger on a L92 for $4k the other night. I prob should have. Same price on parts gets 520-550hp.....all rough numbers and at crank.

I think (not positive) that the aluminum blocks are better for performance upgrades like a cam, whereas the lower compression is better for forced induction. I think bang for the buck, L05 (Tahoe) or LY6 (silverado) are the best bets. Any of the Gen IV truck engines have the variable valve timing, and I personally don't see a lot of benefit to removing that in favor of a cam. I feel like the variable cam already gives better performance across the whole range of rpm.
Thats why im heavily leaning towards the LY6 or the L92 is for the VVT. Its just a cam/spring driven VVT i think, so it seems like it should be plenty reliable and like you said, HUGE torque curve. Looking at an LS3 dyno it has a spike for top torque. And the L92/Ly6 have two spikes that are spread by 2000rpm and in between the spikes its still very decent torque. And there are a few companies that offer the vvt cams for these engines. Supposed to add over 100hp with tune and headers.

If you're talking race truck. Idk. But a mid mount taco with an l92 sounds sick. I do recommend the 6l80 either way, but it'll need the tap shift working. It has an awesome power band and the narrow gears can keep it there. To keep it in the frame rails I had to use near stock manifolds on the exhaust, so not much benefit there. But maybe if the truck were more stripped down.
Idk about the 6l80. Ive heard they are quite a bit weaker then the 4l80 which is what we are going to run. The 6l80 1st gear is EXTREMELY low (like 4:1) and the top two gears are just slightly above and below the 4l80s top gear. They are closer gears in the 6l80 which is nice but i think were going 4l80 due to them being almost indestructible. Even though the engine hp will be a max of 600hp over next couple years, we are getting a 4l80 built for 1500hp lol. Sounds retarded, but its only an extra $1k between a 750hp and 1500 hp trans. And we are going paddle shifters for sure!!


Did you mean center mount front diff or center mount engine? If using 4wd plan on using corvette oil pan. In retrospect I think the firewall should be moved back with the engine about a foot. That would help a taco stay balanced I would think (I don't really know a lot about that aspect).
Center mount 4wd. We have the currie 9in center and spidertrax unit bearings. Going with rcv cvs and axles. I have an LS3 CAD drawing (LS3,L92, and Ly6 should all be really close) im going off with an oil pan from idk what vehicle, but the engine only has to go into the firewall 2-3inches and clears the diff plenty. I may push it back farther. Gotta wait till i get the engine and see how long the assemble is.

This was long. I really want to build a race truck. I have a single cab '98 taco in the driveway and a supercharged 3.4 in the garage.....
PERFECT start!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #132
I had the thought about drilling and tapping it. But even if that went well (I think it's a hardened shaft), I think by the time I put a good bolt and washer on it I would only save a 1/4". I'll figure something else out. Seems to be doing really well with the radiator and oil cooler by themselves, so might try the smaller fan setup I had earlier. If I move the radiator forward any more I'll have to figure something else out for latching the hood.

I suppose for a purely off-road truck, the 6L80 is not necessary. I haven't heard anything about strength (they're both -80 series), but the 4L80 has a smaller diameter and that will make it easier in a lot of ways. Plus, it's not like you really need a double overdrive. I would think in the dirt the extra overdrive would be useless. The nice thing about the narrower gears is during a hard acceleration the rpm stays between 4k and 6k. Which is pretty good on my 4:10's, I'm assuming would be awesome with 4:88's.

What axle are you going with,a spider 9? I'm stilling thinking of a 1 Ton eventually.

