So my girlfriend didn't get the inverter option in her 2wd TRD fj. I told her I would install one for her and try to make it look as factory as possible while using an aftermarket inverter. She is a photographer and likes to charge her camera batteries and laptop while on the move, so nothing over 400w is necessary.
Here are some part #'s:
8553035060B0 SOCKET ASSY, POWER Outlet 90980-10797 Connector (connects to power outlet)
Molex WMLX-208 Terminals (goes inside the connector)
Leviton Black Snap-In Receptacle Outlet 15A 5-15 1374-1 This is the outlet that is going into the center console.
0100055000 Intellitec battery disconnect relay This is the latching relay needed if you are going to use a momentary button.
Part 1!:
I plan on running a 400w cpi475 cobra inverter that a purchased on ebay for $30 shipped. To keep the DC side short as possible the inverter is going to be mounted under the center console.
I got a 15ft 16 gauge Husky extension cord from home depot and plan on plugging one end into the inverter and splicing the other into the OEM receptacle that I purchased at Toyota. (I will provide all part# soon)
I then cut the end of the extension cord and ran it through the center console and toward the passenger side door.
I removed the passenger side cowl trim, front and rear passenger side door scuff. I then ran the cord through.
The rest is cake! There is no need to remove anymore trim. I just lifted the deck trim side panel and shoved the cord in there. I then shoved the rest of the cord through a small space under the back seats hinge. The cord then follows beside the passenger rear fender and right where the OEM receptacle would be.
I purchased the connector that connects the OEM receptacle. *terminals are not included. I found some at fry electronics, but they come with some connectors that I did not need.
After crimping the terminals onto the three wires I inserted them into the connector. Black goes to the small hole, white goes the longer hole and green goes to ground. Don't forget to put heat shrink before you add the connector :lmao:.
Now I just plugged it into the rear OEM outlet.
I wanted to add another receptacle in the front of the fj, so I purchased some from ebay.
Just got this switch off ebay. Next on the list is figuring out what the 5 wires coming out of the switch are for. Then its time for relay and harness!
Just got this switch off ebay. Next on the list is figuring out what the 5 wires coming out of the switch are for. Then its time for relay and harness!
Basically you would just use three of them, power to the switch (B), power to the invertor from the switch (E) and power indication from the invertor (IND), looks like power indication from the invertor is in the form of a ground to illuminate the indicator lamp using ignition power. If your invertor doesnt have this, use the power from the invertor to juice a relay completing a ground circuit
Basically you would just use three of them, power to the switch (B), power to the invertor from the switch (E) and power indication from the invertor (IND), looks like power indication from the invertor is in the form of a ground to illuminate the indicator lamp using ignition power. If your invertor doesnt have this, use the power from the invertor to juice a relay completing a ground circuit
That's a clean install. Good work. I have thought about doing this but didn't want the headache. It would make tuning the FTC a lot easier without having to stop and take beer breaks every thirty minutes to charge laptop battery.
That's a clean install. Good work. I have thought about doing this but didn't want the headache. It would make tuning the FTC a lot easier without having to stop and take beer breaks every thirty minutes to charge laptop battery.
:lmao: Well you don't have to go through the headache to do this exact mod, but you can buy an inverter that plugs into the cigarette outlet. I just didn't want the clutter.
Looks like finding a relay is harder than I thought. Oh and I had an error in my calculations :lmao:. I have been calculating for a 400w inverter, but forgot that it has a peak of 800w. Of course it is only able to do this for a moment.
So..
Remember
volts * amps = watts
On the DC side we only get 12v and we are using a 800w inverter (at peak).
12v * amps = 800w
amps = 66.66
On the AC side we get 110v using a 800w inverter (at peak).
110v * amps = 800w
amps = 7.27
Now that I know the amps I can choose a fuse and relay rated at 66 amps or above. So I would use a 70 amp or what toyota uses 80 amp relay and fuse.
So I found a latching battery isolator or battery disconnect relay for an rv. This will work with my momentary switch (i hope :lmao. Therefore I am scratching the other dual relay ideas and such.
It is made by Intellitec and is rated at 100 amps. The latch is activated by a 12v+ pulse.
Sorry I haven't been able to finish this project because school started and I also ran into a problem that I couldn't figure out. So after reading the instructions:
THE RELAY - How it Works
The Battery Disconnect Relay is a mechanically latching switch that operates by the momentary application of battery voltage to the coil terminals in one direction for latching (closed) or the other direction for unlatching (open).
To close the relay, +12 volts is applied to the ""I"" terminal and ground the ""S"" terminal of the relay. When this is done, the plunger is pulled into the coil and the contacts are connected. While this happens, the rod magnet suspended above the plunger is attracted (opposite poles attract) to the top of the plunger by the magnetic field.
When the voltage is removed from the coil, the plunger gets pushed upward by the return spring, but cannot move because the rod magnet is in the way.
To open the relay, +12 volts is applied to the ""S"" terminal and ground on the ""I"" terminal. When this is done, the plunger is again pulled into the coil. However, since the magnetic polarity of the coil is reversed, the rod is repelled (like poles oppose), and swings out of the way.
When the voltage is removed from the coil, the plunger gets pushed upwards by the return spring, breaking the connection between the two large terminals.
I learned that it was indeed a momentary relay, but far more complicated then pressing on then off to latch and unlatch. There are 2 terminals, "S" and "i". When 12v goes to "S" it opens the latch. When 12v goes to "i" it closes. So I can't use the stock switch. I am about to give up on using the stock switch.
It should be possible to disassemble the stock switch and remove the 'rocking' piece of plastic that makes the switch latching ON-OFF; after removing this you would have a momentary switch; find an alternating relay; wire it such that it switches polarity. You should be 99% the way there at that point!
On second thought, find a 'continuous duty' solenoid, that would work a lot easier for you with the stock switch, although it does suck up a bit of current while on, but wouldn't require another relay to switch your solenoid on and off.
Been awhile since I have been here, traded my 01 reg cab of 15 years and 280K which I put 270K on for an 11 FJ. I do wish I could have kept it, but needed the 2K trade in. It was a fun truck to drive. I hope it went to a good home. Any ways the FJ is AAAWWWWSOMMME. Getting on in years and the FJ...
Long time wheeler but sold my toy and now I'm looking at something new to me. I'm wondering what everyones long term opinions are of the FJ. My last truck had the 3.4 and it never gave me an issue with 150k very hard miles. 20 something trips to glamis with a supercharger and it's still fine...
alright, we have a thread like this for 05+ tacos, pre 05 tacos, landcruisers, and prerunners. now we need one for the fjc. so show em if you got em. id like to see all the different lift, tire and armor combos people have put on their fj's and im sure everyone thats still in the planning stages...
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