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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone ever tried running an engine oil cooler? Every time I fix my timing (using the FTC), the ECU learns to ping again, and I was wondering if this might help. I have a supercharger, basic URD kit, headers, and exhaust.
 

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If you have a 5vz you do not need an oil cooler, the engine already has one. It does a very good job maintaining proper engine oil temps.

Tell me more about this ping. What manifold pressure, what RPM and so on are you seening this?
 

· Stinks like fish
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Gadjet,

With your experience with your monitoring gauges what is the average time to operating temperature of the oil in the 5vz(assuming mild ambient conditions) and does it creep above coolant temperature at all at highway speeds?
Most people don't know that this engine has a coolant to oil heat exchanger, a description of its function and location on the motor would be helpfull for a reference point on this forum understanding the cyclic nature of these questions.
 

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It seems to take about 10-15 minutes to come upto full operating temp at highway speeds.

Yes, the oil temp does go above coolant temp, when it does it switchs from being a oil warmer to cooler. On mine at normal highway speeds it holds the oil temp around 210*F. The faster the maintained speed the higher the temp since the oil stays in the engine longer and is picking up more heat instead of laying in the pan giving up heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gadget said:
If you have a 5vz you do not need an oil cooler, the engine already has one. It does a very good job maintaining proper engine oil temps.

Tell me more about this ping. What manifold pressure, what RPM and so on are you seening this?
Gadget,
I'm hearing the ping at anywhere from -1psi to 6 psi (according to the boost guage), and all the way from 1500 to 3000 RPM. It changes from day to day and hour to hour. I'm just afraid it's going to get worse as summer approaches. I had Mark at SS dial in my FTC, so my next step is to check the gap on my sparkplugs, but I have a hard time knowing how accurrate that is. Is the wire feeler supposed to slip through with no resistance, slight resistance, or what? Thanks for any insight.
 

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If the spark knock you are hearing is below 3000 RPM, you just need to increase the retard amout to eliminate it. That is the whole point why we use the FTC, so we can eliminate this ping. You can do it yourself by using the proceedure found in the U-Tune guide or have Split Second or URD do it for you. There may be a slight charge for this.
 

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cloomis3,

If you're in pasadena, that's not too far from me. I'll be tuning my URD kit soon, just waiting for the FTC before the final installation steps.
If you'd like, I could probably help tune your retard map, or just turn it back a notch and see how that runs. I have a laptop and most of the other gear to tune.
I'm near Hollywood, not far from Glendale.

PS- Gadget, I was re-reading the U-tune guide and had a question- When you make changes int he FTC fuel and retard maps, is the change real-time, or do you have to flash or update the FTC for the change to take place?

-Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gadget said:
If the spark knock you are hearing is below 3000 RPM, you just need to increase the retard amout to eliminate it. That is the whole point why we use the FTC, so we can eliminate this ping. You can do it yourself by using the proceedure found in the U-Tune guide or have Split Second or URD do it for you. There may be a slight charge for this.
Gadget,
I've been playing with the timing retard for over a year now, and every time I get it taken care of the ECU learns how to ping again, which makes me think there is something else wrong. Also, I can be on the same stretch of road, same RPM, same manifold pressure, but two different days, and it will ping one day but not the other. I don't understand why it works differently on different days if all I need is a set amount of retard in the timing map. I'm just worried that there's something else in the loop that I'm missing.
 

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Well, I have never heard of this happening before. It maybe that you just don't have enough retard dialed in.

Use the proceedure in the U-Tune guide to compact the database, and then ZIP the file to a compressed folder and email it to me. I would like to see what your map looks like. Also include all of your vehicle info.
 
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