If it's a mostly shallow and flat oil pan, then probably a corvette. Google image search would answer that. The truck pan has more depth and a greater oil capacity which I'm sure aides in cooling. It'd be really tough to fit with a center mount diff. Putting in an oil cooler might be the good solution for extra oil capacity and cooling. Seems to have worked for me. I'll be interested to see how you do the front drive shaft, mine doesn't work well above 20 mph due to the angle of the shaft (almost 25 degrees). Moving the whole assembly rearward would help. I'm going to toy with the idea of using 930 cv joints (from RCV) and a axle shaft for the front drive shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
781 Posts
I had the thought about drilling and tapping it. But even if that went well (I think it's a hardened shaft), I think by the time I put a good bolt and washer on it I would only save a 1/4".
Usually the hardened shafts arent that hard at the center. Even transmission tailshafts are supposed to be easy to drill and tap. You just have to get through the surface hardening which isnt very thick (sand paper can actually take off a few thou which is all you need). And i was thinking something like a 1/4bolt with 0.1"thick fender washer. Just something enough to keep pressure on the pulley so it doesnt loose its press fit on the shaft. Maybe that is only 1/4 shorter then using a grinded down original nut, idk

I suppose for a purely off-road truck, the 6L80 is not necessary. I haven't heard anything about strength (they're both -80 series), but the 4L80 has a smaller diameter and that will make it easier in a lot of ways. Plus, it's not like you really need a double overdrive. I would think in the dirt the extra overdrive would be useless. The nice thing about the narrower gears is during a hard acceleration the rpm stays between 4k and 6k. Which is pretty good on my 4:10's, I'm assuming would be awesome with 4:88's.
We may run into an issue with our gearing. It was originally geared for the 3.4, so 5.29 gears. I still havent run the numbers to see speeds vs rpms yet....i prob should right now lol. Ive heard some TTs are running 6speeds to keep in the rpm range. But i was told that they were splitting gears on the 4l80s (I have NO idea if that is true). I know gm rates them both as 80s, but from what i can gather the 4l80 is built almost exactly like a th400 but with an extra gear and electronics. When aftermarket guys build the 4l80 they take a few of the th400 parts that are stronger and put them into the 4l80 since quite a few of the parts all just fit together. 6l80 is a whole different trans.


What axle are you going with,a spider 9? I'm stilling thinking of a 1 Ton eventually.
Rear axle? Its a currie housing with 9+ third member. BMS 2.5 full floater hubs. Its already been on the truck for a couple years but hasnt seen much use yet.


If it's a mostly shallow and flat oil pan, then probably a corvette. Google image search would answer that. The truck pan has more depth and a greater oil capacity which I'm sure aides in cooling. It'd be really tough to fit with a center mount diff. Putting in an oil cooler might be the good solution for extra oil capacity and cooling. Seems to have worked for me. I'll be interested to see how you do the front drive shaft, mine doesn't work well above 20 mph due to the angle of the shaft (almost 25 degrees). Moving the whole assembly rearward would help. I'm going to toy with the idea of using 930 cv joints (from RCV) and a axle shaft for the front drive shaft.
It had a large oil pan drop in the rear, but the diff fits nicely up under the front half of the engine. I havent quite figured out the front driveline, but i was thinking of maybe doing a 2piece to get around the oil pan. The front shaft angle would be in the 25deg range, so i may have to rethink that if you have issues. The cvs may actually be a good idea especially with a smaller diameter shaft to get things at better angles, but would be an expensive route (not that everything else isnt lol).

Heres a pic of the CAD model im using. Not a very good angle, but you can see the rear dropped pan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #134
I would think you'd want more like 4.88 as the lowest. I don't really have a lot of experience with it all, but I went through about 5 sets of 5.29 gears with the super charged 3.4. I attributed most of it to user error, like towing above gross weight and poor gear setup. With my 4.10s (stock from toyota) I haven't had any issues. But I think these only work cause the 6L80 has a 4:1 first gear. But whatever engine you go with is going to be monster torque compared to what you're used to. And the gm trannies don't slip like the toyota one does. If I step on the gas, the truck goes faster. As opposed to before the converter would just slip a little and nothing else would happen. I can barely tell when the converter is slipping.

