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Herocopter,

Not sure if you were planning to do any performance mods to your engine down the road, but be careful with parts you choose. Ive been working on a class 1 that we are swapping a L92 into. Just about all aftermarket brackets and intakes are setup for the LS3 which we thought was the same. Turns out the L92 has all the pulleys spaced off the front of the block further then the LS3. We put on a FAST 102 intake and TB, and it hit the water pump. Got a camaro water pump. Water pump hit the timing cover, so we countersunk some bolts on the water pump and a little grinding and now it fits. He got an aftermarket alternator + PS pump, but they were setup for an LS3 so we needed a new crank pulley and idler pulley....so EVERYTHING that bolts to the front of the engine was stripped off and new parts put on. Not that big of an issue for you if you dont use parts that are LS3 specific.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
Herocopter,

Not sure if you were planning to do any performance mods to your engine down the road, but be careful with parts you choose. Ive been working on a class 1 that we are swapping a L92 into. Just about all aftermarket brackets and intakes are setup for the LS3 which we thought was the same. Turns out the L92 has all the pulleys spaced off the front of the block further then the LS3. We put on a FAST 102 intake and TB, and it hit the water pump. Got a camaro water pump. Water pump hit the timing cover, so we countersunk some bolts on the water pump and a little grinding and now it fits. He got an aftermarket alternator + PS pump, but they were setup for an LS3 so we needed a new crank pulley and idler pulley....so EVERYTHING that bolts to the front of the engine was stripped off and new parts put on. Not that big of an issue for you if you dont use parts that are LS3 specific.

Good info. I had looked a little at different intakes or accessories, and found a little about the intake/water pump interference. I didn't know the belt/pulleys lined up differently.

Some more info I've discovered regarding 'cooling'. Finally got a chance to do some offroading. Took the truck in sand and even found some snow. First off, soooo awesome. I was really curious how my cooling fixes would work (transmission got hot in the sand, I had to stop, but I think it will be fixed when I get the tap shifting to work). I had been observing a lot of changes in the temps while driving around town (highway vs stopped at stoplight). Wasn't overheating, but about a 20* swing. I'm under the impression that any engine should have a constant temperature. What I've discovered is that the stock water pump is too slow at idle. So the radiator/fan setup is negligible. If I drive it hard and then stop (or drive at low RPM) the engine heats up significantly. If I stop and run the engine at 2500 rpm, I can watch the temp drop within seconds. True also if I do a hard acceleration to higher RPM's. I didn't fully recognize this until I went offroading. I'd read something about it a while ago when googling LS3 cooling issues. A lot of master craft boats have them (lake water cooled) and they were overheating when transitting through wake less areas (at idle). Also, rat rods have trouble in parades and will often have to 'burp' the engine have reving it up. Sounds cool in a parade but I don't think the guy in front of me at the stop light appreciates it.

So for LS3's they have aftermarket electic water pumps. Gives a constant flow at the perfect velocity for the thermal dynamics, nerding, etc. of the engine, might even possibly improve a couple horsepower. They aren't cheap but something I might look at. I can't decide if a mechanical or electric water pump is more reliable. But as mentioned above there will also be interference with the other accessories. So...maybe later.
 

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Most engine temps do vary. The thermostat is opening and closing and there is a delay between when it opens and closes. The temp could fluctuate between 190 and 210 and everything would be normal. I believe most stock temp gauges are "dumbed down" so only significant temp changes register. If you are using an aftermarket gauge that isn't ran through the computer, I think you will most definitely see changes in temp. My street bike is like this and will range between 176 to 200 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
Op

That's true, I had noticed that you could see a more accurate engine temp with a scan gage, whereas the stock cluster gage remains steady. I noticed with the supercharged 3.4 that there was a performance difference between 190 and 200. But anyone with a super charger will understand the challenge of tuning it. I think the GM engines were designed to fluctuate more, I just think it's noteworthy that the water flow is insufficient at idle, I don't think it has anything to do with the thermostat since it should be open above 190, with idle temps climbing to 215-220.
 

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I think the GM engines were designed to fluctuate more, I just think it's noteworthy that the water flow is insufficient at idle, I don't think it has anything to do with the thermostat since it should be open above 190, with idle temps climbing to 215-220.
So ive worked with a few LS engines now and i think i may have something that will help with your temp. Not sure if it was mentioned in the thread, but im too lazy to look through it all to see if it was haha. I noticed you have the heater hoses hooked up to the stock toyota heater? Im pretty sure the stock toyota heater valve actually shuts off the water to the heater core correct?

