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Discussion Starter #1
whats the consensus for fluid maint. on toyotas?

i have a 98 Runner. 107k.

wondering if i need to change the front/rear axle fluid, t-case fluid, and tranny fluid/filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
wow, every 30k? that seems VERY often to me... both of my other cars are 60-100k. gonna be a very expensive vehicle to own if i change all those fluids every 30k.

i know it was $150 to change diffs/x-case/tranny on my VX at 100k.
 

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Only if you pay someone to do it:cool:

You can get away without changing them for way longer, but if you are wheeling/doing other mods and maintenance it will happen more often than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cool cool.
actually $150 was just fluids :rolleyes:
Mobil1 full synthetic. best stuff i could find basically.
 

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wow, every 30k? that seems VERY often to me... both of my other cars are 60-100k. gonna be a very expensive vehicle to own if i change all those fluids every 30k.

i know it was $150 to change diffs/x-case/tranny on my VX at 100k.
Keep in mind, if you're wheeling EVERYTHING needs to be changed more often.

I change my rear diff fluid at least monthly (but that's also due to a cracked axle tube I've been too lazy to fix), and motor oil every 3-4k. The axle tube is cracked on both sides under the spring perches from extreme amounts of axle wrap, I'm holding out on doing it only because I'm upgrading the rear axle housing soon and don't want to put the time, money, or effort into it.


I would change all of it now just so you can start your own intervals and can judge when everything needs to be changed again.

Your tranny, t-case, and both diffs will take a standard 75-90 (which can be had for as little as $2.99 a quart) and IIRC: your rear diff will take 2.2, front 1.2, t-case and tranny will hold a smidgen over 4 combined; i'm not 100% on this but pretty sure it's accurate.

If you're wheeling often I would suggest doing all of it at least once a year (twice would be ideal). Either at the end of the heavy wheeling season, or just before the heavy wheeling season starts. Personally I do my tranny/tcase every april before the heavy stuff starts up again.

What I'm beginning to find is that synthetics run too thin and cause too many issues. I ran synthetics throughout my race car and started having problems with blow by on the rings, grinding in the tranny, etc. Went back to a basic 10w30 (cant go wrong with castrol, but it's all the same garbage from the same plant) and all those problems went away. Also experienced something similar in my truck with the rear diff. The one time i ran synthetic in it, it howled like crazy so i promptly went back to the basic 75-90 and it hasn't done it since.

Save your $$$, the basic stuff works just fine, especially if you're up to date and on time with your changes.
 

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cool cool.
actually $150 was just fluids :rolleyes:
Mobil1 full synthetic. best stuff i could find basically.
Many have found that the synthetics tend to leak in the toyota rear axle. and many have poor shifting in the manual trannies with it. If you change the fluids when they need it, dino oil is plenty good.
 

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Being a 4Runner, I'm sure it's an automatic tranny, so the shifting thing isn't such a big deal... if you have a manual, you definitely want to run a GL4 in the tranny. It's rated for GL4/GL5, but usually, the oils rated 4/5 or 5 are too slick for the synchros to work well.

I run dino in the motor and diffs because it gets changed pretty frequently, Redline MT90 in the tranny and Redline heavy shockproof in the tcase because they don't.
 

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i seem to have the only taco axle that doesnt leak with synthetic in it. but I usually change my diffs once a year, engine every 3k, and tranny is self draining so i fill it whenever it needs it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
hmm. very interesting. thanks for the great advice guys.

in the Vehicross world everyone runs synthetics because the motors have lots of problems with oil. so you have to use top-of-the-line, name brand stuff.
its good to know that standard oil will suffice on our vehicles and make my experience slightly cheaper.
part of the reason for the expense for the VX fluid changes was 10q of oil for the tranny flush.
i still have tons of fluid left over that will be getting changed into the runner (yeti) before moab for sure, so ill be stylin and safe :cool:

look forward to wheeling with the toyota guys asap!

oh- and for the record its a manual ;)
 

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You don't need to flush the transmission as often as it sounds like you did with the VX. On my truck (Tundra), it's a 4qt drain and fill at 30k, and a flush at 60k IIRC.

You can pick up a 5gal bucket of 75W90 in your choice of flavors, and a pump...makes diff fluid changes a lot easier, and cheaper.

Don't forget your power steering fluid. It's one of the more BTF fluids on our trucks, and has very little volume in the system. For our use, during wheeling season, it's something to inspect when you change the oil, & drain/fill the res or just flush the system. It doesn't take very long and it's not much fluid.

-Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #12
oh ok. got ya. i need to pick up a pump, because last time i used a long hose and a funnel to get it all in the axles/tranny/x-case.

i've never really flushed a power steering fluid system. where is the drain for it?
 

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There isn't one, you pull the return hose and put it in a bucket. Then start/stop the motor and add fluid untill it starts coming out of the return hose clean/new. I managed to make a mess when I did mine. There's writeup's out there showing the step by step...

I suggest at LEAST 2 people.
 

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Woah before you put Power stearing fluid in the PS pump, check if you need to be putting ATF in there. I know it sounds weird, but IIRC 4Runners need the ATF, and NOT PS fluid. Hopefully troy will chime in and correct me on that.
 

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Yup.

Also, you can flush it on your own by putting the front wheels in the air and just turning lock to lock. Don't forget to refill the reservoir now and then :D.

I just run an extension hose to a drain pan.
 
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