But in all I think temperature management leads to longevity. For the diff, higher gears ( 4.10 vs 5.29) create a lot less heat, and the tranny needs a lot of fluid and a good oil cooler. If it's true that TT guys were splitting gears, I'd be interested to find out what temps they were running at. The GM transmissions also have a thing called Torque Management. It basically lets the transmission slip more under high torque application. The computer calculates it all. Anyone who races seems to be removing it so the tranny shifts faster and harder. I haven't touched it cause it sounded like it would protect my driveshaft and gears (which I believe is the intent) at the expense of generating more heat. I compensated by putting on a good oil cooler.

From that angle on the drawing looks like a corvette/camero oil pan. The truck drops twice as far and I had to swap mine out. If I had started this all from scratch again I'd probably do what it sounds like you are doing and put the diff a little farther forward to tuck it up underneath the accessory belt.

I had thought about 2 piece driveshaft. At Easter Jeep Safari in moab I saw a jeep that had the front and rear suspension/diffs/axles off a hummer. Cool idea with the portal axles but didn't look like he had a lot of travel. He used a two piece driveshaft. For me, it would be a lot harder to fit cause it would need double cardon CV joints and those are large. I think my front DS length is about 31", so the angles would actually increase if I used a two piece. Plus, with the small diameter of the axle shaft I can a ton of clearance back. And it doesn't need to plunge since all of it is fixed (I'd put a plunging 930 on one end so I can put it on and take it off, and to account for engine/frame flex). Much higher torque ratting and true CV. Supposedly the whole constructing of tube driveshafts are stronger than axle shafts (tubes have more surface area which bears all the stress). But tubes don't flex as much as proper axles do. The Driveshaft Shop is making high $$$$ driveshafts that have a 930 joint on one end. The replace the output flange on the tranny with something that bolts up to the 930 joint, but I'd just use and adapter plate. Much easier. If I ever get around to it I'll put up picks. I would like to do it before I got to Colorado again, cause truck is still useless in the snow because I can't go faster than 20 mph in 4wd. All said and done still might be cheaper than a two piece with double cardons.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
781 Posts
I would think you'd want more like 4.88 as the lowest. I don't really have a lot of experience with it all, but I went through about 5 sets of 5.29 gears with the super charged 3.4. I attributed most of it to user error, like towing above gross weight and poor gear setup. With my 4.10s (stock from toyota) I haven't had any issues.
We have 5.29 in our race truck with the N/A 4.0 (similar power to 3.4 super) and i like it alright. Our trans gearing vs speed is a little messed up so i kinda wish i would have stuck with the 4.88. Right now 4th tops out at around 90mph, so i have to use 5th to pull faster, but we dont have any real power in 5th. Weve had 4 races on it with 2 oil changes and no issues yet. I do think the 5.29 in this v8 taco might be way too low of gearing. There wasnt a plan for the v8 till a couple months ago, but weve had all the gears setup longer then that. Im with you...i think it might need to be 4.1-4.56 range.


But in all I think temperature management leads to longevity. For the diff, higher gears ( 4.10 vs 5.29) create a lot less heat, and the tranny needs a lot of fluid and a good oil cooler. If it's true that TT guys were splitting gears, I'd be interested to find out what temps they were running at. The GM transmissions also have a thing called Torque Management. It basically lets the transmission slip more under high torque application. The computer calculates it all. Anyone who races seems to be removing it so the tranny shifts faster and harder. I haven't touched it cause it sounded like it would protect my driveshaft and gears (which I believe is the intent) at the expense of generating more heat. I compensated by putting on a good oil cooler.
We plan to have a VERY large trans cooler in the back (like 32x14x2.5). We are going aftermarket trans tuner and paddle shifters, so well see what happens but i think they have some kind of torque management and slip ratios built in (I hope). And as far as the gears running hotter.... it is what it is. We may be swapping them out anyways.


