Not sure if you were planning to do any performance mods to your engine down the road, but be careful with parts you choose. Ive been working on a class 1 that we are swapping a L92 into. Just about all aftermarket brackets and intakes are setup for the LS3 which we thought was the same. Turns out the L92 has all the pulleys spaced off the front of the block further then the LS3. We put on a FAST 102 intake and TB, and it hit the water pump. Got a camaro water pump. Water pump hit the timing cover, so we countersunk some bolts on the water pump and a little grinding and now it fits. He got an aftermarket alternator + PS pump, but they were setup for an LS3 so we needed a new crank pulley and idler pulley....so EVERYTHING that bolts to the front of the engine was stripped off and new parts put on. Not that big of an issue for you if you dont use parts that are LS3 specific.
So ive worked with a few LS engines now and i think i may have something that will help with your temp. Not sure if it was mentioned in the thread, but im too lazy to look through it all to see if it was haha. I noticed you have the heater hoses hooked up to the stock toyota heater? Im pretty sure the stock toyota heater valve actually shuts off the water to the heater core correct?I think the GM engines were designed to fluctuate more, I just think it's noteworthy that the water flow is insufficient at idle, I don't think it has anything to do with the thermostat since it should be open above 190, with idle temps climbing to 215-220.
Thank you for the tip. I think maybe I'd heard something about this, but you're explanation makes a little more sense. Something that I did to help a lot was changing how the fan came on. The computer can control relays based on water temp. But it seems that I couldn't figure out how to program it properly. Had an overheating problem with the mudding trip (a lot of mud got into the radiator, that didn't help at all). The strangest thing was the engine was pushing 230 and the fans wouldn't turn on. Maybe a wiring issue, but it seemed to be turning on intermittently. Well...decided to just bypass the computer and have the fans turn on anytime the ignition is on. Can't really think of a reason why not, except for the couple minutes it takes for the engine to warm up the fans are running needlessly. But this just means that my A/C gets cold instantly (a really nice feature in the south) and I put a little extra mileage on the the fans. And unless I move to Alaska, it probably won't make a difference in the long run. The result is the temperature is much more stable. A little bit of rising so I may try that crossover on the heater tubes.So ive worked with a few LS engines now and i think i may have something that will help with your temp. Not sure if it was mentioned in the thread, but im too lazy to look through it all to see if it was haha. I noticed you have the heater hoses hooked up to the stock toyota heater? Im pretty sure the stock toyota heater valve actually shuts off the water to the heater core correct?
The LS engines are designed to run constant water through the heater cores. The thermostat is in a bad area for sensing the heat in the engine and the inlet and outlet heater hoses flow water over the thermostat giving it a better heat reading from the engine. I would get a male-male barb fitting and loop the two heater hoses together to allow constant water flow over the thermostat and see if the temp stops fluctuation so much.