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Discussion Starter #1
How do I adjust these? Im guessing its easier to jack up the vehicle first and then adjust the torsion bar adjustment bolts but ive never done this before.

Any pointers?
 

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navyseals101 said:
How do I adjust these? Im guessing its easier to jack up the vehicle first and then adjust the torsion bar adjustment bolts but ive never done this before.

Any pointers?
Yes jack up vehicle and support w/ jackstands with wheels just off ground. There are two nuts on top of torsion bolt, One is locknut and needs to be backed off so u can adjust. I always make sure the threads are clean and a little grease/oil will help. Bolts can be stripped/seize easily so may be good idea to get some new bolts and nuts from yota dealer. Count turns u adjust on one side so u can do same on other side. If cranking stock torsion bars a lot for lift might think bout gettin some new heavier duty torsion bars. Sway-away / downey off-road. Set usually $100 - 150. Downey's are a tad softer. If u get new ones, bars are marked on end for left/right. If they are put in wrong side they will sag out and weaken. Grease splines and put boots on. Make sure torsion key is centered in its slot or it may bind on sides when cranked. This is all on 2wd. Think 4wd are same except front of torsion bar is at upper arm instead of lower. Enjoy.

Or, yea just read that other thread. Beat me to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I like your ride happy it looks good, Your saying adjusting my torsion bars to raise the front end of my vehicle will make the ride stiffer? Cause its allready pretty stiff I thought it could make it better

hows it make it worse?

Whats the purpose if it makes it worse? (im assuming to even both ends of the vehicles suspension)
 

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navyseals101 said:
I like your ride happy it looks good, Your saying adjusting my torsion bars to raise the front end of my vehicle will make the ride stiffer? Cause its allready pretty stiff I thought it could make it better

hows it make it worse?

Whats the purpose if it makes it worse? (im assuming to even both ends of the vehicles suspension)
By cranking the t-bars you are preloading them, or making them stronger..in a sence.. so it will take more force to move them, which is why the truck sits higher. But makes it much stiffer, the higher you go the stiffer it gets.

Most people crank their tbars because they beleive it makes more room for tires, which it doesnt. Some crank to level, but like I said it makes it stiffer.
 

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navyseals101 said:
I like your ride happy it looks good, Your saying adjusting my torsion bars to raise the front end of my vehicle will make the ride stiffer? Cause its allready pretty stiff I thought it could make it better

hows it make it worse?

Whats the purpose if it makes it worse? (im assuming to even both ends of the vehicles suspension)
Thanks, wanna buy it, ha ha. Yeah adjusting torsion bars will adjust ride height. If your looking for lift/leveled stance. Cranking stock bars can give you harder ride than heavier duty torsions that are cranked less. Its all in how they are clocked. There is a flat spline on either end that needs to line up and depending where it is this sets your ride height versus spring(torsion) tension. Aftermarket torsions are clocked differently to compensate for lift. Ride will be stiffer but torsions are stronger and better off-road. 2wd will need new upper arms (hint downey) and u can get some decent front travel with their mega travel upper ball joints. Yours a 4x4?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yeah ive got a 1989 4x4 ext cab with total chaos upfront im pretty sure my torsion bars are not stock but it says with the TC kit that it offers 2-3 inches of lift and it doesnt really look like the front end is lifted but im not sure
 

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Happysmiley said:
Aftermarket torsions are clocked differently to compensate for lift.
I have never seen that before... where did you get that info. My powerbarz arent clocked, nor do I think any of the other are. Clocking really does nothing for lift, except provide more adjustment, it still takes preload to get lift.
 

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ah64id said:
I have never seen that before... where did you get that info. My powerbarz arent clocked, nor do I think any of the other are. Clocking really does nothing for lift, except provide more adjustment, it still takes preload to get lift.
It depends where your starting point is when you start preloading the torsion bar. Have seen guys cut new flat splines maybe 2 splines over from stock so your starting with more angle on the control arms before you load the spring.

My 83 torsion keys and front arm spline mounts have no large(flat) spline like newer (84-95) torsion bars, so I could start with more angle before preloading so I still get ride height without really hard feeling springs. Yeah still need to preload spring but not as much.