From that angle on the drawing looks like a corvette/camero oil pan. The truck drops twice as far and I had to swap mine out. If I had started this all from scratch again I'd probably do what it sounds like you are doing and put the diff a little farther forward to tuck it up underneath the accessory belt.
damn....oh well i guess ill see what shows up when i buy one haha. I will plan to get a larger radiator up front with an oil cooler built in.

I had thought about 2 piece driveshaft. At Easter Jeep Safari in moab I saw a jeep that had the front and rear suspension/diffs/axles off a hummer. Cool idea with the portal axles but didn't look like he had a lot of travel. He used a two piece driveshaft. For me, it would be a lot harder to fit cause it would need double cardon CV joints and those are large. I think my front DS length is about 31", so the angles would actually increase if I used a two piece. Plus, with the small diameter of the axle shaft I can a ton of clearance back. And it doesn't need to plunge since all of it is fixed (I'd put a plunging 930 on one end so I can put it on and take it off, and to account for engine/frame flex). Much higher torque ratting and true CV. Supposedly the whole constructing of tube driveshafts are stronger than axle shafts (tubes have more surface area which bears all the stress). But tubes don't flex as much as proper axles do. The Driveshaft Shop is making high $$$$ driveshafts that have a 930 joint on one end. The replace the output flange on the tranny with something that bolts up to the 930 joint, but I'd just use and adapter plate. Much easier. If I ever get around to it I'll put up picks. I would like to do it before I got to Colorado again, cause truck is still useless in the snow because I can't go faster than 20 mph in 4wd. All said and done still might be cheaper than a two piece with double cardons.
Good info if we get into a dshaft jam. I was hoping to somehow avoid the double cardan with a 2piece. there was a discussion on RDC about dshaft angle phasing with single ujoints that i saw and so ive looked into it before (id need to brush up on it for a real discussion). Most vibs occur when the input angle on the shaft isnt the same as the output angle. So with phasing the input/output shaft angles could be off but with built in compensation angles it will eliminate vibs (for the most part).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Whats the bolt-center distance between the LCA frame attachment points, approx? I am curios as how it compares with factory mounts. Seems a tad narrower---?

Great project. Have to say I thought your reorganization of the radio/AC vent/etc was a pretty nice addition. Nice finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #138
I keep forgetting to measure. It is narrower, on the order of about 8". It's just wide enough to drop the diff with the flanges installed, so off the top of my head- 18". I'll try to get an actual measurement. Narrowing was sorta the whole point with this project. The more narrow the arms are, the better the travel. Serval things I discovered:

1. Narrow is better for travel.
2. Wider is more stable. The rear is solid and has a pivot point (for body roll) near the center of the axle. The pivot point for the front on an IFS is always off center. An. Off center pivot pointin the front and a centered pivot point in the rear will cause the suspension to bind as the body tries to roll around a corner. This is desireable since it leads to stability of the vehicle in cornering. So the wider the front a-arm inner joint, maybe the better. It also may be negligible.
3. IFS will never flex/articulate like a solid axle. But performs way better during high speed. My setup has proved to be a good compromise because I like how it performs both on road and off, and is very acceptable for in the rocks. With technology the way it is for axles, strength is no longer the issue (I think cheaper to go $$$ on axles vs $$$$ on solid axle swap).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
261 Posts
Hm, interesting. I was actually pretty surprised at how well it performed. You're making me consider something like this, now that I am out of school it's actually not a far thought. You motivated me to play with ideas in SW. More or less similar, though I'd probably chop the front frame rails. But beyond that, I need a garage first. I have a Supra LSD across the states, lol.

Too bad we cant drop the center off mass down to the roll center axis. I'm pretty sure in this case there will be absolutely no body roll. On paper. I am a bit curious how close F1's get on that.
 
121 - 140 of 152 Posts
About this Discussion
151 Replies
36 Participants
herocopter
TTORA Forum
TTORA forum is the best Toyota off-road club around. We are nation wide with chapters in most states. Come in and discuss Tacoma, 4Runner, Highlander, & TRD models.
Full Forum Listing
Top