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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So i joined the ranks of those w/ the common manifold crack and after much delay dove into it. problem is the 6 nuts holding the manifold on seemed to prefer to act as bolts instead. 5/6 brought the whole stud out of the block as well. and the only one i had to use a breaker bar on came off as it should.

and yes i PB blasted everything for the three previous days.

So my question is how to proceed. Take the nuts off the studs still, reset studs and assemble? i suppose there is no sense in driving the studs back in by way of fozen nut ass. and torquing to spec. I got torque specs for everything but the studs ( probably cause there not suppposed to come out) and is there another SST i'll be buying to drive these guys back home?

thanks for any help
HECTOR
 

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double nut
 

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I'd buy new studs and locknuts, I don't like to reuse a rusted/frozen locknut. I think (IIRC) I got the tool for driving those studs home at Sears.
 

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The Satanic Panic
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get new studs and put anti seize on the threads
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks guys. im off to find a tool for the install. ive ordered new studs and nuts; and searched threw TIS and an incomplete FSM but still didnt find a torqe spec for the studs, just the nuts. anybody know or better yet got the proper name/size of the tool im looking for so i dont look like to big a tard askin for a nut driver. is it a torx socket...? at least i get to take one with me.
 

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is it a torx socket...?
Yeah that's what I used, Sears has them in the auto tools area (in sets of 6 sizes). I can't find the torque spec for the stud either. Of course be carefull with aluminum heads. Some place that sells header studs (like Downey) may have a good spec to use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks goat
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok so ive been told by some higher powers that this info would be located in the back of the into section of the FSM. uhum so anybody w/ a 99 FSM wanna help out? Should be titled standard bolt torque specifications. section 1 for identification and section 2 should have hardness,thread,torques.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks goat---

It looks like a class 4t stud bolt w/ no markings. NC ttora site is down past day or two and work got in the way of life, but now work is depending on the taco. Do you have page two to that service spec sheet posted above. i looked through all kinds of folders and never saw that one.

im out getting everything else back in place, will check in in a bit
 

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thanks goat---

It looks like a class 4t stud bolt w/ no markings. NC ttora site is down past day or two and work got in the way of life, but now work is depending on the taco. Do you have page two to that service spec sheet posted above. i looked through all kinds of folders and never saw that one.

im out getting everything else back in place, will check in in a bit
Yeah it takes a while to learn your way around those files, it helps if you have the real FSMs to actually thumb through.

Here is page 2 http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2003/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/ss/stabol/stfsb.pdf but it doesn't really say for studs, I think I just used the spec for a hexhead bolt IIRC. You may have a hard time even get to that spec with those tiny torx head sockets, I did.
 

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it's a stud, doesn't need to be torqued down. Just tighten it to where it just bottoms out on the shoulder in the middle. then you torque down the nut and that will get everything tight. I think there was one nut where there was no way i could get a socket/torque wrench on. I had to use a combination wrench to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks guys almost back together!!! but rargh one more special order part delay. seems i got all new studs and nuts except the EGR to manifold set. they came out of the old one fine, but only one will thread into the new manifold. new studs should be here tuesday, but thats got me stuck for now. almost want to go find a bolt instead, but ill just hope the brake pads show up for the 80 in the next couple hours or im stuck drivin the 55 :eek:
 
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