[TRDOLMAN]

I went back to the dyno today for a couple of runs.

Dyno run with the 2.0" pulley: 275.1 RWHP @ 313.7 ft lbs of torque

Dyno run with the 2.2" pulley: 267.2 RWHP @ 290.2 ft lbs of torque

Run sheets are in the webshots link in my signature for you guys to look at.
What do you guys think of those numbers for a 4X4 auto?

Dave

 

[REDMARLIN WITH SOUL]

That is POWER, my friend

I went back to the dyno today for a couple of runs.

Dyno run with the 2.0" pulley: 275.1 RWHP @ 313.7 ft lbs of torque

Dyno run with the 2.2" pulley: 267.2 RWHP @ 290.2 ft lbs of torque

Run sheets are in the webshots link in my signature for you guys to look at.
What do you guys think of those numbers for a 4X4 auto?

Dave

Dave, what is the equation from your RWHP to stock HP? As per the 2.2 Pulley at 267.2 HP and 290.2 lbs torque? I am interested in the 2.2 pulley. The 2" I think is too aggressive for long distance driving creating a virtual oven under hood. Should have looked at "run sheets" before I posted because that was going to be my next question. Thanks for your post, it is appreciated. Remember, MANY appreciate it but only a few reply. Richie

'02 Pre-Runner. 3.4 TRD Puffer, 7th, headers, cat-back, air filter, step bars, Justin bull bar with KC fog lamps, Monomax shocks, Summit anti-roll tractions springs, ARE hard tonneau cover, home made bed rug.

 

[boosted]

so are you done yet? i didnt think so, theres always a few more ponies to be had. nice run!

 

[wisctaco04]

Awesome.......

 

[TRDOLMAN]

Dave, what is the equation from your RWHP to stock HP? As per the 2.2 Pulley at 267.2 HP and 290.2 lbs torque? I am interested in the 2.2 pulley. The 2" I think is too aggressive for long distance driving creating a virtual oven under hood. Should have looked at "run sheets" before I posted because that was going to be my next question. Thanks for your post, it is appreciated. Remember, MANY appreciate it but only a few reply. Richie

The question about an equation to go from RWHP to crank HP has been asked a lot with no real solid answers. I dyno'd my truck stock and got roughly 140 RWHP. Some people say that after doing mods to bring RWHP up just add the original difference back to the new RWHP figure. So in this case crank HP would be 267.2 + 50 (difference between the advertised 190 and the 140 I got on the dyno) = 317.2 crank HP.

Other "experts" say that a 4X4 automatic loses 25% of the power to the rear wheels. They also say to convert to crank HP from RWHP you divide the RWHP by .75 on the 4X4 auto. In this case, 267.2 divided by .75 = 356.27 at the crank.

What I decided to do was split it down the middle. 356.27 - 317.2 = 39.07 divided by 2 = 19.54 + 317.2 = 336.74.

In the end, I don't really know. All of the "experts" agree that the truck is making more than 300 HP at the crank and that's good enough for me.

Dave

 

[REDMARLIN WITH SOUL]

Interesting for sure. Have never seen the equation formula before or at least do not remember it. I would also "guess" that you had 300+ crank HP I figured my machine had 275 HP. I recall the '65 Mustang high performance 289 had 271 HP (though I belive it was low balled) and ran like hell. Power to weight ratio was in it's favor at about 3K pounds. With my add-ons I belive I am up @ 3500 lbs. Very curious to learn what your times and MPH will be in the 1/4 mile. Thanks for the reply. Richie


'02 Pre-Runner. Auto. 3.4 with TRD S/C, 7th Kit, Headers, cat-back, air filter, Denso IK20, Monomax shocks, Summit anti-roll traction springs, ARE hard tonneau cover, step bars, Justin bull bar with KC fog lamps, home made bed rug.