The LS engines are designed to run constant water through the heater cores. The thermostat is in a bad area for sensing the heat in the engine and the inlet and outlet heater hoses flow water over the thermostat giving it a better heat reading from the engine. I would get a male-male barb fitting and loop the two heater hoses together to allow constant water flow over the thermostat and see if the temp stops fluctuation so much.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Some Updates

Well, it has been a while. I've been quite busy. Surprise government paid vacation to Africa, then a move to Alabama. Turns out I had more stuff than I thought, haha.

Spent a lot of time setting up my dream garage, I should probably start a thread just for that. It was certainly nice upgrading from a 2 car garage to a 3 car garage. So much room for activities. And starting to dable in a side business.

After getting settled in, I made a local connection with an offroad club. Did some southern style wheeling. Not a real big fan, mostly because I've never been a big fan of mud. And while my truck has gobs of power (they were all quite impressed) it is not well suited for mud. I'll be cleaning mud out of its nooks and crannies for years.









So I probably won't be doing that again. I'll have to find another way to fill my offroading desires. I'm convinced there has to be something cool in Tennessee. The mud didn't do me any favors. So I thought I'd take the time to redo a bunch of stuff I took short cuts on during the engine swap.

Started with the wiring. The truck had been running poorly, I'd been suspecting that the moisture here in the south had been getting into the cheap electrical connectors I'd made. Plus this rat's nest of wiring had to go. I'm surprised actually that it ran at all for the length of time it did. I mostly went this route early on cause I wasn't 100% sure it would even run, so I didn't want to do something too permanent.





After spending some time researching and planning, I was able to incorporate all of the new wiring into the factory fuze block.







I was pleased when it fired right up. And completely surprised at how much better the truck ran afterwards. I guess the connectors were worse than I thought, it even shifted better.

I also decided to do some work on the brakes. Upgraded to a 1.125 master cylinder. Normally this would be too much for Toyota brakes, but I have GM brakes in the rear and I'd been needing to pump the brakes to get a good solid pedal. I'm stilling working on bleeding the brakes. It surprises me how hard this is. Especially when you forget to bench bleed the master cylinder beforehand and don't want to remove it again.





I also stumbled across something in an effort to make rod ends last a little longer. In the couple months I've been here rust has already started to rear its head. And in the past I've had issues with rod ends seizing, probably due to dirt, moisture, and rust. I spotted these on Razrs and after a little searching found them. They're only a couple bucks each.

https://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=613









So ive worked with a few LS engines now and i think i may have something that will help with your temp. Not sure if it was mentioned in the thread, but im too lazy to look through it all to see if it was haha. I noticed you have the heater hoses hooked up to the stock toyota heater? Im pretty sure the stock toyota heater valve actually shuts off the water to the heater core correct?

The LS engines are designed to run constant water through the heater cores. The thermostat is in a bad area for sensing the heat in the engine and the inlet and outlet heater hoses flow water over the thermostat giving it a better heat reading from the engine. I would get a male-male barb fitting and loop the two heater hoses together to allow constant water flow over the thermostat and see if the temp stops fluctuation so much.
Thank you for the tip. I think maybe I'd heard something about this, but you're explanation makes a little more sense. Something that I did to help a lot was changing how the fan came on. The computer can control relays based on water temp. But it seems that I couldn't figure out how to program it properly. Had an overheating problem with the mudding trip (a lot of mud got into the radiator, that didn't help at all). The strangest thing was the engine was pushing 230 and the fans wouldn't turn on. Maybe a wiring issue, but it seemed to be turning on intermittently. Well...decided to just bypass the computer and have the fans turn on anytime the ignition is on. Can't really think of a reason why not, except for the couple minutes it takes for the engine to warm up the fans are running needlessly. But this just means that my A/C gets cold instantly (a really nice feature in the south) and I put a little extra mileage on the the fans. And unless I move to Alaska, it probably won't make a difference in the long run. The result is the temperature is much more stable. A little bit of rising so I may try that crossover on the heater tubes.
 

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Yours definitely sound better then that jeep lol

And good call on the fan. All the people i set up for racing i tell them to just turn them on before the race and dont turn them off. I know that electric motors pull more amps (and so more load) on start up. So leaving them running for hours should be easier on fans vs on/off. Good bearings in the fan are a very good idea vs cheaper bearing sleeves
 

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Discussion Starter #152
So decided to finally build the new bumper I've been wanting. Had to make some design changes from what I originally wanted. Really wanted something slim and aesthetic that hid the winch and kept it out of the weather. So I came up with the below. After making a lot more measurements and a few test peices, I had to make the bumper a little larger. Some of this is due to the fact that I had to move it foward because of moving the radiator forward, and also I had forgot to take into account my body lift so its a little taller. But I like the way it looks. The extra grill area (in order to keep from blocking the radiator too much) does expose the winch to some weather, but I figure that's really not that big of a deal. I can access the clutch lever from underneath, and the selenoids will be inside the engine compartment somewhere. Feedback is welcome.

 
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