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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for any advise. I'm getting about 13" of travel but I can't seem to work out the last bit of bump-steer at full droop





















This things gonna get plated like crazy

 

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Nice work
 

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they would both work. ive got my valving set up great . i havent bottomed out yet in my truck in the front and ive hit a few big dips and jumps
 

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Discussion Starter #11
more pics

I didn't touch the wheel you can see the bump-steer


droop




Ride height




bump


 

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I didn't touch the wheel you can see the bump-steer
If you can lift the lower uni a little like 1/4-1/2" it will probably eliminate the bumpsteer on droop (hard to say for sure without all the correct dimensions). Or if its easier put washers on the tierod bj to space it down 1/4-1/2", tighten the nut so the bj doesnt wobble, and check it. If it works, then find out how hard it is to move the uni.

Thats damn good on bumpsteer though. MUCH better than bolt on kits for the last gen tacomas (shitty geometry from the factory).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
camburg lt. and the tires are great
Niiice do you get flat spots in the mornings?

If you can lift the lower uni a little like 1/4-1/2" it will probably eliminate the bumpsteer on droop (hard to say for sure without all the correct dimensions). Or if its easier put washers on the tierod bj to space it down 1/4-1/2", tighten the nut so the bj doesnt wobble, and check it. If it works, then find out how hard it is to move the uni.

Thats damn good on bumpsteer though. MUCH better than bolt on kits for the last gen tacomas (shitty geometry from the factory).
I had it about 3/8" higher before and it made a small change in bumpsteer at full droop about 1/16 of a wheel turn but it caused the the steering to bind on droop. I'll try messing with steering bj next. Thank for the tip
 

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i dont think ive ever had that problem. they are the hard compound tires. the soft compound tires i had before ore out faster and i ould get flat spots if the truck sat for a full day or longer
 

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looks like your getting it there, i wonder if dropping it down some more or moving the upper uniball forward decreasing positive caster (looks like you have a fiar amount dialed in) would get you in a better zone. but as said before it hard to guess with out being there.


is raising the steering rack an option? my assumtion is that you want your tierod on the same swing or close to it as the lower a arm
 

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Discussion Starter #17
looks like your getting it there, i wonder if dropping it down some more or moving the upper uniball forward decreasing positive caster
I think you mean negative caster I wanted a good amount because I was told negative caster is good for off road


my assumtion is that you want your tierod on the same swing or close to it as the lower a arm
Exactly
 

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lol it actually is positive caster when its sloped back like this /, and you do want a fair amount, buggys are running 7-9 degrees stockers are at .5 -1 so something in between, if you run it on the street you may want to dial in a little less
 

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Discussion Starter #19
lol it actually is positive caster when its sloped back like this /, and you do want a fair amount, buggys are running 7-9 degrees stockers are at .5 -1 so something in between, if you run it on the street you may want to dial in a little less
Thanks for the tip I was always told positive was forward
 
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