**Might be using term "clocking" wrong, and might be wrong that aftermarket are clocked different than stock. Thought mine had just a lil more angle between the front and rear spline notches. I had bought a set of sway-aways that had the splines cut wrong. When I put them in the Left could only go on right side and vice versa. Called sway-away and they said they had cut a run of torsion bars with the wrong spline clocking. Sent them back and they sent me a set with two splines cut out on same end of bars, instead of just scrapping all those bars they cut wrong.
 

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navyseals101 said:
yeah ive got a 1989 4x4 ext cab with total chaos upfront im pretty sure my torsion bars are not stock but it says with the TC kit that it offers 2-3 inches of lift and it doesnt really look like the front end is lifted but im not sure
So u got Chaos long travel, that means your arms are longer and putting more leverage against torsion bars so u need heavier duty torsion bars, which it sounds like u have.

Just try cranking your torsion bars a little at a time and see how u like it. Simple, I should have just said that in the 1st place.
 

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Happysmiley said:
It depends where your starting point is when you start preloading the torsion bar. Have seen guys cut new flat splines maybe 2 splines over from stock so your starting with more angle on the control arms before you load the spring.

My 83 torsion keys and front arm spline mounts have no large(flat) spline like newer (84-95) torsion bars, so I could start with more angle before preloading so I still get ride height without really hard feeling springs. Yeah still need to preload spring but not as much.

I dont think thats correct, it takes so much twisted force on a torsion bar to get "x" amount of spring rate out of it, so it doesnt matter what position you have it placed in the bar or mount. By clocking all you do is allow more adjustment before you run out of adjusting threads.
 

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ah64id said:
I dont think thats correct, it takes so much twisted force on a torsion bar to get "x" amount of spring rate out of it, so it doesnt matter what position you have it placed in the bar or mount. By clocking all you do is allow more adjustment before you run out of adjusting threads.
Yeah now im confusing myself. I do know that when i let off on the tosion bars a lil' they feel softer, and the more I crank on em the stiffer the ride gets(and better it resists sway/body-roll).

So it seems to me that spring rate increases or gets stiffer as the bars are cranked, so if u start with your a-arms at a steeper angle with no preload, then you don't have to crank as much preload in to get the desired ride height as you would if u started with the a-arms at less of an angle.

I swear i've tried this and to me it seems like a noticable difference in how stiff the springs feel and react to sway and body-roll depending on the clocking of your a-arm to the rear key.
 

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Also if the clocking isn't that important then why the change from no flat spline (79-83) to the notched spline bars (84-95) which force u to set clocking between a-arm key and rear adjusting key to the pre-determined factory setting.

Not trying to battle back and forth, I just think clocking does have an effect on spring rate vs. ride height. Any super-tech guys that can help?
 

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Happysmiley said:
Also if the clocking isn't that important then why the change from no flat spline (79-83) to the notched spline bars (84-95) which force u to set clocking between a-arm key and rear adjusting key to the pre-determined factory setting.

Not trying to battle back and forth, I just think clocking does have an effect on spring rate vs. ride height. Any super-tech guys that can help?
Okay, yeah I was thinking about it backwords.. I can see where clocking would gain lift w/out increasing spring rate.. had to think about it a little deeper.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
bump why is it going to effect the smoothness of the ride IF i adjust my torsion bars so the front of my vehicle sets up higher... I have dual bilstein 6100's shocks on each side so its very fucking stiff on the road
 

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navyseals101 said:
bump why is it going to effect the smoothness of the ride IF i adjust my torsion bars so the front of my vehicle sets up higher... I have dual bilstein 6100's shocks on each side so its very fucking stiff on the road
6100's are available with different valving options so it could be that the valving is way too stiff for the ride quality u are looking for. Cranking the t-bars shouldn't make the ride that much harder.

To experiment try running single shocks on each side and see how the ride feels then. You'll need shorter bolts through the shock eye mounts to run single's.

**I don't recommend this as a permanent solution cause you'll be putting un-even strain on the shock bolts and shock mounts.
 

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navyseals101 said:
bump why is it going to effect the smoothness of the ride IF i adjust my torsion bars so the front of my vehicle sets up higher... I have dual bilstein 6100's shocks on each side so its very fucking stiff on the road

Like I already said it increases the spring rate, which is how you get your truck to sit higher. Every little bit you go up will increase the stiffness. Been there done that... You wont gain anything but a stiffer ride.
 
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