TTORA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I heard this was done before but I couldn't find any threads on it . . . Basically, I've been trying to clearance everything for my set of 37s. . . . I trimmed the front ARB bumper and clearanced the pinchweld. . . . The only thing I was still rubbing on is the fender flares . . .





So here's an easy way to gain another inch of clearance with the stock fender flares. (Yes, I know I could just get rid of them, but I personally like flares, and I didn't want to pay for some ugly aftermarket set.) So here's what we did . . .

We just pulled out the bottom of the flare, took a cutting wheel and trimmed off some of the body panel behind it, pushed the flare back toward the door, and put a self-tapping screw through it . . . .Viola! Plenty of room for the tires now . . . .








Sorry, I don't have a picture of the truck flexing, but we did test it on a forklift and there was more than 1/2 an inch of clearance now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,049 Posts
Nice job. I love you truck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
nice job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hmmm. . . Oh well, I guess it's too late for that. It was a real pain holding that flare back while my buddy put in the self-tapper, so I don't wanna have to take it back off again . . .

But I can tell you that the body cutting wasn't that much. We basically removed the bottom bolt that mounts the flare below the body and pulled the flare back. Then we removed the clip that holds the plastic skirt protecting the pinchweld (the littel circular black clip that you can't really put back in). . . .

Then we cut about 4 inches high from bottom to top, and about an inch deep (measured from the outside of the wheelwell to the inside). Once that strip of body was cut off, the flare could be moved back. It also required pulling off about 3 of those little clips that hold the flare (two red ones and a blue one). Once we got the flare where we wanted it, we held it in place and put the self-tapper through the bottom, closer to the door than the original mounting point. The little red and blue clips broke in the process but I had some extras with me to put back in because I knew that would happen. . . .

Here's a diagram if that helps at all. . . .





The lower black circle shows the clip that was removed. The red box shows all of the body that was cut off behind the flare. Notice we stopped just below the next black circular clip. The yellow circle shows the bolt that we removed. The self-tapper was inserted about an inch toward the door from there. . . .
 

·
truck ~n~ tow
Joined
·
10,917 Posts
X2 ^^^
Shouldn't that rectangle be cut in a triangulated pattern. ?

Write ups with no progress pictures... irk me...


:worthless

Pull the damn fender flare already.... sheesh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
Hmmm. . . Oh well, I guess it's too late for that. It was a real pain holding that flare back while my buddy put in the self-tapper, so I don't wanna have to take it back off again . . .

But I can tell you that the body cutting wasn't that much. We basically removed the bottom bolt that mounts the flare below the body and pulled the flare back. Then we removed the clip that holds the plastic skirt protecting the pinchweld (the littel circular black clip that you can't really put back in). . . .

Then we cut about 4 inches high from bottom to top, and about an inch deep (measured from the outside of the wheelwell to the inside). Once that strip of body was cut off, the flare could be moved back. It also required pulling off about 3 of those little clips that hold the flare (two red ones and a blue one). Once we got the flare where we wanted it, we held it in place and put the self-tapper through the bottom, closer to the door than the original mounting point. The little red and blue clips broke in the process but I had some extras with me to put back in because I knew that would happen. . . .

Here's a diagram if that helps at all. . . .





The lower black circle shows the clip that was removed. The red box shows all of the body that was cut off behind the flare. Notice we stopped just below the next black circular clip. The yellow circle shows the bolt that we removed. The self-tapper was inserted about an inch toward the door from there. . . .
so the little red and blue clips were able to mount back up in the stock holes even with the bottom being stretched down like that???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
X2 ^^^
Shouldn't that rectangle be cut in a triangulated pattern. ?

Write ups with no progress pictures... irk me...


:worthless

Pull the damn fender flare already.... sheesh
Sorry about that. . . . . Posting up this little project was sort of an after thought. . . . But it doesn't really seem worth it to pull it apart again just for pics.
 

·
truck ~n~ tow
Joined
·
10,917 Posts
Sorry about that. . . . . Posting up this little project was sort of an after thought. . . . But it doesn't really seem worth it to pull it apart again jsut for pics.
Bah... it's only a 2 minute deal to unscrew 6 little bolts...

What the hell is a cheap trick... with out the tech to show what the hell was done...

But it's yer thread... so I'll move on...

Oh and there's no reason to be sorry... a little guilty maybe though :D
 

·
NorCal Chapter Pres
Joined
·
12,213 Posts
Hm, maybe this could solve the problem for the rear?

What I'm confused on is do you cut the flare, or the actual cab?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,898 Posts
Man, I'm confused too. Wish we had some pics. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Bah... it's only a 2 minute deal to unscrew 6 little bolts...
Well, not quite. . . . It requires unscrewing the self-tapped screw (which may not hold as well when drilled in the second time around), then breaking the flare clips again when I pull back the flare. After that, to put it back on, I would need to get new clips and put them in there, then find someone to push the flare into place while I try to tap a new screw in a new hole . . . . All that just to see the body behind there that was trimmed a little bit. . . . I'm sure you can imagine it . . . . Anyhow, I do wish I thought of taking pics to begin with, but I didn't . . . . So this thread is all I have to offer. . . .
Hm, maybe this could solve the problem for the rear?

What I'm confused on is do you cut the flare, or the actual cab?
You cut the cab, not the flare . . . The flare is hollow so if you cut the flare you're gonna see a hole in it. . . .

Basically, the only reason for any cutting at all is because the edge of the cab prevents the flare from being pushed back enough. . . . You just want to shave off enough so that the flare can be pushed into the new position and mounted with a new screw. . .

As for the flare clips, I found that on the passenger side, I was able to get the flare back on the clips without a problem. On the driver side, I found that the blue clip at the top of the flare didn't want to get back into the flare. So there's a little gap at the top. But it's not really noticable and the flare is still secure by all the other clips and the screws that hold it in place. . . .

For the rear, I just chose to cut off the bottom of the bed. The front of the flare doesn't seem to ever rub . . . .


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Man, I'm confused too. Wish we had some pics. :D
Sheesh! . . . Ok, if anyone tries this project and really gets hung up trying to figure out how to shave the body underneath the flare, then I'll take mine apart for some pics . . . Sound fair enough? :cool:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,898 Posts
Sheesh! . . . Ok, if anyone tries this project and really gets hung up trying to figure out how to shave the body underneath the flare, then I'll take mine apart for some pics . . . Sound fair enough? :cool:
Just bustin yer balls. Sounds easy enough to figger out.
--Scott
 

·
truck ~n~ tow
Joined
·
10,917 Posts
LOL... yeah were bustin' yer balls...

'cause you wrote a tech thread... But forgot to remember the tech... ahem

So I guess you were looking for an 'at-a-boy...

Ok... here ya go :clap:

If and when :rolleyes:
I got new clips and screws you can have (enough to do it all) ... Put a nut/bolt on... instead of a sheetmetal screw... That's thing is gone rust shiat or pop out anyhow... Maybe a nylon threaded bolt... and prep the sheetmetal so's you don't start a cancer growth... :2cents:
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top