[ShadyRevelation]

I have a 2000 Tacoma 4x4 TRD stock w/SNUGTOP camper shell. I want to be able to run 33/12.50 ProComp Mud Terrains without any rubbing and hopefully without having to do a pinch weld mod or whatever. This is my daily driving vehicle so it needs to handle well on paved roads and the highway, but I want it to be a very capable 4x4 for off-roading in the mountains of northern california. I am just trying to finalize the exact parts I am going to need and have a couple more questions. Here are my plans:

Front Suspension:

Extended Travel Donahoe Coilovers
Camburg Upper Control Arms
Total Chaos 1" Differential Drop Spacer
Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings
need to find high-angle cv boot kit(trd, downey, cv unlimited?)
Considering 1-1.5" coil spacers (daystar or cornfed?)

Rear Suspension: 3 options

Deaver 7 leaf pack(2" of lift, maybe a little less because of the camper shell)
Downey heavy duty shackles (1.5" of lift I think)

1.
I have heard that you can run the Bilstein 7100 10" short body shock valved at 255/70 without having to weld new shock mounts and just having to replace bushings or something like that. Is it true that you can put 7100s without having to change the shock mounts and would these ride better then the 5100s which are on backorder and the 5150s which I have heard both good and bad things about so I am not to sure about them.

2. I spend the $400 on Demello's rear rock crawler shock relocation and get the short body 12" 7100s and I learn how to weld or I find someone who can do it relatively cheap. Does anyone run this setup, how well does it run and how hard is it to install.

3. I figure out how or have someone else weld custom mounts for me. I wait until the 5100s are back in stock(Could be a month or two). Are there other/better options you can think of?

Here are a couple more questions:

Should I get the coil spacers? I do not want my 33s to rub and I think I am going to put the Downey HD shackles which add 1.5" of lift in the back. With the deaver 7 leaf pack adding about 2" I should have between 3-3.5" of lift in the back with the camper shell correct? Would you set the Donahoe coilovers at 2" or 2.5" and should I add either 1" or a 1.5" coil spacers to the front to get the 3-3.5" of lift in the front? Or would you not use the downey shackles or the coil spacers and have the tires rub or do a mod? I think the cornfed spacers sound nicer then the daystar ones, what is your opinion? Are the coil spacers going to make the handling much worse, increase cv breakage, raise the center of gravity making the vehicle more unstable or just be the overall weak point on the vehicle?

I have been hearing that I should get a high-angle cv boot kit. I have heard that trd, downey and cv unlimited all make them for the tacoma, but I can't find a high angle cv boot kit anywhere. Could someone please give me a little more information on this?

I am looking at the ProComp Mud Terrain 33/12.50 tires on Mickey Thompson classic simulated beadlock 16/8 rims. Are these the correct size rims and are these nice rims to get? Any other suggestions on tires and rims would be greatly appreciated. Also, how quickly will these kind of tires wear out on the road?

When I order these parts what other parts do I/should I order at the same time? I am going to get atleast a extended break line. Anything else?

Thank you for you help. I know there are a quite a few questions. I really didn't realize I still had so many.

 

[Nanotruck]

You don't want to run the coilovers and the spacers. I used to say can't, but it causes debate. For instance...You can't drink rat poison. Of course, there will be somebody that says you can. Believe me, you don't want to.

 

[KStacoma]

I agree, the spacer will do nothing but hinder your ride quality, just stick w/the coilover. With those m/t wheels the backspacing i believe is 3 5/8" which will stick it out quite a bit and i guarantee you will need to do the pinchweld, which i dont see why you are so bothered by, it is just a little metal tab behind the plastic in the fender well that you bend flat. I can't comment on the tires, i run goodyear mt'r's and have excellent wear on them. With all that money in your suspension etc. and roling 33's and you mentioned highway driving, you need to consider a regear too, since you are v6 i'd recomend a 4.56 gear, i'm at 4.88 but i'm a 2.7l w/33's. Anyways, i tried to hit some of your questions

 

[rojodiablo]