 

[TRDOLMAN]

According to these guys http://www.rpmoutlet.com/dyno.htm If I input 3800 lbs and the 275 RWHP, it says it should do the 1/4 mile in 13.97 @ 97.5 MPH. Track is closed until mid March. Believe it or not, a couple of guys on CT said the calcalator was pretty accurate.

Dave

 

[LocoTaco]

Do you have a copy of your AFR profile?

 

[saki302]

TRDOLMAN,

How much difference did the headers make on your HP?

I told myself if I wind up with a low 15-sec truck, or better yet, a high to mid 14-sec truck, I'll be REALLY happy!

The one thing that may help your 1/4 mile is a limited slip rear (or a strong locker), and smaller tires with sticky rubber. The torque curve of the 3.4 SC is pretty good though, so it may not need the small tires.
I had an idea before of finding the lightest 3.4L truck I could find (a low 2WD standard cab), and lightening it up and making it ast- you'd end up with something like a modern Syclone without AWD

-Dave

 

[DCabTaco]

I went back to the dyno today for a couple of runs.

Dyno run with the 2.0" pulley: 275.1 RWHP @ 313.7 ft lbs of torque

Dyno run with the 2.2" pulley: 267.2 RWHP @ 290.2 ft lbs of torque

Run sheets are in the webshots link in my signature for you guys to look at.
What do you guys think of those numbers for a 4X4 auto?

Dave

Hey Dave those are some pretty impressive numbers. That is what I am shooting for, at least 300 at the fly. Once I get all my stuff in I plan on getting it dynoed as well. If only this damn rain would stop then I could try to do something on my truck!!!!

 

[TRDOLMAN]

Do you have a copy of your AFR profile?

Not quite sure what you are asking for. My AFR's are set to 11.8 to 12.1 according to LM1. I don't use AFR readings from the dyno. I don't trust them.

Dave

 

[Breathegood]

Just can't wait to get new tires, can ya? Nice numbers. Any idea when URD might start selling your custom tank? Are you using straight distilled water at the dyno, or water/methanol mix? What kind of EGT's are you seeing with your setup on the 2.0 pully?

 

[TRDOLMAN]

Just can't wait to get new tires, can ya? Nice numbers. Any idea when URD might start selling your custom tank? Are you using straight distilled water at the dyno, or water/methanol mix? What kind of EGT's are you seeing with your setup on the 2.0 pully?

I have no idea. You'll have to ask them I guess. I use 60/40 water/methanol.
Don't know about the EGT's. I've done everything I can do to keep it as cool as I can. Dyno runs only last a matter of seconds so it won't get that hot. When I nail it on the street it gets to the speed limiter so fast it can't get that hot before I have to shut it down. An EGT guage would just give me one more guage to get paranoid about.

Dave

 

[anestech*]

The question about an equation to go from RWHP to crank HP has been asked a lot with no real solid answers. I dyno'd my truck stock and got roughly 140 RWHP. Some people say that after doing mods to bring RWHP up just add the original difference back to the new RWHP figure. So in this case crank HP would be 267.2 + 50 (difference between the advertised 190 and the 140 I got on the dyno) = 317.2 crank HP.

Other "experts" say that a 4X4 automatic loses 25% of the power to the rear wheels. They also say to convert to crank HP from RWHP you divide the RWHP by .75 on the 4X4 auto. In this case, 267.2 divided by .75 = 356.27 at the crank.

What I decided to do was split it down the middle. 356.27 - 317.2 = 39.07 divided by 2 = 19.54 + 317.2 = 336.74.

In the end, I don't really know. All of the "experts" agree that the truck is making more than 300 HP at the crank and that's good enough for me.

Dave

Parasitic loss for F-bodies is 15% for a manual, 20% for an auto. But I have a hard time believing that my essentially stock (aibox lid, catback and tuning) LS1 in the TA is putting out 375 hp... I'll take it, but I don't believe it.

I would imagine that the parasitic loss in your auto is around 15% or so.