TTORA Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Frame Painting Process and Pictures With MasterSeries Paints

I Just finished painting my entire frame(again). I'd previously stripped and painted the most of the frame this past summer(without taking the bed off though), but made the mistake of using what Rustoleum calls "their best anti-rust paint". Turns out that paint I used the first time was total crap, because it was already starting to bubble up in many areas after only 5 months and none of those months were winter-salt months.

So I ordered some MasterSeries paints to do the whole thing over again the right way. Here is the stuff I bought, grand total of $70 for a frame painters kit shipped to my door:

http://www.nomorerust.com/
http://www.masterseriesct.com/

Painting with these paints is a multistep process.

1) First you obviously have to prepare the surface to be painted(somewhat) by sanding it down to get off any loose rust and chipping or bubbled paint. I did this by removing my bed and going over the entire frame and gas tank with an 11000 RPM angle grinder and a few different types of wire wheels as well as some assorted sized wire brushes and various blunt metal pick type tools and then going over the metal with some metal prep stuff that I bought.

2) Once the entire frame and my sidesteps were sanded down to bare metal, I applied 2 coats of the "MasterSeries Silver Rust Sealer/Primer Surfacer" product by brushing it on with disposable paintbrushes. This stuff dries to a silver finish and is like POR-15, in that you can paint right over rust and it is supposed to turn it into a hard metal-like surface that will no longer rust and is completely cut off from oxygen. If you get any of this stuff on your hands or other unwanted surfaces and it dries, it will not come off on its own until the skin exfoliates(got some on my hands, and it's been there most of the week). You're supposed to let this stuff dry on the metal for between 6 and 72 hours before topcoating it with finish(they recommend no longer than 72 hours because paint won't adhere to it well after that).

3) Once the silver primer rust sealant layers were dried(I let it dry for about 65 hours), I painted over it with the "MasterSeries AG 111 High Performance Finish Paint" which consists of 2 different components that need to be mixed together in a 2:1 ratio and also thinned by 10-15% before applying. This stuff offers strong protection as an anti-chemical coating(acetone, gasoline, salt, etc) and also dries to a black semi-glossy finish. I brushed on 2 coats of this to all areas that had been primed with the silver stuff from step 2, which included:

-Entire Frame and all crossmembers including transmission mount and spare tire rack
-Gas Tank and the skid plates
-All metal fuel lines and brake lines
-Inside of rear bumper
-All parts that make up the structure of the underside of the bed and any part of it where 2 different pieces of metal were welded or bolted together and looks like it might rust or was already starting to rust(did not paint the majority of the sheet metal that makes up the bottom of the bed though)
-Exhaust hangers
-My cheesy piece of crap side-rails that rust like crazy

Overall it was quite a time and energy consuming chore(30+ hours) but hopefully this MasterSeries stuff proves to be infinitely better than shitty Spray-on Rustoleum that I used the first time.

Here's a few pictures of the finished product.. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of the intermediate steps of stripping and priming becuase daylight is too damn limited this time of year:























 

·
Registered
Joined
·
391 Posts
nice job. i have to do this to the truck one of these days i have been putting it off too long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
It's really blue where you live! :xdevil:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Chadman said:
NICE! I've been dreaming of doing a body off frame paint dealio. Why did you go with Masterseries instead of POR15? Just wondering

I did some research before deciding on MasterSeries, and a lot of people said they had negative experiences with POR-15 and claimed that it didn't turn out to be all that it was cracked up to. The government supposedly used this MasterSeries paint a few bridges that go over canals and stuff and all the feedback that I found about it seemed to indicate that it works well. The MasterSeries is also not UV-sensitive like the POR-15 is, so if you go thin on your black topcoat, or just decide not to put the topcoat on... you won't have any issues with UV Light breaking down the paint material.

I can't yet vouch for how well this stuff will work to guard against salt just yet, since I just put it on a few weeks ago and it hasn't had sufficient exposure to the harsh winter elements yet.... but I'll let you know as the winter proceeds how it holds up. My truck is covered in salt right now because we got snow a week and a half ago and the DPW went supercrazy plastering ungodly amounts of salt all over our roads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Nashvegas Yota said:
Hey, how do you like those Revo's you have on there? They any good off the hardtop?

So far I freakin love my Revos. They ride really smooth and handle awesome on road. I drove them in about 2 inches of snow last week and they were infinitely better than my old Bridgestone Dueler HT's were in that same kind of stuff... cutting through the slop with ease and not clogging up in the treads. We haven't had enough heavy snow yet since I bought the tires for me to say how they are in deep snow of a foot or more. I've probably been most impressed by their hydroplaning resistance in heavy rain. Granted, I don't really drive my truck like a Busch Series Truck... but still they easily outperform any tire that I've ever owned in heavy rain, and I've driven them through some real crazy rainstorms and deep puddles on the streets too.

My offroading exposure with them has been limited to just loose dirt, some 5 or 6 inch water puddles in grass(not muddy) and a some fields littered with tall grass of like 3 or 4 feet and a few rocks no taller than 7 or 8 inches in height, so I can't offer much in the way of input about how they are with serious offroading or grip on big rocks.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top