The verdict is out on the diff drop; it seems the guys who have them say they weren't so necessary, considering the re-work to do with the skidplates changing location. Cv unlimited and Downey do both make a cv boot which is MORE SUITED to the high cv angle. No one will claim their stuff is "THE" stuff for that. Bottom line, you might want to get good at fixing these... I personally think the donahoes are worthless. Wait... Just checking to see if you are paying attention. I wouldn't mix anything else with a top notch item like this. It's like Chivas Regal and diet coke... BLECCH!!! The rear is good, any which way. Last time I checked, the new taco guys were wondering if potholes on the 405 were going to cause their bondo beds to break, and maybe a 7100 series would help that!!! But for a well setup daily driver, you are going to be fine with 5100's. I dunno, do you jump your daily driver much?? Or assault sledgehammer with it? If not, you don't need to move anything. Just go with the present locations, and be a happy guy!! Mudders get eaten up faster on a daily driver, and unless your deal is MUD&SNOW, you will be better served with A/T's on a daily driver. :xdevil:

 

[01tacoboy]

Do not be suprised if you rub off road with that setup. I have 2.5"s of suspension lift (kings, AAL) and a 3" RB body lift with 33x12.5x15s on 15X8 3.75" backspace rims and rub when I go 4 wheelin. I also did the pinchweld mod.

The bilstein 5100s are a good shock. I wouldn't stack a spacer on the donahoes. For the rear the donahoes may be too soft for hauling much weight
in the bed. If you tow or haul much, an AAL works good. The procomps wear decent on the street, but are not great off road. MTRs are a all around good tire as are BFGs.You might consider either adding a body lift to clear 33s or step down to a 32x11.50 tire. Good luck.

 

[atwinda]

If you are dead set on not doing the pinch weld mod, I would suggest a 1 or 2" body lift. Stacking spacers on coilovers is just not a good idea. You're already getting the extended hoes, and upper arms, which is fine, but if you were able to deal with the terrible ride of a stacked spacer, your cv would hyper extended at full droop.

Diff drop, save your money. I was running 1.25" spacers, and still am wearing out my boots. The thing that I believe to be important to prolonging the life of the boots, is keeping them clean. Do not allow dirt build up between the fins- it acts like sandpaper.

You'll need extended brakes lines- goto peter parks site and he has a link to custom made lines that will work with the 2.5 coilovers (there is an issue with them hitting the brake lines). I am not sure if he has a rear line made by them, but camburg, and wheelers sell extended length rear lines.

I did someones rear shcocks with 7100 12" short bodies. Boxed the frame, added a crossmember, and welded on the tabs. He has deavers too.. he couldn't be more happy with the setup.

 

[hytenor]

I have a 2000 Tacoma 4x4 TRD stock w/SNUGTOP camper shell. I want to be able to run 33/12.50 ProComp Mud Terrains without any rubbing and hopefully without having to do a pinch weld mod or whatever. This is my daily driving vehicle so it needs to handle well on paved roads and the highway, but I want it to be a very capable 4x4 for off-roading in the mountains of northern california. I am just trying to finalize the exact parts I am going to need and have a couple more questions. Here are my plans:

with what you describe here I would forget the simple sus lift and go right to the Tough Country 5" drop bracket lift and adjustable coilovers cranked for 1-1/2" of additional lift or as need to 'completely' clear 33x12.50s.
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacoma mods/lift/tuff country/tuffcountry.htm as well as several other writeups he has done since the install.
for load capacity go with custom Alcans rather than the Deavers.
http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacoma mods/lift/alcan rear springs/alcan.htm


but, if you insist...

Front Suspension:

Extended Travel Donahoe Coilovers
fine, but consider adding limit straps to stop the chance of hyper-extending the inner tripod joints the 1" longer shocks. I have done this but with only a 1/2" longer shock (OME N91) and others have done it with OE shocks under the right extreme conditions. Adding a 1" longer shock and the upper control Uniballs allows for that much more down travel and the risk of overextending the axles is very real.


Camburg Upper Control Arms
fine, add limit straps for above reason.

Total Chaos 1" Differential Drop Spacer
waste of time and $

Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings
Energy suspension are only $13 from www.suspension.com, don't know about these

need to find high-angle cv boot kit(trd, downey, cv unlimited?)
CV Unlimited kits are $50/axle. I have these boots on my CVU axles and they are great. Downey's kits are around $45. We are now not sure about the Tacoma '04 boots being an actual 'high-angle' design or not.

Considering 1-1.5" coil spacers (daystar or cornfed?)
no can do. you can't stack spacers on the Donahoes or any other adjustables as it screws up the suspension geometry and you'll grenade your CVs and upper and lower ball joints.

Rear Suspension: 3 options

Deaver 7 leaf pack(2" of lift, maybe a little less because of the camper shell)
Downey heavy duty shackles (1.5" of lift I think)
go with Alcans, Deaver are just not designed to handle the weight AND maintain lift; they are made for flex.
Deaver may have a custom application, however, so you should check with them direct. http://www.alcanspring.com/ http://www.desertcommunication.net/deaverspring.html

1.
I have heard that you can run the Bilstein 7100 10" short body shock valved at 255/70 without having to weld new shock mounts and just having to replace bushings or something like that. Is it true that you can put 7100s without having to change the shock mounts and would these ride better then the 5100s which are on backorder and the 5150s which I have heard both good and bad things about so I am not to sure about them.
the Taco uses 3/4" rear shock bushings and most aftermarket shocks ship with 5/8" so you have to swap them. Some distributors will do this for you so ask. The 7100s look to be good but don't come in the two different sizes you'll need to add them to your stock mounts (the pass side shock is 1" longer than the dr side) If you go with these request the lighter valving available and not the 255/70.
to run the 5150s you'll need 4-4.5" of lift with overload springs in your leafpks or the 10" and 11.5" shocks will bottom out. you will also need to extend your bump-stops. Unfortunatly Bistein doesn't make a 9" in that model.
http://www.camburg.com/ http://www.xtremeoff-road.com/home.htm http://www.fj60.com/ http://demello-offroad.com/catalog/ http://www.wheelersoffroad.com


2. I spend the $400 on Demello's rear rock crawler shock relocation and get the short body 12" 7100s and I learn how to weld or I find someone who can do it relatively cheap. Does anyone run this setup, how well does it run and how hard is it to install.
this will enable you to use whatever shock you want as they will be equal lenghs. have someone who really knows how to weld do the install.
to figure needed shock length: http://www.bajataco.com/travel-measurement.html
shock 'relocate' mod: http://forums.delphiforums.com/tacomaterritory/messages?msg=106362.41 Other shock info: http://www.4x4review.com/feature/shock-genius.asp


3. I figure out how or have someone else weld custom mounts for me. I wait until the 5100s are back in stock(Could be a month or two). Are there other/better options you can think of?
the 5100s are good shocks, period

Here are a couple more questions:

Should I get the coil spacers? NO I do not want my 33s to rub Then you'll need more lift, period. and I think I am going to put the Downey HD shackles which add 1.5" of lift in the back. With the deaver 7 leaf pack adding about 2" I should have between 3-3.5" of lift in the back with the camper shell correct? No, that will get you 3-3.5" WITHOUT the shell. Would you set the Donahoe coilovers at 2" or 2.5" (see above) and should I add either 1" or a 1.5" coil spacers to the front to get the 3-3.5" of lift in the front? (see above) Or would you not use the downey shackles or the coil spacers and have the tires rub or do a mod? I think the cornfed spacers sound nicer then the daystar ones, what is your opinion? Are the coil spacers going to make the handling much worse, increase cv breakage, raise the center of gravity making the vehicle more unstable or just be the overall weak point on the vehicle? To completly clear those tires your center of gravity will go up regardless of what lift you choose. So, yes, stability will be effected and you'll just have to re-learn how to drive your truck like the rest of us have.

I have been hearing that I should get a high-angle cv boot kit. I have heard that trd, downey and cv unlimited all make them for the tacoma, but I can't find a high angle cv boot kit anywhere. Could someone please give me a little more information on this? See above

I am looking at the ProComp Mud Terrain 33/12.50 tires on Mickey Thompson classic simulated beadlock 16/8 rims. Are these the correct size rims and are these nice rims to get? Any other suggestions on tires and rims would be greatly appreciated. Also, how quickly will these kind of tires wear out on the road? As suggested by others; get the BFG AT KOs for a better overall tire. backspacing of 3 5/8" to 3.75" for that size tire/rim.

When I order these parts what other parts do I/should I order at the same time? I am going to get atleast a extended break line. Anything else?
yes, you will need a 24" extended brake line for the rear regardless of what lift you go with. you will also need a BPV (brake proportioning valve) extension bracket. depending on what you want to do with your exahaust you will either need to cut the pipe off in the rear (http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/sawzall mod.jpg) or make an extension bracket to drop it down to clear the springs. this mod is also recommended: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/tacoma_shocks/

Thank you for you help. I know there are a quite a few questions. I really didn't realize I still had so many.

I really don't know what else we can say to you. good luck.

 

[Super Doody]

I have a 2000 Tacoma 4x4 TRD stock w/SNUGTOP camper shell. I want to be able to run 33/12.50 ProComp Mud Terrains without any rubbing and hopefully without having to do a pinch weld mod or whatever. This is my daily driving vehicle so it needs to handle well on paved roads and the highway, but I want it to be a very capable 4x4 for off-roading in the mountains of northern california. I am just trying to finalize the exact parts I am going to need and have a couple more questions. Here are my plans:

Front Suspension:

Extended Travel Donahoe Coilovers
Camburg Upper Control Arms
Total Chaos 1" Differential Drop Spacer
Total Chaos Steering Rack Bushings
need to find high-angle cv boot kit(trd, downey, cv unlimited?)
Considering 1-1.5" coil spacers (daystar or cornfed?)

Rear Suspension: 3 options

Deaver 7 leaf pack(2" of lift, maybe a little less because of the camper shell)
Downey heavy duty shackles (1.5" of lift I think)

1.
I have heard that you can run the Bilstein 7100 10" short body shock valved at 255/70 without having to weld new shock mounts and just having to replace bushings or something like that. Is it true that you can put 7100s without having to change the shock mounts and would these ride better then the 5100s which are on backorder and the 5150s which I have heard both good and bad things about so I am not to sure about them.

2. I spend the $400 on Demello's rear rock crawler shock relocation and get the short body 12" 7100s and I learn how to weld or I find someone who can do it relatively cheap. Does anyone run this setup, how well does it run and how hard is it to install.

3. I figure out how or have someone else weld custom mounts for me. I wait until the 5100s are back in stock(Could be a month or two). Are there other/better options you can think of?

Here are a couple more questions:

Should I get the coil spacers? I do not want my 33s to rub and I think I am going to put the Downey HD shackles which add 1.5" of lift in the back. With the deaver 7 leaf pack adding about 2" I should have between 3-3.5" of lift in the back with the camper shell correct? Would you set the Donahoe coilovers at 2" or 2.5" and should I add either 1" or a 1.5" coil spacers to the front to get the 3-3.5" of lift in the front? Or would you not use the downey shackles or the coil spacers and have the tires rub or do a mod? I think the cornfed spacers sound nicer then the daystar ones, what is your opinion? Are the coil spacers going to make the handling much worse, increase cv breakage, raise the center of gravity making the vehicle more unstable or just be the overall weak point on the vehicle?

I have been hearing that I should get a high-angle cv boot kit. I have heard that trd, downey and cv unlimited all make them for the tacoma, but I can't find a high angle cv boot kit anywhere. Could someone please give me a little more information on this?

I am looking at the ProComp Mud Terrain 33/12.50 tires on Mickey Thompson classic simulated beadlock 16/8 rims. Are these the correct size rims and are these nice rims to get? Any other suggestions on tires and rims would be greatly appreciated. Also, how quickly will these kind of tires wear out on the road?

When I order these parts what other parts do I/should I order at the same time? I am going to get atleast a extended break line. Anything else?

Thank you for you help. I know there are a quite a few questions. I really didn't realize I still had so many.

What rear suspension setup did you go with?