[Jade]

Well, I placed my order for 3 gal of Evans Cooling NPG+ coolant. I'm going to try this in my S/C'd V6 Tacoma. I've been running it (happily) in my BMW K1100RS for a few years now and during the second week of April (Spring Break) I plan on doing the T-Belt, water pump, pulleys, T-stat and some other PM stuff. Stay tuned.....get it?

 

[BigMudTruk]

Well, I placed my order for 3 gal of Evans Cooling NPG+ coolant. I'm going to try this in my S/C'd V6 Tacoma. I've been running it (happily) in my BMW K1100RS for a few years now and during the second week of April (Spring Break) I plan on doing the T-Belt, water pump, pulleys, T-stat and some other PM stuff. Stay tuned.....get it?

I have it in my truck, have since august of last year. I used the NPG flush as well.

 

[Jade]

I did order the flush too. Do you notice anything different or unusual? I've had it in my BMW for a few seasons. Before, I had issues with the standard coolant expanding too much and oozing out the overflow tank to gunk up the side of the bike. It wouldn't do it at low elevations where there was greater atmospheric pressure, just up where I live.

 

[BigMudTruk]

I did order the flush too. Do you notice anything different or unusual? I've had it in my BMW for a few seasons. Before, I had issues with the standard coolant expanding too much and oozing out the overflow tank to gunk up the side of the bike. It wouldn't do it at low elevations where there was greater atmospheric pressure, just up where I live.

I notice it warms up much faster, somewhat reduced pinging. I have no evaporation losses from the overflow to speak of and temp stability in extreme hot and cold weather is much more steady. (per a obdII scanner) I too swapped it in during a t-belt and h2o pump job.

 

[Jade]

Ah! The pinging. That's one reason that I'm doing it. My truck has some areas of the map with as much as 6 degrees of retard. I'm kind of hoping that I'll be able to bring that number down some. Thanks for the information.

 

[BigMudTruk]

Ah! The pinging. That's one reason that I'm doing it. My truck has some areas of the map with as much as 6 degrees of retard. I'm kind of hoping that I'll be able to bring that number down some. Thanks for the information.

Yeah no problem. I too have used the Evans before. I also picked it because of its high boiling point, and my confidence that I can run it w/o changing all the way to my next T-belt and water pump service (90k ish). I've put about 20k on the truck w/the NPG+ in it.

 

[deserttrd4x]

what kind of h/p + mpg increase are we talking about here with this product? Its kinda high dollar product. Also it says to adjust engine fan temps, how is that done? and to advance spark timing?

 

[VF'N8]

what kind of h/p + mpg increase are we talking about here with this product? Its kinda high dollar product. Also it says to adjust engine fan temps, how is that done? and to advance spark timing?

If it actually can reduce ping threshold Id be amazed if it would be enough so you could add some retard back. I would guess 1-2hp gain in the right conditions, with no supercharger 0hp gain. You need a adjustable thermostat fan controller to change at what temp the fans come on or turn off. Id put this in that every little bit counts catergory.

 

[BigMudTruk]

For me it was the piece of mind it offered. Toyota long life coolant is stupid expensive. Evans was about the same or less, and I feel it was a much better product. It is expensive, but I also dont have to worry about changing it anytime in the next 100k miles, and probably longer. The fact it doesnt boil until 400 degrees at 0 psi is also a big plus for me in other applications that run much hotter, I use it in my 68 Chevelle and have seen tremendous gains there in terms of cooling system performance.

 

[Jade]

I spoke with the Tech department concerning the fan issue and plugging the coolant by-pass, he suggested not doing it in my case. I've read the site a couple of times over the years too. Lots of squinting. The only thing that the tech department thought might be a concern is that if the coolant gets too hot, that heat could be tranfered to the engine oil via the heat exchanger. It's down on the left side of the engine. The coolant heats up faster than the oil, so it transfers that heat to the oil. Also, when the oil gets really hot, it can transfer that heat to the coolant. A problem could arise if the coolant gets above the temp that you want your oil to be...about 250F if I recall correctly....there wouldn't be anywhere for that heat to go. The highest coolant temp that I've ever noted in my truck is 203F and that was climbing a 7% grade at about 100mph for a 8 mile stretch, at over 9,0000 ft.

 

[Jade]

So I was pouring the Pre-Flush into the radiator thinking, "Mmmm, I wish the water from my tap looked this clear....."

So far I don't think that I'll be able to lessen the amount of retard in my timing map, but that's okay.

I've had only one chance to run it up the pass while monitoring the coolant temp. The highest reading that I observed was 199*F, the ambient temp was just above freezing. After driving the truck for over 40 continuous miles at one time, the top of the radiator was hot to the touch, but the bottom was only slightly warm. I never thought to check this prior to the changeover.

Next weekend will be my next trip over the pass, and if my laptop doesn't have some sort of fit (thank you Microsoft Updates) I'll bring it along for the ride.

So far things seem to be very normal....

 

[Pearce951]

Evans Is some amazing stuff thats for sure I ran some in my Diesel 4Runner and if it hadent been for the evans I would have cracked the head. once when I threw a fan belt and dint realize till about 20 mins later.

 

[mt_goat]

Any updates?

 

[Jade]

For the first week or so I kept an eye on the fluid level in the overflow as it stabilized (pretty much right away), and, uh, forgot about it. I've done only one real run over the pass, and some slow wheeling in cool weather. In a nutshell, if I didn't already know that it was in there, I wouldn't know that it was in there.

As summer kicks in I'm going to try to monitor if it runs any hotter or cooler. I really don't see that happening though, as that's regulated by the thermostat.....

 

[ah64id]

So what does it have that makes the boiling point up at 400*?? That seems stupid high... I ask beacuse normally it takes more additives and coolant to h20 ratio, which does increase the boil temp and lower the freeze point but it wont dicipate heat as quickly, so when it gets hot it stays there.

 

[mt_goat]

It's not so much what it has as what it doesn't have, water. You have to remove all the water from the system to get that high boiling pt.

 

[Jade]

You'll really have to read the website to get the full information.

Water's heat transfer qualities are really quite exellent, it's problem is it's boiling point, it's so close to the ideal operating temperature of most engines. The cold weather issues should be obvious as water expands when it freezes.

Coolant is what has been added to water to aid in increasing the boiling point and decrease the freezing point. Pressurizing the system also aids with increasing the boiling point.

Originally, Evans coolant required that a higher speed "water" pump was required to increase the coolant flow to help "cool the coolant" but was suitable for liquid cooled motorcycles due to their higher RPMs at cruising speeds.

 

[mt_goat]

Was 3 gals enough for the 5VZFE? If so, how much did you have left over?

 

[Jade]

The system capacity is 10 quarts, just over two gallons. I use it in my motorcycle as well and I prefer having a little extra around, in this case, more than a half gallon.

If you change yours, don't forget the heater core....

 

[mt_goat]

The system capacity is 10 quarts, just over two gallons. I use it in my motorcycle as well and I prefer having a little extra around, in this case, more than a half gallon.

If you change yours, don't forget the heater core....

Gotcha, thanks :kewl: