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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a set of used 2.0 SAWs, the early version with the top plate. I'm planning on installing them as soon as I get a replacement heim bearing, running them for a month or so and then swapping back to my OMEs so I can rebuild the SAWs. I've seen the bajataco.com rebuild page, it's a great writeup, but the link for the SAW rebuild / revalve manual is dead. So here is my question: Does anybody have a link to that manual? A scanned copy that could be e-mailed to me or posted here?

I'll be posting a performance comparison soon, SAW vs OME. Same truck, same terrain. Should help people decide what would work best for their needs, if they will take a minute and search for it...
 

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Bump....

Anyone know. I am interested in getting a used set of SAWS and may have to rebuild them.
 

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Just a comment - Why would put on the SAWs then put the OMEs back on and then put the SAWs back on. You would have a tough time keeping any sort of alignment, probably goign without I am guessing? Wouldnt it just be best to do your evaluation of the OMEs now and then put the SAWs once and be done with that?
 

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www.bajataco.com

Look in the suspension section under the expediation vehicle, and there is a rebuild guide. Very easy to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
www.bajataco.com

Look in the suspension section under the expediation vehicle, and there is a rebuild guide. Very easy to do.
Bajataco's write up is awesome, but the link he had for the SAW manual is dead, and I didn't get a manual with my C/Os.

As for swapping fom one to the other, if I set the SAW ride height (lift) the same as my OMEs then alignment stays the same. Swapping is so easy that I don't mind doing it, and then I can get a feel for the SAW valving and decide if I want to change it. Shim stack valving is easy to change around if it's not right...
 

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I havent really heard of anyone changing thier valving. It's pretty good as is.

I don't know why you would need a manual. It's pretty straight forward, even to adjust...
 

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Has anyone ever tried to contact Sway-A-Way direct and see if they have rebuild instructions? I might try that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
SAW was my first call, the guy I talked to gave me some part #s and a parts list, but no manual. The biggest question I've got is the depth of the separator piston when refilling with oil. Is there a spec depth, or is it obvious by design where the piston starting point is? Maybe bottom both pistons in the bore and fill it with oil? Or set the sep piston in the bore, bottom the shaft and fill from there? In Bajatacos write up he only references the seperator piston when he said he coudn't get it out, but he never showed how to set it up.

It ain't rocket science, I'll figure it out if I have to...

Thanks for the help, TTORA is the best!
 

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Has anyone ever tried to contact Sway-A-Way direct and see if they have rebuild instructions? I might try that.
Sway A Way doesnt really deal with the public. They deal with dealers.
 

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SAW was my first call, the guy I talked to gave me some part #s and a parts list, but no manual. The biggest question I've got is the depth of the separator piston when refilling with oil. Is there a spec depth, or is it obvious by design where the piston starting point is? Maybe bottom both pistons in the bore and fill it with oil? Or set the sep piston in the bore, bottom the shaft and fill from there? In Bajatacos write up he only references the seperator piston when he said he coudn't get it out, but he never showed how to set it up.

It ain't rocket science, I'll figure it out if I have to...

Thanks for the help, TTORA is the best!
I would contact Camburg and talk to Steve IIRC. They are a sponsor of the forum, a dealer of SAW's, and very knowledgable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would contact Camburg and talk to Steve IIRC. They are a sponsor of the forum, a dealer of SAW's, and very knowledgable.
I'll call them tommorrow, thanks for the contact. I'm really looking forward to rebuilding these things and seeing how the internals are put together.
 

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I'll call them tommorrow, thanks for the contact. I'm really looking forward to rebuilding these things and seeing how the internals are put together.
Yea, I needa order my parts!
 

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I have rebuilt mine twice so far since the first time i didn't put the piston at the right depth to begin with. http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16573 in this thread i found out its suppose to be at 9 5/16ths. the rebuilds pretty simple and the 2nd time around it prolly took me 5 minute's to change out the seals. i put in a heavier weight shock oil then what was recommended from my searching around here but thats all the motorcycle shop had and it seems to be working better for me with my winch bumper then the lighter oil i had in before but that could be because of the piston depth before the rebuild
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have rebuilt mine twice so far since the first time i didn't put the piston at the right depth to begin with. http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16573 in this thread i found out its suppose to be at 9 5/16ths. the rebuilds pretty simple and the 2nd time around it prolly took me 5 minute's to change out the seals. i put in a heavier weight shock oil then what was recommended from my searching around here but thats all the motorcycle shop had and it seems to be working better for me with my winch bumper then the lighter oil i had in before but that could be because of the piston depth before the rebuild
Thats the answer I was looking for

Thank you
 

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I have rebuilt mine twice so far since the first time i didn't put the piston at the right depth to begin with. http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16573 in this thread i found out its suppose to be at 9 5/16ths. the rebuilds pretty simple and the 2nd time around it prolly took me 5 minute's to change out the seals. i put in a heavier weight shock oil then what was recommended from my searching around here but thats all the motorcycle shop had and it seems to be working better for me with my winch bumper then the lighter oil i had in before but that could be because of the piston depth before the rebuild
Great post! So it seems that after you shoot the disk out, you change out the o-ring, then push it down 9 5/16" on the side (not on the edge) then just fill with oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great post! So it seems that after you shoot the disk out, you change out the o-ring, then push it down 9 5/16" on the side (not on the edge) then just fill with oil?
That's how I'm reading it. Makes perfect sense because that leaves enough room for shaft displacement in the nitrogen reservior. I'm going to cycle them through the travel and check this # though, if this setting is done wrong all sorts of bad stuff can happen...
 

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i think the numbers are right, they came from one of the guys that works or used to work at saw and mine have been fine with it set at that.
 

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Seriously the baja taco thing is hella easy. I went into it blindy, first side took me an hour, second took me 10 mins. I also have first gen 2.0s. BTW have compressor and tire filler up attachment when you do. Its the only way to get the bottom out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the replies. I found a guy locally who had the parts list and assembly drawings that I was able to copy. The 1.386" from the bottom # is correct (adds up to the 9 5/16 from the top) according to the cutaway drawing. I should have them installed this week, then I'll be rebuilding them in a few weeks. I'll post my SAW vs OME results soon...
 

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Seriously the baja taco thing is hella easy. I went into it blindy, first side took me an hour, second took me 10 mins. I also have first gen 2.0s. BTW have compressor and tire filler up attachment when you do. Its the only way to get the bottom out of it.

Yeah looks easy, but I would imagine that not having that disc set at the proper hieght would make the shocks perform incorrectly...


yamataco, make sure that you use anti sieze on the threads (especially on the adjsuting collar). Just a light coat is all you need.
 
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