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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
I recently moved down to southern Texas and have started to use my AC system again. Unfortunately though, the air temp blowing out of the vents is only a few degrees cooler than normal (when the AC button is not pushed on). I bought a recharge kit and refilled my system about a week ago (it was below normal levels). It worked great at first but now it's back to it's old self of not really working. Also, and I have no idea if this has anything to do with anything, whenever I turn on/off my AC, there seems to be a type of hissing sound coming from the vents.

Any ideas/suggestions?

Thanks
 

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What's the year on your truck? It is common for the low pressure side to develop a crack where it goes through the firewall in the early models (95.5-97??).

You can add some leak detector, but good luck seeing the spot unless you take your dash apart first. The only fix is to replace it, and it may break again....It's a design flaw that allows the line to flex and eventually crack.
 

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Hey guys,
I recently moved down to southern Texas and have started to use my AC system again. Unfortunately though, the air temp blowing out of the vents is only a few degrees cooler than normal (when the AC button is not pushed on). I bought a recharge kit and refilled my system about a week ago (it was below normal levels). It worked great at first but now it's back to it's old self of not really working. Also, and I have no idea if this has anything to do with anything, whenever I turn on/off my AC, there seems to be a type of hissing sound coming from the vents.

Any ideas/suggestions?

Thanks
put a small amount of oil around the schrader valves/service ports....look for lil bubbles. If you don`t see any it`s mostly likely yer compressor`s front seal. If you don`t cycle yer ac system every couple weeks the seal drys up and wears and leaks freon out.

mine is doing the same thing, I just haven`t gotten around to do it yet....and it`s 92 today...:eek:
 

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put a small amount of oil around the schrader valves/service ports....look for lil bubbles. If you don`t see any it`s mostly likely yer compressor`s front seal. If you don`t cycle yer ac system every couple weeks the seal drys up and wears and leaks freon out.

mine is doing the same thing, I just haven`t gotten around to do it yet....and it`s 92 today...:eek:
Say what? The seals dry up if you don't us your A/C every couple of weeks? What kind of BS is that?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all for the replies. It's a 2003 w/ just short of 60,000 miles on it. I'm coming up on a pretty major preventive maintenance interval so I'll just have the mechanics check for a leak when I take it in then. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, the a/c is completely done for now. Absolutely no cold air blowing anymore and anytime I have it turned on (or the defrost for that matter) it makes a constant hissing sound. In my very limited mechanical knowledge, I'm convinced there's a decent sized leak. Any ideas as to how much something like this might cost to fix?
Need to do it soon, south texas is hot and i'm sweating balls...
 

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Well, the a/c is completely done for now. Absolutely no cold air blowing anymore and anytime I have it turned on (or the defrost for that matter) it makes a constant hissing sound. In my very limited mechanical knowledge, I'm convinced there's a decent sized leak. Any ideas as to how much something like this might cost to fix?
Need to do it soon, south texas is hot and i'm sweating balls...
The early models had a flaw that allowed the line to flex and eventually crack and leak out the R-134. The crack is too big to be fixed with a can of "R-134 leak fix" besides the flexing of the line just reopens up the crack with every bump on the road. The only solution is to get a new evaporator line, which will break again in time.

Do you have a body lift? That also causes the evaporator line to crack.
 

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The early models had a flaw that allowed the line to flex and eventually crack and leak out the R-134. The crack is too big to be fixed with a can of "R-134 leak fix" besides the flexing of the line just reopens up the crack with every bump on the road. The only solution is to get a new evaporator line, which will break again in time.

Do you have a body lift? That also causes the evaporator line to crack.
What about getting a longer line and reducing the angles on it? Is it the angle causing it to crack or the material? Engine heat?
 

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Its a weakness in the design. The crack occurs in the same spot, where the tube is bent at a 90° angle. Constant stresses on the tubes from engine vibrations will cause the crack to happen eventually. Best thing you can do is carefully bend the tubes downward on the engine bay side. That will keep the stress to a minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Still no luck- My roommate and I tried to isolate the leak today using an auto stethoscope but that didn't work. Next I took it to a mechanic who seemed to be a pretty nice guy and he used one of those electronic "sniffers" to try and isolate it. He's saying the leak is coming from the evaporator inside the dash (ugh...). While he didn't charge me anything for isolating the leak, a price estimate for replacing it puts it at approx. $350 for labor and a very rough guess of $400+ for a new evaporator. Does this sound about right?

I'm not looking to spend $350 on labor so I think my roommate and I are going to try and replace it ourselves. Will we have to take off the entire dash to get to it? Any suggestions on where to look to get a new evaporator? Any other hints/suggestions? Thanks again for all your answers. They've been a lot of help.

Oh, I did mention to the mechanic that several people had suggested it might be the evaporator line that has a crack in it but he said that's on the other side of the firewall so it's tough to say whether or not that's the problem or not. True? Thanks again.
 

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Say what? The seals dry up if you don't us your A/C every couple of weeks? What kind of BS is that?
obviously you never looked at an automotive a/c compressor, 90% of them have a front seal that takes a shit....seal dries out from not being cycled, or get a nick in it and shreads itself.

this is the first year I didn`t cycle mine....and the seal is leaking.
electronic leak detectors work great.
 

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You don't need the evaporator, just the lines going from the expansion valve through the firewall, and you might as well replace the expansion valve also. Its not hard to do, pull the glovebox and some more stuff and replace some stuff and reinstall and your done. Then evacuate the air, and charge the refrigerent and wait for the compressor to leak.
 

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You don't need the evaporator, just the lines going from the expansion valve through the firewall, and you might as well replace the expansion valve also. Its not hard to do, pull the glovebox and some more stuff and replace some stuff and reinstall and your done. Then evacuate the air, and charge the refrigerent and wait for the compressor to leak.

X 2
 

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Having a problem with my A/C on '97 3.4. Took it in to have it looked at and realized the compressor "froze up" and tore the belt off! Have you guys seen this b4? Should I plan on replacing the entire compressor or just the clutch?
 

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Having a problem with my A/C on '97 3.4. Took it in to have it looked at and realized the compressor "froze up" and tore the belt off! Have you guys seen this b4? Should I plan on replacing the entire compressor or just the clutch?
If the compressor froze up you need a compressor, if the clutch bearing froze up you need a clutch and then have to inspect the compressor extension housing and the snap ring grove. Either way, you probably need both. And a receiver dryer, and maybe an expansion valve or the condenser if there is a lot of metal in the system.
 

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If the compressor froze up you need a compressor, if the clutch bearing froze up you need a clutch and then have to inspect the compressor extension housing and the snap ring grove. Either way, you probably need both. And a receiver dryer, and maybe an expansion valve or the condenser if there is a lot of metal in the system.

:clap: well said......this guy knows his shit :clap:
I just know that front compressor seals leak, and the schrader valves can get pretty small leaks-if the cap is tight and you hear a burp when you loosen it...it`s leaking....the best way to find it is to use a soap based leak detector and look for bubbles.
 
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